=======================================================================
    DISCLAIMER:  Safe and effective food storage requires attention to
detail and proper equipment and ingredients.  The author makes no
warranties and assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions in the
text, or damages resulting from the use or misuse of information
contained herein.

    Placement of or access to this work on this or any other site does
not mean the author espouses or adopts any political, philosophical or
meta-physical concepts that may also be expressed wherever this work
appears.
========================================================================

PLEASE DIRECT CONTRIBUTIONS, COMMENTS, QUESTIONS AND/OR CRITICISMS TO:
                      athagan@sprintmail.com

Written material may be sent to the address below:

        A.T. Hagan
        P.O. Box 140008
        Gainesville, FL   32614-0008      
           
                           TABLE OF CONTENTS       
                                                   
0.   Acknowledgements, Foreword, and Table of Contents

I.   Shelf Lives:  Time, Temperature, Moisture, Oxygen and Light

II.  The Techniques of Food Storage

     A.  Grains and Legumes
          1.  Grain Varieties: about gluten, amaranth, barley,
              buckwheat, corn, millet, oats, quinoa,
              rice, rye, sorghum, triticale, and wheat.
          2.  Legume Varieties: black bean, black-eyed pea, chickpea,
              kidney bean, lentil, lima bean, peanut, pinto bean,
              and soybean. 
          3.  Types of Availability of Grains and Legumes
               - Moisture Content
               - Cleaning It Yourself
          4.  Storing Grains and Legumes

     B.  Dry Milks
          1.  Types of Dry Milks
               - Buying Dry Milk Products
          2.  Storing Dry Milks
               - Shelf Life of Dry Milks

     C.  Canned Goods
          1.  Canned Milk Types
               - Shelf Life of Canned Milks
          2.  Corrosion Prevention of Canned Goods

     D.  Sugar, Honey and Other Sweeteners 
          1.  Types of Granulated Sugars
               - Storing Granulated Sugars
          2.  Types of Honey
               - Buying Honey
               - Storing Honey
               - Raw Honey and Botulism
               - Honey Outgassing
          3.  Types of Cane Syrups
               - Storing Cane Syrups
          4.  Corn Syrup
          5.  Maple Syrup

     E.  Fats and Oils
          1.  Buying & Storing Oils and Fats
          2.  Extending Shelf Life By Adding Anti-Oxidants

     F.  Cooking Staples
          1.  Baking Powder
          2.  Baking Soda
          3.  Herbs & Spices
          4.  Salt
          5.  Vinegar
          6.  Yeast

     G.  Infant Formula

III. Spoilage

     A.  Insect Infestations
          1.  Pests of Stored Grains, Legumes and Dry Foodstuffs
          2.  Control of Insect Infestations

     B.  Molds In Foods
          1.  Minimizing Molds
          2.  Molds in Canned Goods
          3.  Molds in Grains and Legumes
               - Preventing Molds In Grains and Legumes

     C.  Bacterial Spoilage
          1.  Botulism
          2.  Other Bacterial Spoilers of Food

     D.  Enzymatic Action In Food Spoilage

IV.  Specific Equipment Questions

     A. Storage Containers
          1.  What is Food Grade Packaging?
               - Where Can I Find Food Grade Containers?
          2.  Plastic Packaging
               - How Do I Get the Odor Out of Pickle Buckets?
          3.  Metal Cans
               - Pooling Resources:  The Church Of Jesus Christ Of
                 Latter Day Saints
          4.  Glass Jars
          5.  Mylar Bags
               - How Do I Use Mylar Bags?
          6.  Reusing Or Recycling Packaging

     B. CO2 and Nitrogen
          1.  Dry Ice
               - Dry Ice Suppliers
          2.  Compressed Nitrogen
               - Types of Availability
               - Obtaining the Gas and Necessary Equipment
               - Putting It All Together
               - Putting It Into Use

     C. Oxygen Absorbers
          1.  What Is An Oxygen Absorber?
          2.  Where Can I Find Oxygen Absorbers?
          3.  How Are Oxygen Absorbers Used?

     D. Desiccants
          1.  What Is A Desiccant?
          2.  Types of Desiccants
               - Silica Gel
               - Clay Desiccant
               - Calcium Oxide
               - Calcium Sulfate
               - Other Desiccants
          3.  Where Do I Find Desiccants?
          4.  How Do I Use Desiccants?

     E. Diatomaceous Earth
          1.  What Is Diatomaceous Earth?
          2.  Where Can I Find DE and What Type Should I Buy?
          3.  How Do I Use DE In Food Storage?

V.   Shelf Lives

     A. "Best Used By", "Use By" and Other Food Product Dates

     B. Closed Dating Codes Used By Some Food Manufacturers

     C. Shelf Lives of Some Common Storage Foods

VI.  Resources

     A. Books

     B. Pamphlets

     C. Magazines

     D. Phone, voice, non-modem

     E. Electronic-online
          - Information sources
          - Software sources

     F. Organizations
          1. The Church Of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints
               - LDS Family Cannery Guidelines

     G. Food and Equipment Suppliers
          1  Mail Ordering Storage Foods What You Should Know
          2  Addresses of Suppliers.
               - Storage Food Manufacturers
               - Food Preservation Dealers & Suppliers
               - Food Storage & Preservation Equipment Manufacturers
               - Diatomaceous Earth Manufacturers & Dealers
               - Storage Food Retailers


=========================================================================
                                -- I --
      SHELF LIVES: TIME, TEMPERATURE, MOISTURE, OXYGEN AND LIGHT
=========================================================================
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Is your food insurance up to date?
     Since the entire idea of a food storage program is that it should
be available for "you and yours" in times of need, it is important to
understand the conditions that can affect the edibles stored in your
pantry.
     A storage program is only as good as the quality of the food that
goes into it.  It cannot get any better than what originally went in,
but it can certainly get worse.  In the fullness of time, all stored
foods will degrade in nutrient content and palatability until they reach
the inevitable end where even the dog won't eat them.  It's because of
this eventuality that every article, book, and teacher concerned with
putting food by gives the same advice: *Date all food containers and
rotate, Rotate, ROTATE.  The first food in should be the first food
out.* This concept is often shortened to the acronym FIFO.
     The reason for this emphasis on stock rotation is that when
discussing the usefulness of foodstuffs there are really two shelf lives
to be considered.  The first is the nutrient content of the food.  This
actually begins to fade at the moment of harvest.  Three factors dictate
nutritional shelf life:  The food's initial nutritional content; the
processing and preservation steps it underwent; and its storage
conditions.  Eventually the nutrition will dwindle away to nothing.  At
some point you will have to decide whether the remaining nutrition is
worth the space the food is taking up and if it should be rotated out of
storage.
     The second shelf life is a food's palatability life or the point at
which undesirable changes occur to its taste, texture, color and cooking
qualities.  This is the reason for the "use by" and "sell by" dates on
many foods and for shelve lives in general.  It will almost always be in
excess of good nutritive life.  If you don't have anything to replace it
with, it's not necessary to throw food out just because it's reached the
end of its best palatable storage life.  Do, however, keep in mind that
advancing age will only further decrease the useful nutrition, increase
the foods' unattractiveness and enlarge the chances that something may
cause the food to spoil.
     Within reason, the key to prolonging the shelf life of your edibles
lies in lowering the temperature of the area they are stored in.  The
storage lives of most foods are cut in half by every increase of 18 deg.
F (10 deg. Celsius).  For example, if you've stored your food in a
garage that has a temperature of 90 deg. F, you should expect a shelf
life less than half of what could be obtained at room temperature (70
deg. F) this in turn is less than half the storage life that you could
get if you kept them in your refrigerator at 40 deg. F.  Your storage
area should be located where the temperature can be kept above freezing
(32 deg. F) and, if possible, below 72 deg. F.
     Ideally, your storage location should have a humidity level of 15%
or less, but unless you live in the desert it's not terribly likely
you'll be able to achieve this.  Regardless, moisture is not good for
your stored edibles so you want to minimize it as much as possible.
This can be done by several methods.  The first is to keep the area
air-conditioned and/or dehumidified during the humid times of the year.
The second is to use packaging impervious to moisture and then to deal
with the moisture trapped inside.  If you are able, there's no reason
not to use both.
     All containers should be kept off the floor and out of direct
contact from exterior walls to reduce the chances of condensation.
     Another major threat to your food is oxygen.  Chances are that if
you have it sealed in moisture-proof containers then they are probably
air-tight as well.  This means that the oxygen can also be kept from
doing its damage.  If no more can get in, your only concern is the O2
that was trapped in the container when it was sealed.  Lowering the
percentage of O2 to 2% or less of the atmosphere trapped in the
packaging (called head gas) can greatly contribute to extending its
contents shelf life.  The three main tactics for achieving this are
vacuum sealing, flushing with inert gas or chemically absorbing the
oxygen.  Any one or a combination of the three can be used to good
effect.
     Once you have temperature, humidity and oxygen under control, it is
then necessary to look at light.  Light is a form of energy and when it
shines on your stored foods long enough it transfers some of that energy
to the food.  This has the effect of degrading its nutritional content
and appearance.  Fat soluble vitamins, such as A, D and E are
particularly sensitive to light degradation.  It certainly is a pretty
sight to look at rows and rows of jars full of delicious food,
particularly if you were the one that put the food in those jars.
However, if you want to keep them at their best, you'll admire them only
when you turn the light on in the pantry to retrieve one.  If you don't
have a room that can be dedicated to this purpose then store the jars in
the cardboard box they came in.  This will protect them not only from
light, but help to cushion them from shocks which might break a jar or
cause it to lose its seal.  For those of you in earthquake country, it's
a particularly good idea.  When "terra" is no longer "firma" your jars
just might dance right off onto the floor.
     Assuming they were properly processed in the first place, canned,
dried and frozen (never thawed) foods do not become unsafe when stored
longer than the recommended time, but their nutrient quality fades and
their flavor goes downhill.  Following these rules of good storage will
keep your food wholesome and nutritious for as long as possible:

     #1 - First In, First Out (FIFO) means rotating your storage
     #2 - Cooler is better
     #3 - Drier is better
     #4 - Less oxygen exposure means more shelf life.
     #5 - Don't shed light on your food.

     Think of rotating your food storage as paying your food insurance
premiums -- slacking off on rotation cuts back on your coverage.  Is
your food insurance up to date?
                                         

=========================================================================
                                -- II --
                     THE TECHNIQUES OF FOOD STORAGE
=========================================================================
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]
                                        
     In this section will be covered a number of foods that are
particularly suited to being included in storage programs along with the
various forms they can be found in and specific tips for a number of
different food categories.

A. GRAINS AND LEGUMES

     A.1 GRAIN VARIETIES

     One of the most important decisions in planning a food storage
program is what kinds of grains to include, but many people do not give
this adequate thought.  Some just buy however much wheat or corn or rice
they think is necessary to meet their needs and leave it at that.
Others rely on pre-packaged decisions made for them by their storage
food retailer who put together a "year's supply of food" to buy all at
once.  Either decision could be a major mistake.
     There are a number of food storage plans one may use as a guide.
Many are based on the so-called "Mormon Four" of wheat, milk, honey and
salt, with as many additional foods as the planner found to be
desirable.  When it was created in 1937, this plan may have been OK, but
we've learned a great deal since then.  An unfortunate number of people
in our society develop allergies to one kind of food or another.  One of
the more common food allergens is wheat.  Even more unfortunate is the
fact that many people who have an allergy to wheat don't even know it.
They won't become aware of it until they try to live with wheat as a
large part of their diet.  For this reason you should store what you eat
and eat what you store, so that ugly surprises such as this don't come
up when it's too late to easily avoid them.
     A second reason to think about storing a selection of different
grains is appetite fatigue.  There are those who think providing variety
in the diet is relatively unimportant and that if and when the time
comes they'll eat what they've got and that will be that.  For healthy,
well-adjusted adults under ordinary circumstances this might be possible
without too much difficulty.  However, the entire reason for having a
food storage program is for when circumstances aren't ordinary.  Times
of crisis produce stress -- possibly physical, but always mental.  If
you are suddenly forced to eat a diet both alien and monotonous, it is
going to add just that much more stress on top of what you are already
dealing with.  If your planning includes the elderly, young children
and/or infants they might just quit eating or refuse to eat sufficient
amounts and become unable to survive.  This is not a trivial problem and
should be given serious consideration.  Consider the positive aspects of
adding some comfort foods.
     In his book, *Making the Best of Basics*, James Stevens mentions a
post-WWII study by Dr. Norman Wright, of the British Food Ministry,
which found that people in England and Europe were more likely to reject
unfamiliar or distasteful foods during times of stress than under normal
conditions.  When it's wheat, day in and day out, wheat's going to start
becoming distasteful fast. Far better to have a variety of foods on hand
to forestall appetite fatigue and, more importantly, to use those
storable foods in your everyday diet so that you'll be accustomed to
them.
     [If anyone knows where I may find an actual copy of the study by
Dr. Wright, I'd appreciate it if you'd point me to it.  Thanks- ed.]

     ABOUT GLUTEN:  As you read through the grains descriptions below
you will come across frequent mention of "gluten".  Gluten is the
protein in grains that enables the dough made from them to trap the
gasses produced by yeast fermentation or chemical reaction of baking
powder or soda and in turn causes it to rise.  The amount of this protein
to be found in species of grains and varieties within a species can vary
radically.  Some grains such as rice have virtually no gluten at all and
will not produce a raised loaf by itself while others like hard winter
wheat have a great deal and makes excellent raised bread.  Whether
gluten content is of importance to you will depend upon the end uses you
intend for your grain.
     Some of the common and relatively uncommon types of grains and
their varieties are listed below.


    AMARANTH: Amaranth is not a true cereal grain at all, but is a
              relative of the pigweeds and the ornamental flowers we
call "cockscomb".  It's grown not only for its seed, but for its leaves
that can be cooked and eaten as greens.  The seed is high in protein,
particularly the amino acid lysine which is limited in the true cereal
grains.  It can be milled as-is, or toasted to provide more flavor.  The
flour lacks gluten, so it's not suited for raised breads, but can be
made into any of a number of flat breads.  Some varieties can be popped
much like popcorn, or can be boiled and eaten as a cereal, used in
soups, granolas, and the like.  Toasted or untoasted, it blends well
with other grain flours.


    BARLEY:   Barley is thought by some to be the first grain ever grown
              by man.  It has short, stubby kernels with a hull that is
difficult to remove.  Excluding barley intended for malting or animal
feed, most of this grain is consumed by humans in two forms.  Most
common is the white, highly processed "pearl barley" with much of its
bran and germ milled off along with its hull.  It is the least
nutritious form of barley.  The second offering is called "pot" or
"hulled barley" and it has been subjected to the same milling process as
pearled, but with fewer trips through the polisher.  Because of this, it
retains more of the nutritious germ and bran.  Unless you are prepared
to try to get the hulls off I don't recommend buying unhulled barley.
Although it can be milled into flour, its low gluten content will not
make a good loaf of raised bread.  It can be combined with other flours
that do have sufficient gluten to make leavened bread or used in flat
breads.  Barley flour and flakes have a light nutty flavor that is
enhanced by toasting.  Whole barley is commonly used to add thickness to
soups and stews.
     Recently, a hull-less form has become available on the market
through a few suppliers.  This is whole grain barley with all of its
bran and germ intact and should have the most nutrients of any form of
this grain available.  I have not yet been able to discover yet how
suitable it is for long term storage.


    BUCKWHEAT:     Buckwheat is another of those seeds commonly considered
                   to be a grain, but which is not a true cereal.  It is
a close relative to the docks and sorrels.  The "grain" itself is a
dark, three cornered seed resembling a tiny beechnut.  It has a hard,
fibrous hull requiring a special buckwheat huller to remove it.  Here in
the U.S., it is most often used in pancakes, biscuits and muffins.  In
Eastern Europe and Russia it is known in its toasted form as "kasha".
In the Far East, it's often made into "soba" or noodles.  It's also a
good bee plant, producing a dark, strongly flavored honey.  The flour is
light or dark depending on how much of the hull has been removed before
grinding.  Dark flour is much more strongly flavored than lighter flour,
but because of the high fiber and tannin content of its hull it is not
necessarily more nutritious.  Buckwheat is one of those foods with no
middle ground in peoples opinions -- they either love it or they hate
it.  Like amaranth, it's high in lysine, an amino acid commonly lacking
in the true cereal grains.


    CORN:     Corn is the most common grain crop in the U.S., but it is
   (maize)    mostly consumed indirectly as animal feed or even
              industrial feedstock rather than directly as food.  As one
of the "Three Sisters" (corn, squash and beans) it was the staple grain
of nearly all of the indigenous peoples of the American continents
before the advent of European colonization.  It comes in an amazing
variety of forms with some being better suited for a particular purpose
than others.  The varieties intended to be eaten as fresh, green corn
are very high in sugar content and do not dry or store well.  The other
varieties are the flint, dent, flour, and popcorns.  All of them keep
well when they have been properly dried.  To a certain extent, they're
all interchangeable for purposes of grinding into meal (sometimes known
as polenta meal) or flour (very finely ground corn, not cornstarch), but
some make better meal than flour and vice versa.
     As a general rule of thumb, the flint varieties make better meal as
they have a grittier texture than the other corns.  If meal, hominy and
hominy grits (commonly called just "grits") are what you are most
interested in, use the flint type.  If you intend to make corn masa for
tortillas and tamales, then the flour type is what you want, but it is
seldom found on the commercial market so the dent type is next best.
Popcorn is what you need if you want to pop it for snacks and it can
also be ground into meal or flour.  It seems to me it makes a very good
meal, but it's a bit gritty for flour.  It's also difficult to hull it
with alkali treatment.  Your mileage may vary.  Yellow dent corn seems
to be the most commonly available variety among storage food dealers and
will work fine for almost any purpose but popping.
     Popcorn is one form of a whole grain available to nearly everyone
in the U.S. if they know where to look.  It is so popular as a snack
food, particularly in movie theaters and events like fairs and ball
games, that even the smallest of towns will generally have at least one
business selling it in twenty-five or fifty pound bags.  Since it's
meant to be eaten it's safe for food.  To be at its most "poppable",
this corn needs to have a moisture content between 13.5%-15.5% which
makes it just a little too moist for ideal storage.  A small amount of
drying will need to be done before it's packed away.  If wanted for
popping later, it can always be re-hydrated by sprinkling a tablespoon
of water per quart of kernels, shaking vigorously and allowing it to be
absorbed for a day or two.  If you still get too many "old maids" or
unpopped kernels then repeat the process once more.  Popcorn is harder
than the other varieties of corn so if your mill is not of the heavy
duty sort you may want to consider cracking the popcorn into coarse
pieces first then grinding into finer textured meal.
     Once you've decided between flint, dent or popcorn, (the flour
types are difficult to find commercially) you now have to decide upon
it's color:  There are yellow, white, blue, & red dried varieties.  The
yellow and white types are the most common by far with the blues and
reds mostly being relegated to curiosities, though blue corn has been
gaining in popularity these last few years.  It should be kept in mind
that white corn does not have the carotene (converts into vitamin A)
content of yellow corn.  Since vitamin A is one of the major limiting
vitamins in long term food storage, any possible source of it should be
utilized.  For this reason I suggest storing yellow rather than white
corn.  Additionally, much of the niacin content of corn is chemically
bound up in a form not available for human nutrition unless it has been
treated with an alkali.  This is really of importance only if 85% or
more of your daily calorie intake will come from corn, but grits, hominy
or corn masa (for tortillas and tamales) are traditional uses for this
grain and can go a long way toward increasing the number of recipes you
can make with it.  Give them a try, they're really quite good.


    MILLET:   Millet is an important staple grain in North China and
              India, but is little known as a food in the U.S, where we
mostly use it as bird feed.  The grain kernels are very small, round,
and usually ivory colored or yellow, though some varieties are darker.
The lack of gluten and a rather bland flavor may account for the
anonymity of this grain but it has a more alkaline pH than other grains
and makes it very easy to digest.  It also has a higher iron content
than any other grain but amaranth.  It swells a great deal when cooked
and supplies more servings per pound than any other grains.  When cooked
like rice it makes an excellent breakfast cereal.  It has little gluten
of its own, but mixes well with other flours.


    OATS:     Though the Scots and the Irish have made an entire cuisine
              from oats, it is still mostly thought of in the U.S. as a
bland breakfast food.  Seldom found as a whole grain, it's usually sold
processed in one form or another.  Much like barley, oats are a
difficult grain to separate from their hulls.  Besides its longtime role
as a breakfast food, oats make an excellent thickener of soups and stews
and a filler in meat loafs and casseroles.  Probably the second most
common use for oats in America is in cookies and granolas.  A little
creative thought can really increase their culinary range.
     Listed below in order of desirability for storage are the forms of
oats found in this country.  Rolled and cut oats retain both their bran
and their germ.
     Oat groats: These are whole oats with the hulls removed.  They are
not often found in this form, but can sometimes be had from natural food
stores and some storage food dealers.  Oats are not the easiest thing to
get a consistent grind from so producing your own oat flour takes a bit
of experience.
     Steel cut oats:  Also known as Irish, pinhead or porridge (but so
are rolled) oats.  These are oat groats which have been cut into chunks
with steel blades.  They're not rolled and look like coarse bits of
grain.  This form can be found in both natural food stores (sometimes
much cheaper) and many supermarkets.

     Rolled oats:  These are also commonly called old fashioned, thick
cut or porridge oats.  To produce them, oat groats are steamed and then
rolled to flatten.  They can generally be found wherever oats are sold.
They take slightly longer to cook than do the quick cooking oats, but
they retain more flavor, texture and nutrition.  This is what most
people will call to mind when they think of oatmeal.

     Quick cooking rolled oats:  These are just steamed oat groats
rolled thinner than the old fashioned kind above so that they will cook
faster.  They can usually be found right next to the thicker rolled
oats.

     Instant rolled oats:  These are the "just add hot water" or
microwave type of oat cereals and are not particularly suited for a
storage program.  They do, however, have uses in "bug out" and 72 hour
food kits for short term crises.

     Whole oats:  This is with the hulls still on.  They are sold in
seed stores and sometimes straight from the farmer who grew them.
Unless you have some means of getting the hulls off, I don't recommend
buying oats in this form.  If you do buy from a seed supplier, make
certain that they have not been treated with any chemicals that are
toxic to humans.


    QUINOA:   Quinoa is yet another of the grains that is not a true
              cereal.  It's botanical name is Chenopodium quinoa
(pronounced "keen-wah"), and is a relative of the common weed
Lambsquarter.  The individual kernels are about 1.5-2 mm in size and are
shaped rather like small flattened spheres.  When quinoa is cooked, the
germ of the grain coils into a small "tail" that lends a pleasant
crunch.  This exotic grain should be thoroughly washed before cooking in
order to prevent it from tasting bitter.  There are several varieties of
quinoa that have color ranging from near white to a dark brown.  The
larger white varieties are considered superior and are the most common.


    RICE:     Rice is the most commonly consumed food grain in the
              world.  The U.S. is the leading exporter of it, though we
actually only produce about 1% of the global supply.  The majority of
the world's rice is eaten within five miles of where it was grown.
     Much like wheat and corn, rice comes in a number of varieties, each
with different characteristics.  They are typically divided into classes
by the length of their kernel grains; short, medium and long.
     Short grain rice:  The short grain variety is a little softer and
bit moister when it cooks and tends to stick together more than the
longer rices.  It has a sweeter, somewhat stronger flavor than long
grain rice.
     Medium grain rice:  The medium grain variety is not very common in
the States.  It has flavor like the short variety, but with a texture
more like long.
     Long grain rice:  The long grain variety cooks up into a drier,
flakier dish than the shorter types and the flavor tends to be blander.
It is the most commonly found size of rice on American grocery shelves.
     Each of the above may be processed into brown, white, parboiled or
converted and instant rice.  Below is a short discussion of the
differences between the various types.
     Brown rice:  This is whole grain rice with only the hull removed.
It retains all of the nutrition and has a pleasant nutty flavor.  From a
nutritional standpoint it is by far the best, but it has one flaw:  The
essential oil in the germ is very susceptible to oxidation and soon goes
rancid.  As a result, brown rice has a shelf life of only about six
months from the date of purchase unless given special packaging or
storage.  Freezing or refrigeration will greatly extend this.  It's
possible to purchase brown rice from long term food suppliers already
specially packaged in air tight containers with an inert nitrogen
atmosphere or you can do it yourself.  In this kind of packaging, (if
properly done), the storage life can be extended for several years.
    Converted rice:  Converted rice starts as whole rice still in the
hull which undergoes a process of soaking and steaming until it is
partially cooked.  It is dried, hulled and then polished to remove the
bran and germ.  The steaming process drives some of the vitamins and
minerals from the outer layers into the white inner layers.  This makes
it more nutritious than polished white rice, but also makes it more
expensive.  Its storage life is the same as regular white rice.
     White rice:  This is raw rice that has had its outer layers milled
off, taking with it about 10% of its protein, 85% of its fat and 70% of
its mineral content.  Because so much of the nutrition is lost, white
rice sold in the U.S. has to be "enriched" with vitamins to partially
replace what was removed.
     Instant rice: The type of rice is fully cooked and then dehydrated
needing nothing more than the addition of water to reconstitute it.  In
a pinch, it's not even necessary to use hot water.  It's not
particularly suitable for inclusion in storage programs, but it does
have a place in "seventy-two hour" and other short-term emergency kits.
The white variety is by far the most common, but in the last few years
instant brown rice has made an appearance on the market.


    RYE: Rye is well known as a bread grain in the U.S.  It has dark
         brown kernels longer and thinner than wheat, but less gluten.
Bread made from this grain tends to be somewhat dense unless gluten is
added (often in the form of a lot of wheat flour) with color that ranges
from pale to dark brown.  German pumpernickel, made with unrefined rye
flour and molasses, is the darkest, densest form.


    SORGHUM:  Sorghum is probably more widely known here in the States
              for the syrup made from it.  Also known as "milo", it is
one of the principle cereal grains grown of Africa.  Its seeds are
somewhat round, a little smaller than peppercorns, of an overall brown
color with a bit of red and yellow mixed in.  The varieties called
"yellow endosperm sorghum" are considered to have a better taste.  It is
a major feed grain in the Southwestern U.S. and is where the vast
majority of the national production goes.  Like most of the other
grains, sorghum is low in gluten, but the seeds can be milled into flour
and mixed with higher gluten flours or made into flat breads, pancakes
or cookies.  In the Far East, it is cooked and eaten like rice, while in
Africa it is ground into meal for porridge.  It's also fermented for
alcoholic beverages.


    TRITICALE:     Triticale is not a creation sprung from the
                   smooth brows of *Star Trek* script writers.  It is,
in fact, a cross or hybrid between wheat and rye.  This youngest of
grains combines the productivity of wheat with the ruggedness of rye and
has a high nutrition value.  The kernels are gray-brown, oval shaped
larger-than-wheat and plumper than rye.  It can be used in much the same
way as either of its two parents.  It will make a raised bread like
wheat does, but the gluten is a bit weak so wheat flour is frequently
added to strengthen it.  Because of the delicate nature of its gluten,
excessive kneading must be avoided.  Although it is the youngest of the
grains, it's been around for decades, but has curiously never achieved
much popularity.  Whether this is for reasons of agricultural production
or public acceptance I don't know.


    WHEAT:    Wheat comes in a number of different varieties.  Each
              variety is more suitable for some purposes based on its
characteristics.  The most common classifications for its varieties are
spring or winter, hard or soft, red or white.
     The hard wheats have kernels that tend to be small, very hard and
with high gluten contents.  Low gluten wheat does not produce as fine a
loaf as high gluten wheat, though it can still be used for yeast breads
if necessary.  As a general rule, hard varieties have more protein than
soft varieties.
     The soft wheats have kernels tending to be larger, plumper and
softer in texture than hard wheats.  Their gluten content is less and
are used in biscuits, pastries, quick breads, pastas, and breakfast
cereals where a higher gluten content would contribute an undesirable
tougher texture.
     Winter wheats are planted in the fall, over winter in the field and
are harvested the next summer.  Spring wheats are planted in the early
spring and are harvested in the fall.  Red wheats comprise most of the
hard varieties while white wheats comprise most of the soft.  Recently,
hard white wheats have been developed that are very suitable for raised
bread making.  Some feel the hard white varieties make a better tasting
whole wheat bread than the hard red.
     The hard red varieties, either spring or winter, are the most
commonly stored because of their high protein and should have no less
than 12%.  The hard white spring wheats are still relatively new and are
not yet as widespread.  They have the same excellent storage
characteristics as the hard red wheats.



     A.2 LEGUME VARIETIES  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Unless you are willing to spend a great deal of money on preserved
meats, a food storage program not including a large quantity of legumes
is simply incomplete.  There are few non- animal foods that contain the
amount of protein to be found in dried beans, peas, and lentils.  The
varieties commonly available in this country have protein contents
ranging from 20%-35%.  As with most non-animal proteins, they are not
complete in themselves for purposes of human nutrition, but become so
when they are combined with the incomplete proteins found in grains.  It
is for this reason that grains and legumes are so often mentioned
together.  In cultures all over the world, it is common to find the two
served together at a meal, making a complete protein, even when those
doing the serving have no scientific understanding of nutrition at all.

     The legume family, of which all beans, peas, lentils, and peanuts
are a part, is one of the largest in the plant kingdom.  Because of this
and the many thousands of years of development and cultivation that man
has given them, the variety of edible legumes available to us is huge.
Both the appearance and the names of these varieties are colorful and
varied.  They range from "adzuki beans", a type of soybean from the
Orient, to "zipper peas", a commonly found field-pea here in the
Southern U.S.  Their color can range from a clean white, to deep red,
dull green to flat black with thousands of mixtures and patterns of
colors.

     In spite of this incredible variety of names and colors, legumes
are largely interchangeable in cooking usage, although some dishes just
wouldn't be the same if a different type were used.  Below is a partial
list of some of the more commonly eaten bean varieties here in the U.S.


    BLACK BEAN:    Also known as "turtle beans", these small, dark
                   brownish-black, oval-shaped beans are well known in
Cuban black bean soup.  They are very commonly used in Central and South
America and in China.  They tend to bleed very darkly when cooked so
they are not well suited to being combined with other beans, lest they
give the entire pot a muddy appearance.


    BLACK-EYED PEA:     Although there is tremendous variation among the
                        many varieties of field-peas eaten throughout
the Southern United States, it is black-eyed peas that are the most
commonly known nationwide.  The coloring of field-peas is as varied as
the rest of the legume family, with black-eyed peas being small, oval-
shaped with an overall creamy color and, of course, their distinctive
black-eye.  Dried field-peas cook very quickly and combine very tastily
with either rice or cornbread.


    CHICKPEA: Also known as the "garbanzo bean" or "cecci pea" (or
              bean), it tends to be a creamy or tan color, rather
lumpily roundish and larger than dried garden peas.  Many have eaten
chickpeas, even if they've never seen a whole one.  They are the prime
ingredient in hummus and falafel and are one of the oldest cultivated
legume species known, going back as far as 5400 B.C. in the Near East.


    KIDNEY BEANS:  Just like the rest of the family, kidney beans can be
                   found in wide variety.  They come in both a light and
dark red color in their distinctive kidney shape.  Probably best known
here in the U.S. for their use in chili, they figure prominently in
Mexican, Brazilian and Chinese cuisine.


    LENTILS:  Lentils are an odd lot.  They don't fit in with either the
              beans or the peas and occupy a place by themselves.  Their
shape is different from the other legumes being roundish little discs
with colors ranging from muddy brown, to green to a rather bright
orangish-red.  They cook very quickly compared to the larger beans and
have a distinctive flavor.  They are much used in Far Eastern cuisine
from Indian to Chinese.


    LIMA BEANS:    In the Southern U.S., they are also commonly called
                   "butter beans". They are one of the most common
legumes found in this country in all manner of preservation from the
young small beans to the large fully mature type.  Their flavor is
pleasant, but a little bland.  Their shape is rather flat and broad with
colors ranging from pale green to speckled cream and purple.


    PEANUTS:  The peanut, commonly known outside the U.S. as the
              "groundnut", is not actually a nut at all, but a legume.
They are another odd species not much like the more familiar beans and
peas.  Whatever their classification peanuts are certainly not
unfamiliar to U.S. eaters.  Peanuts have a high protein percentage and
even more fat.  They are one of the two legume species commonly grown
for oilseed in this country, and are also used for peanut butter, and
boiled or roasted peanuts.  Many Central and South American, African and
Chinese dishes incorporate peanuts so they are useful for much more than
just a snack food or cooking oil.


    PINTO BEANS:   Anyone who has eaten Tex-Mex food has probably had
                   the pinto bean.  It is one of the most commonly eaten
beans in the U.S., particularly in the Southwestern portion of the
country.  Stereotypically bean shaped, it has a dappled pattern of tans
and browns on its shell.  Pintos have a flavor that blends well with
many foods.  When ground together with white or navy beans they make my
favorite home-made version of falafel.


    SOYBEANS: An entire university could be founded on the culinary and
              industrial uses of the soybean.  It is by far the legume
with the highest protein content in commercial production as well as
being the other legume oilseed alongside the peanut.  The beans
themselves are small, and round with a multitude of different shades.
Because of their high oil content, they are more sensitive to oxygen
exposure than other legumes and precautions should be taken accordingly
if they are to be kept for more than a year in storage.  Although the
U.S. grows a very large percentage of the global supply, we consume
virtually none of them directly.  Most of them go into cattle feed, are
used by industry or exported.  What does get eaten directly has usually
been processed in some fashion.  Soybean products range from tofu, to
tempeh, to textured vegetable protein (TVP) and hundreds of other uses.
They don't lend themselves well to just being boiled until done and
eaten the way other beans and peas do.  For this reason, if you plan on
keeping some as a part of your storage program (and you should) you
would be well served to begin to learn how to process and prepare them
now when you're not under pressure to produce.  That way you can throw
out your mistakes and order pizza, rather than having to choke them
down, regardless.
                                                      

     A.3  TYPES OF AVAILABILITY OF GRAINS AND LEGUMES
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]
                                                      
     Grains and legumes of all types may be purchased in a number of
different fashions depending largely on where you live and what time of
year it is.  The following will cover the various steps in the
processing chain where they might be found starting with the forms most
immediately suitable for storage and progressing all the way back to the
farmer.
     Each type of availability has its good and bad points.  As you
might expect, the more processing the product receives, the higher its
price is likely to be.  The further back along the processing chain you
go the cheaper the product should become in terms of purchase price.  It
will, however, cost you more in time and effort to get it into a
condition ready to put it into storage.
     The easiest and simplest way to incorporate grains and legumes into
your storage program is to purchase your items "pre-cleaned and
pre-packaged".  This is grain or legumes that have been harvested,
cleaned and put up in bags or other containers-possibly even going so
far as to already be packaged for long-term storage.  If you don't live
in the area where they are grown, it is probably your only option.
     If you want to purchase in bulk then you may be able to find
"pre-cleaned" which means that it has been passed through fans, screens
or sieves to remove chaff, smut balls, insect parts, mouse droppings and
other debris.  It probably won't be in any form of packaging and you may
have to provide your own container.  There may be minimum purchase
amounts as well.  If the moisture content is in the right range then
nothing will need to be done other than to put it up in your own storage
packaging.  Be certain to make sure it is intended for human food use,
otherwise read the cautionary text below.
     Should you happen to live in the area where the type of grain or
legume that you are interested in purchasing is grown you may be able to
purchase direct from the producer or distributor.
     If you are interested in doing this, it may be possible to find
your product "field-run" which means that it's been harvested and sold
shortly thereafter.  It will not have been given any cleaning or
processing and is likely to be rather dirty depending upon the
conditions under which it was grown and harvested.
     A second form called "field-run from storage" is product that has
been harvested and then put into storage for a time.  It will have all
of the dirt and detritus of field run grain and whatever it may have
picked up from the silo as well.

    IMPORTANT NOTE:     If you have purchased your grains and legumes
                        from a foods dealer then you needn't worry about
hidden mold infections, fungicides or insecticides that are unsafe for
human consumption.  In the U.S., the products will have been checked
several times by Federal and State agriculture departments and probably
by the major foods dealers as well, to ensure its quality.
     This is not necessarily the case when you purchase your grains or
legumes directly from the farmer or elevator operator as field-run or
field-run from storage grain.  Nor is it necessarily the case if you've
made the decision to utilize grains marketed as animal feed.  Inspection
procedures vary from nation to nation, so if you buy outside of the U.S.
inquire of your supplier.
     If you are buying your grains and legumes from some place other
than a foods dealer, you need to know the history of what you are
buying.  There is the remote possibility that field-run from storage or
any grade of grain not specifically sold for human consumption may have
had fumigants, fungicides or insecticides not certified as safe for
human foods added while it was in the bin.  It is important to know what
it has been treated with before you buy it.
     Straight field-run grain, other than being dirty, is not likely to
have had anything added to it that would make it undesirable for human
consumption.  There is, however, the also remote possibility it may have
been infected with fungi that would make it unsafe for eating.
     One of these fungal infections of grain is called "ergot".  This
fungal disease affects the flowering parts of some members of the grass
family, mostly confined to rye.  Consuming the fungus causes a nervous
disorder known as St. Anthony's Fire.  When eaten in large quantities
the ergot alkaloids may cause constriction of the blood vessels,
particularly in the extremities.  The effects of ergot poisoning are
cumulative and lead to numbness of the limbs and other, frequently
serious, symptoms.
     The fungus bodies are hard, spur-like, purple-black structures that
replace the kernel in the grain head.  The ergot bodies can vary in size
from the length of the kernel to as much as several times as long.  They
don't crush as easily as smut bodies of other funguses.  When they are
cracked open, the inner broken faces can be off-white, yellow, or tan.
The infected grain looks very different from ordinary, healthy rye
grains and can be spotted easily.  Ergot only rarely affects other
grains and will generally afflict rye only when the growing conditions
were damp.  If you purchase field run rye, you should closely examine it
first for the presence of ergot bodies.  If you find more than a very
few, pass up that grain and look elsewhere.
     Ergot is typically not a common problem in the U.S and is easily
spotted when it does occur.  Other grain fungi, however, are much harder
to spot and also have serious consequences should they be consumed.  The
various species of "Aspergillus" and "Fusarium" molds can be a problem
almost anywhere and should be kept in mind. *Please see Section III.B
Molds In Grains and Legumes for more information concerning this.*
     Sometimes grain in the form of animal feed or seed grain/legumes is
available.  Keep in mind animal feeds may have a higher contaminant
level than what is permissible for human consumption.  Under certain
circumstances, the USDA allows the sale of grain or legumes for animal
feed that could not be sold for direct human food use.  It may even be
mixed varieties of one grain and not all one type.  Seed grains, in
particular, must be investigated carefully to find out what they may
have been treated with.  It is quite common for seed to have had
fungicides applied to them, and possibly other chemicals as well.  Once
treated, they are no longer safe for human or animal consumption.
     If you do purchase field-run grain of any sort, examine it closely
for contamination and moldy grain.  Ask the farmer or distributor
whether it has been tested for mold or "mycotoxin" (fungal toxin)
content.  This is especially the case if you are buying field-run CORN,
RYE, SOYBEANS or RICE.  When you purchase direct from the field, you
may be getting it before it has been checked.  Be certain of what it is
that you are getting and ask questions if you choose to go this route.
Know who you are dealing with.  Unless you just can't find any other
source, I don't recommend using animal feed or seed grains for human
food.

    *Please see section III.B.3 " Molds In Grains and Legumes" for
further information.*


     A.3.1 MOISTURE CONTENT
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     The moisture content of the grain or legume you want to put by has
a major impact on how long you will be able to keep it in storage and
still remain nutritious and edible.  Some of the available literature
states that grain with a moisture content as high as 13% can be safely
put up, but there is a risk to keeping it at that moisture level that
should be understood.
     The outside of every kernel of grain and bean you buy or grow hosts
thousands of fungi spores and bacteria.  This is all perfectly natural
and is not a reason for alarm.  The problem lies in that at moisture
levels between 13.5% to 15% some fungal species are able to grow and
reproduce.  Aerobic bacteria (needing free oxygen to survive) require
moisture in the 20% range.  If you have grain with a moisture content as
high as 13% you are perilously close to having enough moisture to enable
mold growth which could lead to the spoilage and loss of your product.
For this reason, I suggest you keep all grains and legumes to a moisture
content of no more than 10%.  An exception to this is raw peanuts which
are particularly susceptible to an Aspergillus mold growth that produces
aflatoxin (a type of mycotoxin) and should be stored with an 8% moisture
content or less.
     If you do not have a clue as to what the moisture level of your
grain is here are several methods to determine it.  The first method
requires a great deal more oven time, but is the simplest and has less
room for error to creep in.  The second method is much quicker, but
greater care must be taken to prevent mistakes.
     Highly precise moisture content measurements generally require
equipment and facilities beyond the scope of what can be had by the
average person.  It is still possible though to make some determinations
that will be of real use for our purposes.
     You'll need some way to measure weight with a fair degree of
accuracy.  The better the scale you use, the more reliability you'll
have in your determinations.  Provided that it will weigh accurately to
the half-ounce or less, any scale that can be calibrated with a known
check weight will do.  Even postal scales can be made to serve if they
are carefully calibrated against a known weight.  Many individuals
interested in starting storage programs may have grain weight scales
used in ammunition reloading that might serve well.
     Also necessary is a thermometer capable of withstanding and
accurately measuring oven temperatures.  As many bakers can tell you,
home oven thermostats are often notoriously inaccurate so it is better
to rely on a decent thermometer.  Most kitchen supply stores can supply
one that is oven safe and will accurately measure to the degree
Fahrenheit or Celsius.
     Proper technique calls for preheating the oven for a half-hour or
more before starting the dehydrating process so that it will be of a
uniform heat throughout.  The sample pan should be placed on the middle
rack as close to the vertical and horizontal center of the oven as
possible.  The bulb or dial of the thermometer should be placed next to
the pan.


     METHOD ONE.

     This method is for measuring moisture content in whole grains and
legumes.  Grain flours or meals, milk powders and any other finely
textured foods should use method two detailed below.
     To be done prior to measuring -- choose a shallow heat resistant
container that has a close fitting lid.  Clean it thoroughly and dry it
completely in your oven for 10-15 minutes.  Allow it to cool and then
weigh it carefully.  This will give you the tare weight or what your
container weighs empty.
     Depending on how your scale is calibrated you can use a smaller
sample size than what is indicated below.  Using the twenty-ounce sample
mentioned in the following text will allow for fairly accurate readings
with the average postal scale.  A scale that will measure to the gram
could use as small a sample as 20 grams.  A powder scale could use even
less, but the smaller your sample size becomes the more finicky care you
must take not to allow error to creep in.  Keep your sample size large
enough to easily work with.
     Allowing for the weight of the sample pan, measure out a weighed
twenty-ounce representative sample of the grain or legumes in question.
Ideally, you should mix the entire lot thoroughly immediately before
removing the sample, but if this is not possible then take it from the
middle center of the container.  It is important that you use care in
this measurement since it will affect all following determinations.
     Put the sample in the container making sure it is not more than an
inch deep.  Place it in the oven with the lid off and allow to heat.
Below is a table giving the oven temperatures and times per grain or
legume type:


    Time and Temperature Settings for Determining Moisture
    Contents of Whole Seeds.
    ------------------------------------------------------

                  Oven Temperature      Oven Time
        Seed      Deg.  F    C            Hours

    Barley             266  130            20
    Beans              217  103            72
    Corn               217  103            72
    Oats               266  130            22
    Rye                266  130            16
    Sorghum, millet    266  130            18
    Soybeans, peanuts  217  103            72
    Wheat, rice        266  130            19


     When the dehydration period is over place the close fitting
lid on the sample pan and allow to cool in the oven with the door
closed.  Remove the pan and carefully weigh it.
     A one ounce loss in weight indicates your grain has a roughly five
percent moisture content, 2 ounces indicates that it has a 10% moisture
content, etc., etc.  You might even be able to cut it as fine as a half
oz loss, but I wouldn't try to take it further than that.
     Obviously, this is only a rough measure, but it works and can be
done with postal or dietetic scales that are available virtually
everywhere.  As I mentioned above, if you have a scale with a finer
calibration it is possible to use a smaller sample size and achieve the
same result.
     If anyone has a better way of measuring moisture levels which can
be done without a lab or special equipment I'd surely like to hear it.
                      

     METHOD TWO

     This method is much faster to use than the first, but greater care
must be taken to prevent error.  It can be used to determine moisture
contents of whole grains and legumes, flours, meals and various food
powders.
     The same equipment as was used in Method One will be required here
as well as a low-RPM grain mill or some other device that can reduce a
quantity of the grain to a meal consistency with only minimal heating of
the sample.  If the food to be tested is already at a meal consistency
or finer then it can be used as-is.
     Grind a quantity of product you want to measure the moisture
content of.  Take care to grind the sample slowly enough to keep
friction heat build up to a minimum or else moisture will be lost due to
heat evaporation before it can be weighed.
     Immediately upon finishing the grinding, weigh out your sample so
as to minimize unmeasured moisture loss.
     Place the sample in the oven and dehydrate in the manner used in
Method One for a period of two hours at a temperature setting of 275
deg. F (135 deg. C).  When the heating period is finished cover with the
tight-fitting lid and allow to cool in the oven.  Remove and weigh
carefully.  Moisture determination is the same as above.


     A.3.2  CLEANING IT YOURSELF
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     If you've chosen to purchase field-run grain or if the pre-cleaned
product you've bought isn't clean enough, you can do it yourself.
     The fastest and easiest method is "fanning", a form of winnowing.
This is done by pouring the grain slowly through the air stream of a fan
or blower into a clean, deep container such as a cardboard box or trash
can.  The wind blowing through the falling grain will blow out most of
the broken kernels, chaff, smut balls, mouse droppings, etc.  If you're
losing too much good grain, try turning the fan down or moving it
further back from the container.  The deep container will cut down on
the amount of kernels that bounce out.  Repeat fanning as necessary
until the grain is clean enough to suit or you've blown all of the
lighter contaminants out.
     If the fanning didn't get the grain clean enough it can be
further cleaned by running it through a screen or sieve.  This
should be made with holes just big enough to pass an average sized
grain of what it is you're cleaning.  Obviously, the size of the
holes will necessarily vary depending upon the kernel size of the
grain.
     Should the kernels still not be clean enough to suit then you'll
just have to resort to hand picking out the offending particles.  I'd
strongly suggest doing this just prior to grinding where it can be done
in small batches rather than trying to do your entire storage all at
once.  It's much easier to do a few pounds at a time than fifty or a
hundred.
     If you have it in mind to wash the grain, this should not be done
prior to storage, but, rather, just before use.  After it's been rinsed,
it should be dried immediately in the oven by placing it no deeper than
1/2 inch and heated at 150 deg. F for an hour.  It should be stirred
occasionally to improve drying.
                      

     A.4  STORING GRAINS AND LEGUMES
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

    Now that you have properly prepared your grains and legumes for
storage, they are ready to be packaged.

*For methods and procedures of packaging please see section IV.*

         IV.  Specific Equipment Questions
          A.  Storage Containers
          B.  CO2 and Nitrogen
          C.  Oxygen Absorbers
          D.  Desiccants
          E.  Diatomaceous Earth
                      

B. DRY MILKS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Got milk?  In the refrigerator, right?  Milk is a great source of
essential amino acids and vital calcium, but in its fresh liquid form it
is a highly perishable commodity.  Fortunately, milk can be found in
several forms that lend themselves to food storage.  The various types
of dry milks are the best suited to the task.


     B.1  TYPES OF DRY MILKS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

    NONFAT:   This is pasteurized skim milk reduced to a powdered
              concentrate.  It can be found in two forms, regular and
instant.  They are both made from milk in a spray-drying process, but
the instant variety has been given further processing to make it more
easily soluble in water than regular dry milk.  Both types have the same
nutrient composition.  The regular variety is more compact and requires
less storage space than the instantized variety, but it is more
difficult to reconstitute.  The most easily found variety is the
instant, available in nearly any grocery store.  The regular variety has
to be sought out from baking and restaurant suppliers and storage food
dealers.
     It takes 3.2 oz or about 3 tablespoons of instant nonfat dry milk
added to 8 oz of water to make 1 cup of milk you can drink or cook with
just like fresh milk, albeit with a considerable flavor difference.
Combining the dry milk with water at least several hours before you plan
to use it gives it time to dissolve fully and to develop a fresher
flavor.  Shaking the fluid milk vigorously will incorporate air and will
also help to improve flavor.  Add the powder to baked goods, gravies,
smoothies, hot cereals, casseroles and meat loaf as a nutrition booster.
It can also be used to make yogurt, cheese and most any cultured dairy
product that does not require a high fat content.

    FLAVORED NONFAT:    This may be found packaged in a variety of forms
                        from a low calorie diet drink (artificially
sweetened) to the other end of the scale, as cocoa mix or malted milk.
The key ingredient is the dry milk so buy and store these products
accordingly.

    WHOLE MILK:    This is whole dry milk with all of its fat content
                   and therefore has a shorter shelf life than nonfat.
Other than that, it can be used in exactly the same way.  Dry whole milk
is difficult to find, but can sometimes be found where camping and
outback supplies are sold.

    BUTTERMILK:    Dry buttermilk is for use in recipes calling for
                   buttermilk.  Since it has a slightly higher fat
content than nonfat dry milk, it generally does not keep as long.


     B.1.1  BUYING DRY MILK PRODUCTS

    (a)- Be sure the dry milk you are buying has been fortified with
vitamins A and D.  All of the nonfat dry milks I've seen come fortified
with these two vitamins.  The dry buttermilk does not come this way, at
least the SACO brand does not.  I don't know if the flavored mixes and
the dry whole milk do or not.
    (b)- There should be no artificial colors or flavors.  I believe it
is illegal to add preservatives to any dry milk sold in the U.S. so a
claim of "no preservatives" on the label is of no consequence.  Other
nations may be different, however.
    (c)- "Extra Grade" on the label indicates the manufacturer has held
to higher processing and quality standards and the milk is somewhat
lower in fat, moisture and bacterial content, is more soluble, and has
fewer scorched particles.

    There are still some manufacturers of dry milk that sell ordinary
Grade A product, but they are becoming fewer.  Every brand of instant
powdered milk in my local grocery store is the Extra Grade, even the
generic store brand.  This, too, may vary outside of the States.

    (d)- Try to buy your dried milk in containers of a size that makes
sense for the level of consumption in the household.  Once it is opened,
powdered milk has a short shelf life before undesirable changes in
flavor and nutrient content occurs.  If you buy large packages and do
not use much at one time, consider breaking it down and repackaging into
smaller containers at the time of purchase.
    (e)- As with any storage food you buy, try to deal only with
reputable dealers.  It is particularly important to do this with dry
milk because of its short shelf life and sensitivity to storage
conditions.  Check expiration dates, then date and rotate packages.


     B.2  STORING OF DRY MILKS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Dry milk products are probably the most sensitive to environmental
conditions storage foods there are, particularly to temperature and
moisture content.  Their vitamins A and D are also photosensitive and
will break down rapidly if exposed to light.
     The area where your dry milk is stored should be kept as cool as
possible.  If it is possible to do so, air-conditioning or even
refrigeration can greatly extend the nutrient shelf life.
     If the storage container is transparent or translucent then it
should be put into a second container opaque to light or stored in a
dark room.
     Dry milk will absorb moisture and odors from the air so storage
containers should be impervious to both air and moisture.  The drier it
can be kept, the better it will keep.  The use of desiccants is an
excellent idea.  Oxygen also speeds decomposition.  Powdered milk canned
with nitrogen or carbon dioxide to replace air (which contains oxygen)
will keep longer than powdered milk exposed to air.  Vacuum canning also
decreases the available oxygen.
     If the dry milk purchased was not packaged for long term storage
then it should be repackaged right away.
     I purchase the instant variety at my local grocery and repack it
when I get it home.  I've seen a number of methods used for this and any
of them should work.
     The method I now use is to pour the powder into clean, dry
half-gallon canning jars.  Once the jars are filled I add a small
desiccant pack and seal.  They are dated and stored in the ubiquitous
cool, dark place.  They must be guarded against breakage, but they offer
the advantage of not holding odors, thus allowing for reuse after
suitable cleaning.  Since they are as transparent the contents must be
protected against light.  Vacuum sealing and then storing in a dark
place may be the best method.  Larger jars of 1 gallon size could be
used and then re-vacuum sealed after each use.  An O2 absorber would
take care of any remaining oxygen and would, itself, last longer when
used in conjunction with the vacuum sealer.  Being glass, the jar can be
reused as well as the lid and ring if they're properly cleaned.
     Clean, sound plastic one and two liter soda bottles can also be
used, but probably should be used just once since the plastic is
somewhat permeable and will hold odors.
     If you have access to a can sealer, #10 cans make wonderful storage
containers for dry milk, particularly if used in conjunction with O2
absorbers.
     Another method I've seen used is to remove the paper envelopes of
milk powder from the cardboard box they come from the grocery store in
and to put them in dated plastic bags.  These bags are not sealed.  The
unsealed bags are then placed in a larger, air tight, opaque container.
I've heard of plastic buckets, fifty cal and 20 mm ammo cans being used
for this purpose.  A healthy quantity of desiccant was also placed in
the container.  This would be another area where O2 absorption packets
should serve well.  It's important to remember the containers should be
clean and odor-free.

     *Please see Section IV Specific Equipment Questions for information
concerning the proper use of containers, desiccants, compressed gasses,
dry ice and oxygen absorbers.*


     B.2.1  SHELF LIFE OF DRY MILKS

     From:     SacoFoods@aol.com  (Amy Thompson)
     To:       Dunross@dkeep.com  (Alan Hagan)
     Subj:     SACO Mix'nDrink Instant Pure Skim Milk
     Date:     May 9, 1996

Dear Mr. Hagan:

     Thank you for your e-mail today and for your interest in SACO
Mix'nDrink Pure Skim Milk.

     Our Mix'n Drink will keep its nutrition value for up to about two
years if kept cool and dry, and the only vitamins that actually decrease
over time are the vitamins A and D.  These are not shelf-stable vitamins
and are sensitive to heat and light.  A good rule of thumb to follow is
that the vitamins A and D will dissipate at a rate of about 20% every
year if stored properly.  The less heat and moisture the milk is exposed
to, the better the vitamins will keep.  A freezer could extend the shelf
life, as long as the powder does not get moisture in it.  If you had to
put a time limit on the Mix'nDrink, for rotation purposes, I would date
it at two years after the date of purchase.

     After opening a package of dry milk, transfer the powder to a
tightly covered glass or metal container (dry milk can pick up odors
from plastic containers) and keep it in the refrigerator.  Unsealed
nonfat dry milk keeps for a few months; dry whole milk for a few weeks.
                                                           
------------------------------------------------------------------

    From:     SacoFoods@aol.com  (Amy Thompson)
    To:       Dunross@dkeep.com  (Alan Hagan)
    Subj:     SACO Mix'nDrink Instant Pure Skim Milk
    Date:     May 21, 1996

Dear Mr. Hagan:

     Since vitamins A and D are heat and light sensitive, I would say
that your 1 1/2 year shelf life is very reasonable.  If you are trying
to determine when the nutritional value has been affected more than 40%,
as you previously indicated, you should be pretty safe with that time
element, as long as it is not exposed to extreme heat.

[Eds note:  We were discussing the higher average temperatures found in
Florida and other hot climates and the effect that it would have on
their dry milk's nutrient content]
                      

C. CANNED GOODS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     C.1  CANNED MILK TYPES

     Preserved liquid milk comes in a number of forms, none of which are
very similar to each other.  The most common forms of these packaged
milks are as follows:

    CANNED MILKS:  These are commonly called UHT milks (Ultra High
                   Temperature) for the packaging technique used to put
them up. They come in the same varieties as fresh liquid milks:  Whole,
2%, 1% and skim.  I've even found whipping cream in UHT packaging (Grand
Chef - Parmalat), though this may be offered only in the commercial and
restaurant trade.  In the U.S. they have vitamin D added.  The lesser
fat content milks do not keep as long as whole milk and their use by
dates are correspondingly shorter term.  This milk is packaged in
aseptic containers, either cans or laminated paper cartons.  It has the
same composition as fresh milk of the same type, and can be stored at
room temperature because of the special pasteurizing process used.  The
milk has a boiled flavor, but much less than evaporated milk.  The dates
are usually for approximately six months.  The milk is still usable past
its date, but the flavor soon begins to go stale and the cream
separates.  I am told by a friend who lived in Germany not long after
this kind of canned milk began to come on the market there that they
were dated for a year.
     With a six-month shelf life this type of canned milk naturally
requires a much faster rotation cycle than other types.  The only brand
name for this milk I've seen is Parmalat.  Recently, I have discovered
that it makes excellent yogurt, losing the boiled tasted


    EVAPORATED:    This is made from fresh, unpasteurized whole milk.  A
                   vacuum-heating process removes 60% of the water; the
concentrate is heated, homogenized, and in the States vitamin D is
added.  It is then canned and heated again to sterilize the contents.
It may also have other nutrients and chemical stabilizers added.  A
mixture of one part water and one part evaporated milk will have about
the same nutritional value of an equal amount of fresh milk.  There is
generally no date or use by code on evaporated milk
     Health and nutrition food stores often carry canned, evaporated
goat's milk, in a similar concentration.

    SWEETENED CONDENSED:     This milk goes through much less processing
                             than evaporated milk.  It starts with
pasteurized milk combined with a sugar solution.  The water is then
extracted until the mixture is less than half its original weight.  It
is not heated because the high sugar content prevents spoilage.  It's
very high in calories, too:  8 oz has 980 calories.

     Although it is often hard to find, the label has a stamped date
code which indicates the date by which it should be consumed.
Sweetened, condensed milk may thicken and darken as it ages, but it is
still edible.

     C.1.1  SHELF LIFE OF CANNED MILKS

     Unopened cans of evaporated milk can be stored on a cool, dry shelf
for up to six months.  Canned milk (UHT) should be stored till the
stamped date code on the package (3 - 6 months).  Check the date on
sweetened, condensed milk for maximum storage.
                      

     C.2  CORROSION PREVENTION OF CANNED GOODS  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Some areas have difficulty storing metal canned goods for long
periods of time.  This is usually caused by very high humidity or
exposure to salt in a marine environment.  If this is a problem, it is
possible to extend the life of metal cans by coating their outsides.
I've seen this used on boats here in Florida, especially when loading
for a long trip.  There are at least four methods that can be used to do
this:

     PARAFFIN METHOD:  Using a double boiler, paraffin is melted and
brushed on the clean, unrusted cans.  Be certain to get a good coat on
all seams, particularly the joints.  If the can is small enough, it can
be dipped directly into the wax.  Care must be taken to not cause the
labels to separate from the cans.  Do not leave in long enough for the
can to get warm.

     PASTE WAX METHOD:  Combine 2-3 oz. of paste or jelly wax with a
quart of mineral spirits.  Warm the mixture CAREFULLY in its container
by immersing it in a larger container of hot water.  DO NOT HEAT OVER AN
OPEN FLAME!  Stir the wax/spirits thoroughly until it is well mixed and
dissolved.  Paint the cans with a brush in the same manner as above.
Place the cans on a wire rack until dry.

     SPRAY SILICONE:  A light coating of ordinary spray silicone may be
used to deter rust.  Spray lightly, allow to dry, wipe gently with a
clean cloth to remove excess silicone.

     CLEAR COATING:  A clear type of spray or brush on coating such as
Rustoleum may be applied.  This is best suited for larger resealable
cans, but will keep them protected from corrosion for years.
                      

D. SUGAR, HONEY AND OTHER SWEETENERS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     There are a wide number of sugars to be found for purposes of
sweetening foods.  Fructose is the primary sugar in fruit and honey;
maltose is one of the sugars in malted grains; pimentose are found in
olives and sucrose is what we know as granulated or table sugar.
Sucrose is a highly refined product made primarily from sugar cane
though sugar beets still contribute a fair amount of the world supply.
Modern table sugar is now so highly refined as to be virtually 100% pure
and nearly indestructible if protected from moisture.  Powdered sugar
and brown sugar are simple variations on granulated sugar and share its
long life.

     Liquid sweeteners do not have quite the longevity of dry sugars.
Honey, cane syrup, molasses, corn syrup and maple syrup may crystallize
or mold during long storage.  These syrups are chemically not as simple
as table sugar and therefore lose flavor and otherwise break down over
time.

      
     D.1  TYPES OF GRANULATED SUGARS  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Buying granulated sugar and its close cousins is really a very
simple matter.  Buy a brand you know you can trust and be certain the
package is clean, dry and has no insect infestation.  There's very
little that can go wrong with it.

    GRANULATED:    Granulated sugar does not spoil, but if it gets damp
                   it will likely cake up or get lumpy.  If it does, it
can simply be pulverized again until it regains its granulated texture.
Granulated sugar can be found in varying textures, coarser or finer.
"Castor/caster sugar" is a finer granulation than what is commonly sold
as table sugar in the U.S. and is more closely equivalent to our
super fine or berry sugar.

    POWDERED,      All names refer to the same kind of sugar, that is
    CONFECTIONERS, white granulated sugar very finely ground.  For
    ICING:         commercial use there is a range of textures from
                   coarse to ultra-fine.  For home consumption, what is
generally found is either Very Fine (6X) or Ultra-Fine (10X), but this
can vary from nation to nation.  Not all manufacturers will indicate the
grind on the package though.  Sugar refiners usually add a small amount
of corn-starch to prevent caking.

     Powdered sugar is as inert as granulated sugar, but it is even more
hygroscopic and will absorb any moisture present.  If it absorbs more
than a little it may cake up and get hard.  It's difficult to reclaim
hardened powdered sugar, but it can still be used like granulated sugar.


    BROWN,    In the United States brown sugar is basically just refined
LIGHT & DARK: white sugar that has had a bit of molasses or sugar syrup
              and caramel coloring added to it.  Dark brown sugar has
more molasses which gives it a stronger flavor, a darker color and makes
it damp.  Light brown sugar has less molasses which gives it a milder
flavor, a blonder color and is slightly dryer than the dark variety.
For storage purposes you may want to just stock the dark variety.  Light
brown sugar can be made by combining one fourth to one third white sugar
to the remainder dark brown sugar and blend thoroughly.

     Both varieties need to be protected from drying out, or they will
become very hard and difficult to deal with.  Nor do you want to allow
them to become damper than what they already are.

     There are granulated and liquid brown sugars available, but they
don't have the same cooking qualities as ordinary brown sugars.  They
also don't dry out and harden quite so readily either.


    RAW, NATURAL,  In recent years, sugar refiners have realized that
    & TURBINADO:   there is a market for less refined forms of cane
                   sugar in the U.S. and have begun to sell this kind of
sugar under various names and packagings.  None of it is really raw
sugar since it is illegal to sell it in the U.S. due to the high
impurities level in the truly raw product.  All of it has been processed
in some form or fashion to clean it, but it has not been subjected to
the full refining and whitening processes of ordinary white table sugar.
This leaves some of the natural color and a mild flavor in the
sweetener.  All of these less refined sugars may be stored and handled
like brown sugar.

     Outside of the United States it is possible to buy truly raw sugar
and it can be found under names such as "muscavado", "jaggery" (usually
a raw palm or date sugar), "demerara" and others.  With all of the
molasses and other impurities retained it is quite strong in flavor so
would not be suited to general use, but there are recipes that call for
it.  In spite of moisture and impurities it can be stored like brown
sugar since its sugar content is high enough to inhibit most microbial
growth.


     D.1.1  STORING GRANULATED SUGARS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     All granulated sugars have basically the same storage requirements.
They need to be kept in air tight, insect and moisture proof containers.
For powdered, and granulated sugar you might want to consider using some
desiccant in the storage container if your local climate is damp.  Since
brown sugars and raw sugars are supposed to be moist, they do not need
desiccants.  Shelf life is indefinite if kept dry, but anything that you
intend to eat really should be rotated over time.  Time has a way of
affecting even the most durable of foods.

     I've used brown sugar that was six years old at the time it was
removed from storage and, other than the molasses settling somewhat
toward the bottom, it was just fine.  A friend to whom I gave a bucket
of the brown sugar finished it off three years after I gave it to her
which was nine years after it was packaged and it, too, was fine.


     D.2  TYPES OF HONEY 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Honey is probably the oldest sweetener known to man. Its use
predates recorded history and has been found in the Egyptian pyramids.
It's typically sweeter than granulated sugar by a factor of 25%-40%
depending upon the specific flowers from which the bees gather their
nectar.  This means a smaller amount of honey can give the same amount
of sweetening as sugar.  The source flowers also dictate the flavor and
the color of the sweetener as well.  Honey color can range from very
dark (nearly black) to almost colorless.  As a general rule, the lighter
the color and the more delicate the flavor, the greater the price the
honey will bring.  As you might expect, since honey is sweeter than
table sugar, it also has more calories as well -- 22 per teaspoon
compared to granulated sugar's 16 per teaspoon.  There are also trivial
amounts of minerals and vitamins in the bee product while white sugar
has none.
     Raw honey may also contain minute quantities of botulinum spores
and should not be fed to children under one year of age.  PLEASE READ
THE POST FROM GERI GUIDETTI CONCERNING THIS BELOW.  Raw honey is OK for
older children and adults.  Honey is not a direct substitute for table
sugar however, its use in recipes may call for a bit of alteration to
get it to turn out right.
     Honey comes in a number of forms in the retail market and they all
have different storage characteristics:


WHOLE-COMB:   This is the bee product straight from the hive.  It is the
              most unprocessed form in which honey comes, being found as
              large pieces of waxy comb floating in raw honey.  The comb
              itself will contain many unopened honey cells.

RAW:          This is unheated honey that has been removed from the
              comb.  It may contain bits of wax, insect parts and other
              small detritus.

FILTERED:     This is raw honey that has been warmed to make it more
              easy to filter out small particles and impurities.  Other
              than being somewhat cleaner than raw honey it is
              essentially the same.  Most of the trace amounts of
              nutrients remain intact.

LIQUID:       This is honey that has been heated to higher temperatures
              to allow for easier filtering and to kill any
              microorganisms.  Usually lighter in color, this form is
              milder in flavor, resists crystallization and generally
              clearer.  It stores the best of the various forms of
              honey.  Much of the trace amounts of vitamins, however,
              are lost.

SPUN or       This honey has had some of its moisture content removed to
CRYSTALLIZED:  make a creamy spread.  It is the most processed form of
              honey.


     D.2.1  BUYING HONEY
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Much of the honey sold in supermarkets has been blended from a
variety of different honeys and some may have even had other sweeteners
added as well.  Like anything involving humans, buying honey can be a
tricky business.  It pays to deal with individuals and brands you know
you can trust.  In the United States you should buy products labeled
U.S. GRADE A or U.S. FANCY if buying in retail outlets.  However, be
aware there are no federal labeling laws governing the sale of honey, so
only honey labeled pure is entirely honey and not blended with other
sweeteners.  Honey grading is a matter of voluntary compliance which
means some producers may be lax and sloppy about it.  This can be a real
nuisance when producers use words like "organic", "raw", "uncooked" and
"unfiltered" on their labels, possibly to mislead.  Fortunately, most
honey producers are quite honest in their product labeling so if you're
not certain of who to deal with, it is worthwhile to ask around to find
out who produces a good product.
     Honey may also contain trace amounts of drugs used in treating
various bee ailments, including antibiotics.  If this is a concern to
you, then it would be wise to investigate with your local honey producer
what has been used.


     D.2.2  STORING HONEY
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Honey is much easier to store than to select and buy.  Pure honey
won't mold, but may crystallize over time.  Exposure to air and moisture
can cause color to darken and flavor to intensify and may speed
crystallization as well.  Comb honey doesn't store as well liquid honey
so you should not expect it to last as long.
     Storage temperature is not as important for honey, but it should be
kept from freezing and not exposed to high temperatures if possible.
Either extreme can cause crystallization and heat may cause flavor to
strengthen undesirably.
     Filtered liquid honey will last the longest in storage.  Storage
containers should be opaque, airtight, moisture and odor-proof.  Like
any other stored food, honey should be rotated through the storage cycle
and replaced with fresh product.
     If crystallization does occur, honey can be reliquified by placing
the container in a larger container of hot water until it has melted.
     Avoid storing honey near heat sources and if using plastic pails
don't keep it near petroleum products (including gasoline/diesel
engines), chemicals or any other odor-producing products.


     D.2.3  RAW HONEY AND BOTULISM
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

    From: Geri Guidetti arkinst@concentric.net

    Duane Miles wrote:
    >If I recall correctly, honey contains very, very small amounts of
>the bacteria that cause botulism.  For adults, this seldom causes
>problems.  Our immune system is capable of dealing with small numbers
>of even nasty bacteria, they do it all the time.  The problem is when
>we get large numbers of bacteria, or when our immune system is damaged
>or not yet developed.

    >That is where the problem with honey comes in.  Some people used to
>use honey to sweeten milk or other foods for infants.  Infants immune
>systems sometimes cannot handle the bacteria that cause botulism, and,
>of course, those infants became seriously ill.  So pediatricians now
>advise strongly against using honey for children under a certain age.

    Yes, raw honey can contain the temperature resistant spores of
"Clostridium botulinum", the bacterium that causes botulism.  The
organism is a strict anaerobe, meaning that it only grows in the absence
of molecular oxygen.  The problem with infants and honey is that the
small, intestinal tract of an infant apparently is sufficiently
anaerobic to allow the spores to germinate into actively growing C.
botulinum organisms.  Essentially, the infant serves the same role as a
sealed, airtight, contaminated can of beans as far as the organisms are
concerned.  There in the infant's body the bacteria secrete the
dangerous toxin that causes the symptoms of botulism.  There have been
quite a few documented infant deaths due to honey.  As I recall, the
studies identifying honey as the source were done in the '80s.  Most
pediatricians recommend no honey for the first year.  It is probably
best to check with your own for even later updates...Geri Guidetti, The
Ark Institute


     D.2.4  HONEY OUTGASSING
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Q:  My can of honey is bulging.  Is it safe to use?

     A:  Honey can react with the can lining to release a gas especially
when stored over a long period of time.  Honey's high sugar content
prevents bacteria growth.  If there is no sign of mold growth, it is
safe to eat. FREQUENTLY ASKED FOOD QUESTIONS, FN250


     D.3  TYPES OF CANE SYRUPS.
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

MOLASSES &    These two sweeteners are not precisely the same thing.
CANE SYRUP:   Molasses is a by-product of sugar refining and cane syrup
              is simply cane juice boiled down to a syrup, in much the
              same way as maple syrup is produced.  Non-Southerners
              (U.S.) may know it better as unsulphured molasses even if
              this is not completely correct.  Sulphured molasses is
              also available on the market and very cheap as well, but
              it's strong flavor is unattractive and generally not
              desirable.


SORGHUM:      This is produced in the same manner as cane syrup, but
              sorghum cane, rather than sugar cane, is used.  Sorghum
              tends to have a thinner, slightly sourer taste than cane
              syrup.


TREACLE:      This sweetener comes in varying colors from a rather dark
              version, similar to, but not quite the same as blackstrap
              molasses, to paler versions more similar to golden syrup.


    All of the above syrups are generally dark with a rich, heavy
flavor.


GOLDEN SYRUP: This syrup seems to be both lighter and paler in color
              than any of the above three, probably more similar to what
              we would call a table syrup here in the U.S.


TABLE SYRUP:  There are many table syrups sold in supermarkets, some
              with flavorings of one sort or another such as maple,
              various fruits, etc.  A close examination of the
              ingredients list will reveal mixtures of cane syrup, cane
              sugar syrup or corn syrup along with preservatives,
              colorings and other additives.  They usually have a much
              less pronounced flavor than molasses, cane syrup, sorghum
              or the darker treacles.  Any syrup containing corn syrup
              should be stored as corn syrup.


     D.3.1  STORING CANE SYRUPS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     All of the above syrups, except for those having corn syrup in
their makeup, have the same storage characteristics.  They can be stored
on the shelf for about two years and up to a year after opening.  Once
they are opened, they are best kept in the refrigerator to retard mold
growth.  If mold growth does occur, the syrup should be discarded.  The
outside of the bottle should be cleaned of drips after each use.  Some
pure cane and sorghum syrups may crystallize in storage, but this causes
no harm and they can be reliquified using the same method as for honey.


     D.4  CORN SYRUP 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Corn syrup is a liquid sweetener made by an enzyme reaction with
corn-starch.  Available in both a light and a dark form, the darker
variety has a flavor similar to molasses and contains refiners syrup (a
byproduct of sugar refining).  Both types often contain flavorings and
preservatives.  It is commonly used in baking and candy making because
it does not crystallize when heated.  Corn syrup is very common in the
U.S., but less so in the rest of the world.
     Corn syrup stores poorly compared to other sweeteners and because
of this it often has a best if used by dating code on the bottle.  It
should be stored in its original bottle, tightly capped, in a cool, dry
place.  New unopened bottles keep about six months from the date on the
label.  After opening, keep the corn syrup four to six months.  These
syrups are very prone to mold and to fermentation so be on the lookout
for bubbling or a mold haze.  If these present themselves, throw the
syrup out.  You should always be certain to wipe off any drips from the
bottle after every use.


     D.5  MAPLE SYRUP
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

    Maple syrup is produced by boiling down sap of the maple tree until
it reaches a syrup consistency and is slightly sweeter than table sugar.
Maple syrup is judged by much the same criteria as honey:  Lightness of
color, clarity and taste.  Pure maple is generally expensive and most
pancake syrups are corn and cane sugar syrups with either natural or
artificial flavorings.  Maple flavored pancake syrups should be kept and
stored as corn syrups.
    New unopened bottles of maple syrup may be kept on a cool, dark,
shelf for up to two years.  The sweetener may darken and the flavor get
stronger, but it is still usable.
    After the bottle has been opened, it should be refrigerated.  It
will last about a year.  Be careful to look out for mold growth.  If
mold occurs, discard the syrup.
                      

E. FATS AND OILS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     All oils are fats, but not all fats are oils.  They are very
similar to each other in their chemical makeup, but what makes one an
oil and another a fat is the percentage of hydrogen saturation in the
fatty acids of which they are composed.  The fats and oils which are
available to us for culinary purposes are actually mixtures of differing
fatty acids so for practical purposes we'll say saturated fats are solid
at room temperature (70 deg. F) and unsaturated fats we call oils are
liquid at room temperature.  For dietary and nutrition purposes fats are
generally classified as saturated, monosaturated and polyunsaturated,
which is a further refinement of the amount of saturation of the
particular compositions of fatty acids in the fats.


     E.1  BUYING AND STORING OILS AND FATS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     There is a problem with storing oils and fats for the long term and
that is the fact that they go rancid rather quickly.  Rancid fats have
been implicated in increased rates of heart disease, atherosclerosis and
are carcinogenic (cancer causing) so we want to avoid them if possible.
     Oxygen is eight times more soluble in fat than in water and it is
the oxidation resulting from this exposure that is the primary cause of
rancidity.  The more polyunsaturated a fat is, the faster it will go
rancid.  This may not, at first, be readily apparent because vegetable
oils have to become several times more rancid than animal fats before
our noses can detect it.  An extreme example of rancidity is the linseed
oil (flaxseed) that we use as a wood finish and a base for oil paints.
In just a matter of hours the oil oxidizes into a solid polymer.  This
is very desirable for wood and paint, very undesirable for food.
     Because of this difficulty in storing fats and oils for any long
period of time many books and articles on the subject of food storage
make only passing mention of them, if they say anything at all.  This is
unfortunate because fat contains nine calories to the gram compared to
the four calories contained by either carbohydrates or protein.  This
makes fat a valuable source of concentrated calories that could be of
real importance if faced with a diet consisting largely of unrefined
grains and legumes.  For small children, infants and the elderly, they
may not be able to consume the volume of food that would be necessary in
the course of a day to get all of the calories they would need to avoid
weight loss and possible malnutrition.  Additionally, fats play an
important role in our perception of taste and texture and their absence
would make many foods more difficult to prepare and consume.
Furthermore, a small amount of dietary fat is necessary for our bodies
to properly absorb fat soluble vitamins like A,D,E and K.
     Long term storage of fats may be problematical, but it is not
impossible.  There are some general rules you can follow to get the most
life out of your stored cooking oils and fats.

    #1   Exposure to oxygen, light and heat are the greatest factors to
         rancidity.  If you can, refrigerate your stored oil,
particularly after it's been opened.  If possible, buy your oils in
opaque, airtight containers.  If you purchase it in plastic,
particularly clear plastic, then transfer it to a gas impermeable glass
or metal container that can be sealed airtight.  If you have a means of
doing so, vacuum sealing the storage container is an excellent idea as
it removes most of the air remaining inside, taking much of the oxygen
with it.  Transparent glass and plastic containers should be stored in
the dark, such as in a box.  Regardless of the storage container, it
should be stored at as cool a temperature as possible and rotated as
fast as is practical.  Oils and fats with preservatives added by the
manufacturer will have a greater shelf life than those without them,
provided they are fresh when purchased.

    #2   Unless they have been specially treated, unopened cooking oils
         have a shelf life of about a year, depending upon the above
conditions.  Some specialty oils such as sesame and flax seed have
shorter usable lives.  If you don't use a great deal of it, try to not
buy your fats in large containers.  This way you won't be exposing a
large quantity to the air after the you've opened it, to grow old and
possibly rancid, before you can use it all up.  Once opened, it is an
excellent idea to refrigerate cooking fats.  If it turns cloudy or
solid, the fat is still perfectly usable and will return to its normal
liquid, clear state after it has warmed to room temperature.  Left at
room temperatures, opened bottles of cooking oils can begin to rancid in
anywhere from a week to a couple of months, though it may take several
more months to reach such a point of rancidity that it can be smelled.

    #3    Although darker colored oils have more flavor than paler
         colored, the agents that contribute to that flavor and color
also contribute to faster rancidity.  For maximum shelf life buy paler
colored oils.

    #4   If you have no particular problem with using it, the culinary
         fat with the most shelf life as it comes from the store is
hydrogenated shortening in its unopened metal or metal lined can.  The
brand most familiar in the U.S. is probably Crisco, but there are many
others.  Solid shortening is usually composed of partially hydrogenated
vegetable oils, but there are some that also contain animal fats.  Some
brands will also contain anti-oxidant preservatives as well.  All other
conditions being equal, those with preservatives will have a longer
shelf life than those without.  It is not possible to give an exact
answer, but it is reasonable to expect an unopened metal can of
shortening to have a shelf life of eight to ten years if kept reasonably
cool, particularly if it has preservatives in it.


     E.2  EXTENDING SHELF LIFE BY ADDING ANTI-OXIDANTS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     If obtaining the maximum shelf life in your cooking oils is
important to you, it is possible to add anti-oxidant preservatives to
the fat after you have purchased it.  Used in conjunction with a gas
impermeable container, either opaque in color or stored in a dark place,
and cool storage temperatures (70 F or less) then shelf life can be
extended to about five years, possibly longer.
     The anti-oxidant in question is Butylated HydroxyToluene (BHT).  It
is used in the food industry to slow the development of off-flavors,
odors and color changes caused by oxidation, mostly in foods that are
high in fats and oils.  BHT is on the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration's Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) list as a common
preservative.  The FDA limits the use of BHT to 0.02% or 200 parts per
million (ppm) of the oil or fat content of a food product.  The
directions that I will be giving below will be for the FDA limit, but
there are those who choose to use up to ten times that amount as part of
their life extension programs.  The level you choose is up to you.
     BHT is available over the counter in the retail trade, but you have
to know where to look for it.  The only retail distributor of the
anti-oxidant that I am thus far aware of is

    Twin Laboratories (TwinLab),
    Ronkonkoma, NY 11779.

    Their BHT comes in the form of 250 mg gelatin capsules.  I've been
able to find their product in several local health food stores.  It is
also available through mail order sources, but I don't have any names or
addresses for that avenue yet.
     To get the best results you will need the freshest oil you can
find.  Purchasing it from a large, busy supermarket will probably
suffice.  You'll also need containers that are gas impermeable such as
glass jars, or metal cans.  There may be plastic containers with high
gas barrier properties that will also serve, but I cannot knowledgeably
say about this.  It is important that your containers are food grade and
are clean, dry and dust-free.
     Each 250 milligram capsule is sufficient to treat 47 fluid ounces
of cooking oil (as per the GRAS guidelines mentioned above).  If you
have an accurate means of weighing this works out to be 5.3 mg of BHT
crystals to every 1 fl oz of oil.  If you're using a scale calibrated in
grains, such as a reloading powder scale, you may use the following
table.


         BHT                                          BHT
     in grains               OIL                 in milligrams
     ---------------------------------------------------------
     0.1 grain           1 fl oz                   5.3 mg
     0.7 grain           8 fl oz (1 cup)          42.4 mg
     1.3 grain          16 fl oz (1 pint)         84.8 mg
     2.6 grain          32 fl oz (1 quart)       169.6 mg
     5.2 grain          64 fl oz (1/2 gal)       339.2 mg
     10.3 grain        128 fl oz (1 gal)         678.4 mg

    NOTE:     The grain weight measurements have been rounded up to the
nearest tenth grain since most powder scales will not accurately measure
less than one-tenth of a grain.

    IMPORTANT NOTE:     If you are using a reloading powder scale, be
sure the balance pan is clean and the balance has been calibrated
recently with a reliable set of check weights.

    Remove the BHT crystals from their gelatin capsules and weigh, if
you're going to.  Once you have the appropriate amount, add the crystals
to a pint or so of the oil, shaking vigorously.  It may take several
hours for the preservative to dissolve completely.  Bringing the oil up
to a warm, NOT HOT, temperature will speed the process.  Once completely
dissolved, pour the anti-oxidant laden oil into the rest of the oil and
mix thoroughly.  Once mixed, the oil can then be poured into its storage
containers leaving approximately 1/2 inch of headspace.  If you have a
vacuum sealer the jars or cans may be vacuum sealed to remove most of
the oxygen from the container, otherwise just seal the lid.  Store in a
cool place and if using transparent jars, be certain to put them in a
larger container such as a box to keep the contents in the dark.  Don't
forget to label and date the jars.
    There are other preservatives in food industry use that will also
work, but I have not yet discovered how they are used or where to get
them.  I'm currently looking for information on Butylated HydroxyAnisole
(BHA), propyl gallate, vitamin E (the tocopherols, natural and
synthetic), ascorbyl palmitate (a fat soluble form of vitamin C), citric
acid and mono-Tertiary-ButylHydroQuinone (TBHQ).  Additionally, certain
herbs and spices like cloves, rosemary, oregano, sage and vanilla also
have antioxidant properties, sometimes quite strong ones.  Being
strongly flavored, they are not suitable as preservatives in fats meant
for general use, but will lend their protective properties in any
recipes that call for them.
    Before I close out this section on fats and oils, please allow me
to reemphasize that no amount of preservatives that can be added to your
stored fats will substitute for proper storage and rotation.  The more I
research the chemistry and physiological effects of rancid fats the more
I come to believe they are bad news for long term health, particularly
as we grow older.  Don't sit on your oil supply for years without
rotating it.  Just a little bit rancid is just a little bit poisonous.
`Nuff said.
     

F. COOKING STAPLES 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     F.1  BAKING POWDER. 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     This powder is a combination of an acid and an alkali with starch
added to keep the other two ingredients stable and dry.  The powder
reacts with liquid by foaming and the resulting bubbles can aerate and
raise dough.  Almost all baking powder now on the market is double
acting, meaning it has one acid that bubbles at room temperature and
another acid which only reacts at oven temperatures.  Unless a recipe
specifies otherwise, this is the type to use.

     Don't expose baking powder to steam, humid air, wet spoons, or any
other moisture.  Store in a tightly lidded container for no more than a
year.  Even when kept bone dry it will eventually loses its potency.  To
test its strength, measure 1 tsp powder into 1/3 cup hot water.  The
mixture should fizz and bubble furiously.  If it doesn't, throw it out.

     For those folks concerned with aluminum in the diet, the Rumford
brand has none in it and there may be others.


     F.2  BAKING SODA.
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     This gritty powder is sodium bicarbonate also called sodium acid
bicarbonate (NaHCO3), a mild alkali.  It is used in baking to leaven
bread and other baked or fried foods and does so in the same manner as
baking powder.  It can also be used to make hominy.  When combined with
an acid ingredient, the bicarbonate reacts to give off carbon dioxide
bubbles which causes the baked good to rise.  If kept well sealed in an
air- and moisture-proof container its storage life is indefinite.  If
kept in the cardboard box it usually comes in, it will keep for about
eighteen months.  Do keep in mind that baking soda is a wonderful odor
adsorber.  If you don't want your baked goods tasting of whatever smells
it adsorbed then keeping it in an airtight container is an excellent
idea.
     

     F.3  HERBS AND SPICES.
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     It is difficult to give exact instructions on how best to store
culinary herbs and spices because there are dozens of different seeds,
leaves, roots, barks, etc., we call an herb or a spice.  There are,
however, some general rules to be followed to best preserve their
flavors.  All spices, particularly dried, are especially sensitive to
heat, air and light.  Room temperature is satisfactory for keeping them
and refrigeration or freezing is even better, but they should be kept
away from heat sources.  It is common for the household spice cabinet or
shelf to be located over the stove, but this is really a very poor
place.  Dark opaque glass is best for storage, but failing that, keeping
a tightly sealed glass container in a dark place is next best.  The
cellophane packets some products come in just won't do.  Tightly sealed
metal containers will work as well.  Even dense plastic will do, but
glass is best.

     Where possible, buy spices whole.  Whole nutmegs will keep their
flavor far longer than ground nutmeg, the same for other seeds and
roots.  You'll have to use a grater, grinder or whatever, but the
difference in flavor will be worth it.

     If you buy spices in bulk containers (which is certainly cheaper)
consider transferring some into smaller containers and keeping the
larger one tightly sealed in a cool, dark place.  This will prevent
unwanted light and air from continually getting in and playing havoc.

     Included in the suppliers addresses are listings for several spice
and herb companies.  The one I have personally dealt with so far is
Penzey's and their products have been consistently excellent with good
prices.  It's worth investigating some of these companies as they can
really take the sting out of purchasing large quantities.


     F.4  SALT.
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Storage life for salt is indefinite.  So long as you do not let it
get contaminated with dirt or whatever, it will never go bad.  Over
time, iodized salt may turn yellow, but this is harmless and may still
be used.  Salt is rather hygroscopic and will adsorb moisture from the
air if not sealed in an air-tight container.  If it does adsorb moisture
and cakes up, it can be dried in the oven and then broken up with no
harm done.

     All salt, however, is not the same.  Salt comes in a number of
different varieties, and very little of what is produced in the U.S. is
intended for use in food.  The rest of it, about 98%, has other uses.
Therefore, it is important to be certain the salt you have is intended
for human consumption.  Once you are satisfied it is, you should then
determine its appropriateness for the tasks to which you might want to
set it to.  Below is a partial list of some of the available salts


    TABLE SALT:    This is by far the most widely known type of salt.
                   It comes in two varieties; iodized and non-iodized.
There is an ingredient added to it to adsorb moisture so it will stay
free flowing in damp weather.  This non-caking agent does not dissolve
in water and can cause cloudiness in whatever solution it is used if
sufficiently large quantities are used.  In canning it won't cause a
problem since there is very little per jar.  For pickling, though, it
would be noticeable.  If you are storing salt for this purpose, you
should be sure to choose plain pickling salt, or other food grade pure
salt such as kosher salt.  In the iodized varieties, the iodine can
cause discoloration or darkening of pickled foods so be certain not to
use it for that purpose.  For folks who come from areas that are
historically iodine deficient a store of iodized salt for table
consumption is of real importance.


    CANNING SALT:  This is pure salt and nothing but salt.  It can
                   usually be found in the canning supplies section of
most stores.  This is the salt to be preferred for most food
preservation or storage uses.  It is generally about the same grain size
as table salt.


    KOSHER SALT:   This salt is not really, in itself, kosher, but is
                   used in "kashering" meat to make the flesh kosher for
eating.  This involves first soaking the meat then rubbing it with the
salt to draw out the blood which is not-kosher and is subsequently
washed off along with the salt.  The cleansed meat is then kosher.  What
makes it of interest for food storage and preservation is that it is
generally pure salt suitable for canning, pickling and meat curing.  It
is of a larger grain size than table or canning salt, and usually rolled
to make the grains flaked for easier dissolving.  Frequently it is
slightly cheaper than canning salt and usually easier to find in
urban/suburban areas.

    NOTE:     Not all brands of kosher salt are exactly alike.  Diamond
Crystal Kosher Salt is the only brand that I'm aware of that is not
flaked, but still in its unaltered crystal form.  The Morton brand of
Coarse Kosher Salt has "yellow prussiate of soda" added as an
anti-caking agent.  Morton still recommends it for pickling and even
gives a kosher dill recipe on the box so I presume that this particular
anti-caking agent does not cause cloudiness in pickling solutions.

    Whether flaked or in its unaltered crystal form, kosher salt takes
up more volume for an equivalent amount of mass than does canning salt.
If it is important to get a very precise amount of salt in your pickling
or curing recipe you may want to weigh the salt to get the correct
amount.

    SEA SALT: This type of salt comes in about as many different
              varieties as coffee and from about as many different
places around the world.  The "gourmet" versions can be rather
expensive.  In general, the types sold in grocery stores, natural food
markets and gourmet shops have been purified enough to use in food.
It's not suitable for food preservation, though, because the mineral
content it contains (other than the sodium chloride) may cause
discoloration of the food.


    ROCK or ICE    This type of salt comes in large chunky crystals and
    CREAM SALT:    is intended primarily for use in home ice cream
                   churns to lower the temperature of the ice filled
water in which the churn sits.  It's also sometimes used in icing down
beer kegs or watermelons.  It is used in food preservation by some, but
none of the brands I have been able to find label it as food grade nor
do they specifically mention its use in foods so I would not use it for
this purpose.


    SOLAR SALT:    This is also sometimes confusingly called "sea salt".
                   It is not, however, the same thing as the sea salt
found in food stores.  Most importantly, it is not food grade.  It's main
purpose is for use in water softeners.  The reason it is called "solar"
and sometimes "sea salt" is that it is produced by evaporation of sea
water in large ponds in various arid areas of the world.  This salt type
is not purified and still contains the desiccated remains of whatever
aquatic life might have been trapped in it.  Those organic remains might
react with the proteins in the foods you are attempting to preserve and
cause it to spoil.


    HALITE:   For those of us fortunate enough to live in areas warm
              enough not need it, halite is the salt that is used on
roads to melt snow and ice.  It, too, is not food grade and should not
be used in food preservation.  This form of salt is also frequently
called rock salt, like the rock salt above, but neither are suitable for
food use.


    SALT      These are various other kinds of metal salts such as
SUBSTITUTES:  potassium chloride used to substitute for the ordinary
              sodium chloride (NaCl) salt we are familiar with.  They
have their uses, but should not be used in foods undergoing a heated
preservation processing, as they can cause the product to taste bad.
Even the heat from normal cooking is sometimes sufficient to cause this.


     F.5  VINEGAR.
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     There is vinegar and then there is vinegar and it is not all alike.
The active ingredient in all vinegars is acetic acid, but how the sour
stuff was made can vary widely.  The most common vinegar is white
distilled which is actually just diluted distilled acetic acid and not
true vinegar at all.  It keeps pretty much indefinitely if tightly
sealed in a plastic or glass bottle with a plastic cap.  The enamel
coated metal caps always seem to get eaten by the acid over time.  It is
usually about 5-6% acetic acid and for pickling it is the type most
often called for.

     The next most common variety is apple cider vinegar.  There are two
kinds of this type.  A cider flavored distilled acetic acid type and a
true cider vinegar fermented from hard cider.  Either will store
indefinitely at room temperature until a sediment begins to appear on
the bottom.  Stored vinegar will sometimes develop a cloudy substance.
This is called a mother of vinegar and it is harmless.  As long as the
liquid does not begin to smell foul it can be filtered out through
cheesecloth or a coffee filter and rebottled in a clean container.  The
mother can even be used to make more vinegar.  If it begins to smell
bad, however, it's gone over and should be tossed out.

     The more exotic wine, balsalmic and other vinegars can be stored
like cider vinegar.  Age and exposure to light and air, however,
eventually begin to take their toll on their delicate flavors.  Tightly
capped in a cool, dark cabinet or refrigerator is best for their
storage.


     F.6  YEAST. 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Yeast is just not a product you can stow away and forget about
until you need it next year.  It is, after all, a living organism and if
it's not alive at the time you need it, you won't get any use out of it.
This ancient leavening, brewing, fermenting agent is a single celled
microscopic fungus.  When we incorporate it into our bread dough, beer
wort or fruit juice it begins to reproduce madly (we hope) and produce
several by-products.  If you're baking, the by-product you want is
carbon dioxide which is trapped by the dough and subsequently causes it
to rise.  In brewing or vintning what is wanted is the ethyl alcohol
and, if the drink is to be carbonated, the carbon dioxide as well.

     Almost all yeasts used for these purposes are in the same genus
("Saccharomyces" or sugar fungi), but several different species have
evolved and some are more suitable for a particular task than others.
It's entirely possible to use grocery store bread yeast to brew beer or
ferment wine, but the results may leave a great deal to be desired.
It's also possible to use yeast from beer brewing to make bread and from
what I've read the results were pretty much indistinguishable from bread
yeast.
     Leaving aside the brewing and vintning yeasts which are really
outside the scope of this FAQ I am going to concentrate on bread yeast.
It comes in two generally available forms; compressed or fresh and
dried, sometimes called granular or instant active dry yeast.  They are
different genetic strains of the same species, and have different
characteristics.
     Compressed yeast is only partly dried (about 70% moisture) and
requires refrigeration and keeps even better in the deep freeze.  If
kept in an air- and moisture-tight container to prevent it from
desiccating this type of yeast will keep for a year in the freezer
(0 deg. F or less), but only about two weeks (maybe a bit more) in the
refrigerator.  Unless your kitchen is rather chilly it will not keep on
the shelf.  It should not have a mottled color or a sour odor.
     Dried yeast has only an 8% moisture content and comes packed in
foil envelopes.  The smaller single use packets are not generally vacuum
packed, but the larger commercial sized "bricks" of about a pound or two
each generally are.  They can last for months on the shelf, until the
expiration date which should be clearly stamped on the package.  If
packaged in the same manner as recommended for compressed yeast above
and kept in the refrigerator or freezer it can last for several years.
The larger packs of yeast should be transferred to an air and moisture
tight container after opening.
     Either type of yeast can be tested for viability by proofing it.
This is nothing more than mixing a small amount of the yeast with an
equal amount of sugar in warm water (105-115 deg. F for dried;  95 deg.
F for fresh).  Within about five minutes active yeast will become bubbly
and begin to expand (at normal room temperature).  Yeast which only
slowly becomes active can still be used, but you will have to use more
of it.  If it shows no activity at all, it's dead and should be thrown
out.
     There is another means of providing yeast for baking besides buying
it from the grocery store and that is by using a sourdough starter.  I'm
not going to address it here, but I will point out that it has a
newsgroup all its own (rec.food.sourdough) and several FAQ's devoted to
it.  You can find addresses for these FAQs in the Resources section.
Drop in and read for awhile and you'll learn more than you thought you
could ever want to know.


G. INFANT FORMULA 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Since most folks interested in food storage are planning for
families, real or as yet hypothetical, I thought it important to include
something on infant formula.  Most baby food that comes in jars can be
treated like canned goods of similar types meant for adults.  Formula,
though, is something else.  I have to admit, that not yet having kids of
my own, I've not given this much thought before so the below is taken
from the book KEEPING FOOD FRESH, by Janet Bailey (see book list).  In
the future, if some of you readers will send it to me and/or I come up
with more information from my own researches I want to expand this
section on infant/child food storage.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

     Prepared infant formula is primarily water and nonfat cow's milk.
Among other ingredients, it contains sweeteners; sometimes lactose which
is milk sugar; and sometimes corn syrup or other sugars.  Coconut and
soybean oils are common; vitamin and mineral supplements are universal.
A few brands contain mono- and diglycerides, chemicals that keep the
liquid from separating.

     BUYING AND STORING INFANT FORMULA.  Canned liquid infant formula
comes either ready to eat or in a concentrate to be diluted with water.
Cans and packing cases are clearly marked with a "use by" date.

     Unopened cans stored in a cool, dry place keep well from twelve to
eighteen months (longer than the baby is an infant).
     After the can is opened, measure out the amount of formula you
need, cover the can and store in the refrigerator.  It will keep no more
than 48 hrs at 40 deg. F.  Never return leftover formula from the bottle
to the storage container and do not store half used bottles.
     You can pre-measure the whole can-full into sterilized baby
bottles, seal them, and store them in the refrigerator, but forty eight
hours is still the limit.  To keep full bottles from tipping over in the
refrigerator, slip them into a carton from a six-pack of soda pop
bottles.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

     In examining the offerings at my local grocer I see that infant
formula is also offered as a dry powder to be mixed by the parent.  I
could not come to a ready idea of how long the formula powder might be
good on the shelf since it seemed to vary radically depending on exact
type and manufacturer.  The shortest use-by date was only a year, but
some had use-by dates three years into the future.  Clearly, this is an
area that is going to need much investigation.  I hope some of our
knowledgeable readers out there will be able to help out.


=======================================================================
                               -- III --
                               SPOILAGE
=======================================================================
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

A --  INSECT INFESTATIONS 

     A.1  PESTS OF STORED GRAINS, LEGUMES AND DRY FOODSTUFFS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Insect infestations can occur in a wide variety of foodstuffs such
as flours, meals, pastas, dried fruits and vegetables, nuts, sweets,
whole grains, beans, sugars, TVP, jerky, bird seed and pet foods.

     Naturally, the best way to deal with an insect infestation is not
to have one in the first place.  Try to purchase from suppliers who are
clean and have a high volume of turnover of their products.  This will
mean the products you purchase will be less likely to have bugs in them.
     When you buy foodstuffs examine them closely to be sure they are
insect free.  Check for any packaging or use by dates to insure their
freshness.  Don't shake the package, most adult insects will be found in
the top couple of inches of the product and shaking the package will mix
them into the contents and disguise them.  If the package does turn out
to be infested, return it for replacement.
     Once you have purchased the product you should store it in an air-
and moisture-tight container so it cannot be invaded after you have
brought it home.  With sufficient time, adult and some larval insect
forms can penetrate paper, cardboard and thin plastic packaging.  Your
containers should be either heavy plastic, glass or metal with tight
fitting lids.  As with everything in food storage, you should use older
packages before newer ones and opened packages before unopened ones.
     The storage area should be kept clean.  Don't allow grain, flour,
beans, bits of pasta or other food particles to accumulate on shelves or
the floor.  Cracks and crevices should be sealed or otherwise blocked.
Unless it is a sticky spill, vacuuming is the best method of cleaning
since cleaning with soap and water can wash food particles into the
cracks.
     Insects may get their start in chairs, sofas and carpets where food
is dropped and not cleaned up.  Don't forget to replace the filter bag
on the vacuum since some insects can survive and reproduce in the bag
after they've been sucked into it.
     Bags of dry pet food and bird seed can also harbor insect
infestation.  Decorative foodstuffs such as ears of colorful Indian
corn, colored beans and hard squashes can carry insects that can infest
your edible food.  Even poison baits can harbor flour beetles.


     A.2 CONTROL OF INSECT INFESTATIONS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Should you find that in spite of buying fresh products and using
careful packaging techniques you have an insect infestation, you can try
some of the following steps:

    1.   If the food is too heavily infested to try to save it should be
         disposed of as soon as possible.  Remove it from the kitchen or
food storage area immediately so it won't infest other foods.

    2.   Large bugs can be sifted or winnowed out if the food's not too
         heavily infested and you want to try to save it.  Then treat it
by placing into a deep freezer at 0 deg. F for three to seven days
depending upon the size of the package.  Refrigerator freezers usually
do not freeze low enough to effectively kill all of the life stages of
insects, but if left there, will slow their development.  If freezing is
not workable then the product could be spread on baking sheets and
heated to 150 deg. F for fifteen to twenty minutes,  cooled and
repackaged. Heat treated foods should be consumed shortly thereafter.

    3.   The surface areas where the food containers are stored can be
         treated with an insecticide.  This is not a replacement for
clean storage habits and good containers, but it can supplement it.
This will not control insect infestations already in your stored foods.

     Spray the shelf surface with 0.5% chlorpyrifos (Dursban), 1%
propoxur (Baygon), 0.5 percent diazinon, or 0.25 percent resmethrin.
You can find any of these in the hardware store in ready to apply
packages.  If a sprayer isn't feasible then they can be applied with a
paint brush.  Allow the solution to dry thoroughly.  Cover the shelves
with clean, untreated shelf paper and put properly packaged foods back
on shelves.  READ THE PRODUCT LABEL FOR SAFETY INFORMATION CONCERNING
CHILDREN AND PETS.
     Household bleach, Lysol and other sterilizers will not control
insect infestation, though they can be used for mold, mildew and algae.
     You may continue to find some insects after the cleanup is
finished.  This could be for several reasons.  The first being they
escaped from the packages they were infesting and did not get cleaned
up.  There may be more packages infested than were originally realized
or, there may be hiding places in the storage area that need attention.
Once you have carefully eliminated all food sources, the bugs should
disappear in three to four weeks.


B -- MOLDS IN FOOD 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Molds are fungi just like mushrooms and yeast.  Also like
mushrooms, they reproduce by releasing spores into the air that land on
everything, including your food and food storage containers.  If those
spores begin to grow, they create thin threads that spread through out
their growing medium.  These threads are the roots of the mold fungus,
called "mycelium".  The stalk of a mold fungus is the portion above or
on the surface of the food.  It produces the spores and gives the mold
its color.  We've all seen examples of this when we discover a dish of
something or other left way-y-y too long in the refrigerator and has
become covered in mold fuzz.
     Molds can grow anywhere they have a growing medium (their food),
sufficient moisture and enough warmth.  Some can even grow at
refrigerator temperatures, albeit more slowly than they would if it were
warmer.  They can also withstand much more salt and sugar than bacteria,
which is why you sometimes find mold in jellies and jams with their high
sugar content and on cured products like ham or bacon with their high
salt content.
     In the past, it was often felt a slight amount of mold was harmless
and the food could be consumed anyway.  For molds that were
intentionally introduced into the food, such as the mold in bleu cheese,
this is just fine.  For the unintentional molds, it can be a very
serious error in judgment.  These unwanted molds might just be producing
a toxic substance called a "mycotoxin" which can be very bad indeed.
Mycotoxins are produced around the root or mycelium of the mold and the
mold roots can penetrate very deeply into the food.  These mycotoxins
can survive for a long time in foods, and unfortunately most are not
destroyed by cooking.  The molds probably best known for this are the
various Aspergillus varieties which produces a mycotoxin known as
"aflatoxin", but there are other dangerous molds as well, such as the
Fusarium molds.  Both of the above affect grain and some legumes.  See
B.3 Molds In Grains and Legumes.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    In wet pack foods such as your home canned goodies,
                   molds can do something else as well, possibly leading
to lethal consequences.  If they find their way into wet pack acid foods
canned by the boiling water bath method, whether by reasons of improper
procedure or contamination after the fact, they can consume the natural
acids present in the food.  The effect of this is to raise the pH of the
food in the container, perhaps to the point that it becomes possible for
spores of *Clostridium botulinum*, better known as "botulism", to become
active and reproduce.  If you're not already aware of the consequences
of botulism poisoning, please read the bacterial spoilage section below
where it has an entry all its own.  This is the most deadly kind of food
poisoning there is.  For this reason, moldy wet pack foods should be
*safely* discarded.

     Molds in low acid foods canned by the pressure canning method are
equally dangerous and should also be discarded in a safe manner.


     B.1  MINIMIZING MOLDS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     You can do a number of things to minimize unwanted mold growth in
your kitchen, food storage areas and refrigerators.  If your kitchen is
at all like mine, it is the refrigerator that is going to collect the
most fungal growth.  This can be dealt with by washing the inside every
couple of months with a tablespoon of baking soda dissolved in a quart
of warm water.  Rinse clean and allow to dry.  The black mildew that
grows on the rubber door gaskets and other places can be dealt with by
wiping down with a solution of three tablespoons of household bleach in
a quart of water.  I generally use a soft bristle brush for this.
     The rest of the kitchen can be kept mold free by keeping it clean,
and dry and by spraying occasionally with a product such as Lysol.
Patches of mold growing in spots can be eliminated with the bleach
solution used on the refrigerator doors.
     Try not to purchase more fresh food than you'll be able to eat in a
short period of time.  This will keep you from having to deal with the
moldy remains that didn't get eaten.  If food does go moldy, don't sniff
it.  This is a good way to give yourself respiratory difficulties if you
are at all susceptible to mold allergies.  Moldy food should be disposed
in such a manner that your animals and children won't be able to get
into it.  Mycotoxins are every bit as bad for your animals as they are
for you.
     Obviously, you don't have to throw out everything that shows a spot
of mold on it.  Some foods can be safely dealt with and still partially
saved if they show signs of fungal growth.  Below is a set of guideline
from M. Susan Brewer, Ph.D., R.D., a specialist in food safety.  Her
articles and works are found in many state university extension services
publications lists.


    If the food shows even a tiny mold spot, follow these guide lines:

1.  Hard or firm foods with tiny mold spots can be trimmed; cut away the
    area around the mold (at least an inch) and rewrap in clean wrap.
    Make sure that knife does not touch the mold.

2.  Soft foods such as cheese slices, cream cheese, sour cream and
    yogurt should be thrown away.


          TOSS:

     Soft Cheeses, (Mozzarella, Brie, etc.)
     Sour Cream, Yogurt, Cottage cheese
     Bacon, Hot dogs, Sliced lunch meats
     Meat pies
     Opened canned ham
     Most left-over food
     Bread, Cakes, rolls, flour, pastry
     Peanut butter
     Juices, berries
     Jam, Jellies, Syrups
     Cucumbers, Tomatoes
     Spinach, Lettuce, other leafy vegetables
     Bananas, Peaches, Melons
     Corn-on-the-cob
     Stored nuts, whole grains, rice


          TRIM:
     Hard Cheese (Cheddar, Swiss, etc.)
     Bell Peppers, Carrots, Cabbage
     Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts
     Garlic, Onions
     Potatoes, Turnips
     Zucchini
     Apples, Pears


     B.2  MOLDS IN CANNED GOODS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     If good equipment and proper technique are used, then it is
unlikely you will ever have mold growth in your unopened canned goods.
If you do have such, then there was either a flaw in the procedure you
used, or something affected the jar or can after the fact to break its
seal.  In any event, once the food has molded, it is past saving and
should be discarded in such a way that children and animals will not be
able to get into it.  The most likely home canned products to show mold
growth are jams and jellies sealed with paraffin wax.

    There are a number of points in the canning process where this can
    occur:

    (1)  In the time after the jar is taken out of its boiling water
         bath, but before it is filled.

    (2)  In the time between when the jar is filled and covered with the
         melted wax.

    (3)  When the wax cools, if it pulls away from the side of the jar,
         leaving an opening for the mold to get in.

    (4)  If bubbles form in the paraffin, which break and leave holes.

     It is for this reason that most canning authorities no longer
recommend using this technique.  If you must use it, the jelly jars
should be boiled for at least 10 minutes before the jelly is poured into
the jars.  The filled and wax capped jars should then be covered with
some sort of protective lid.  The book, Putting Food By has excellent
instructions on this or see the applicable section of the
rec.food.preserving FAQ by Leslie Basel.


     B.3 MOLDS IN GRAINS AND LEGUMES
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     It's long been known that eating moldy grain is bad for your
health.  The ugly consequences of eating ergot-infected rye probably
make the best known example.  It's only been for about thirty years,
though, that intensive study of these grain fungi have been carried out
on other varieties of molds and their respective mycotoxins.
Fortunately, for those of us in the U.S., the USDA and the various state
departments of agriculture go to a great deal of trouble to detect grain
and legumes infected with these toxic fungi.  In some of the less
developed countries, the citizenry are not so lucky.  Still, it is good
to have something of an understanding of what one should do to prevent
mold growth in one`s stored grains and to have an idea of what to look
for and ask about when purchasing grains and legumes.
     The one fungal type that has caused the most commotion in recent
history are the various "Aspergillus" species of molds. Under certain
conditions with certain grains, legumes, and to a lesser extent, nuts,
they can produce a mycotoxin called "aflatoxin".  This is a serious
problem in some parts of the world, most especially in peanuts,
occasionally in corn.  I am not aware of any documented deaths in the
United States from aflatoxicity, but other nations have not been so
fortunate.  What makes aflatoxin so worrisome in this country is that it
is also a very potent carcinogen (cancer causing agent).
     In addition to the Aspergillus molds, there is also a very large
family of molds called "Fusarium" and these can produce a wide variety of
mycotoxins, all of which you do not want to be eating directly or
feeding to your food animals where you will get the toxins back
indirectly when you eat them.
     The Federal government and the various state governments
continuously monitor food and forage crops.  Those products which are
prone to mold growth and toxin production are not allowed to be sold for
food.  Once purchased however, it is up to you to keep your food safe
from mold growth.  If you have already found mold growth in your whole
grains, meals, flours or other grain products, they should be discarded.
Most mycotoxins are not broken down or destroyed by cooking temperatures
and there is no safe way to salvage grain that has molded.


     B.3.1 PREVENTING MOLD GROWTH IN STORED GRAINS AND LEGUMES
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     The easiest method to prevent mold growth in your stored grains and
legumes is simply to keep them too dry for the mold to grow.  The
Aspergillus and Fusarium molds require moisture contents of 18% and
above to reproduce.  This is subject to some variability, but in all
grains and soybeans, they must have a moisture content of that level.
If you are storing raw (not roasted) peanuts, in the shell or shelled,
you want to get the moisture content to less than 8% as peanuts are
particularly susceptible to mold growth.  The recommended moisture
content for all other grain and legume storage is no more than 10%.
*Please see part 2.A.3.1 Grains and Legumes for a method to determine
moisture content.*  At 10% moisture, it is simply too dry for fungi to
grow.  *Please see 1.A.4 Storing Grains and Legumes for a suitable
packaging technique.*


C -- BACTERIAL SPOILAGE 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Just like the fungi, bacteria are everywhere.  They're in the
water, soil, air, on you, your food and your food storage containers.
Fortunately, the vast majority of the bacteria we encounter are
relatively harmless or even benign and only a few represent a danger to
us and our stored foods.
     Bacteria can be very much more difficult to kill off than molds and
insects.  Some of them are capable of continued growth at temperatures
that would kill other spoilage organisms.  When conditions are such that
they are unable to grow, some bacteria can go dormant and form spores.
These spores can be quite hardy, even to the point of surviving a
rolling boil.
     In order to grow, bacteria need moisture, some as little as a 20%
moisture content.  For dry grains, legumes, powdered milk and other low
moisture foodstuff bacterial spoilage will seldom be a problem so long
as the moisture level in the foodstuff remains too scant to support its
growth.  For this reason, it is imperative that such products be drier
than 20% and preferably below 10% to ward off mold growth as well.  The
botulism bacterium needs moisture in the 35% range to grow.  Thus,
making being sure of the moisture content of the food products you want
to store, and appropriately using desiccants in your food packaging are
also excellent ideas.

WARNING: It is in wet pack canned goods (where the container has
         free liquid in it) and fresh foods we must be the most
concerned about spoilage bacteria.  It is here that a little bad luck
and a moment's inattention to what you are doing could kill or seriously
injure you or some other person who eats the foods you've put by.  In
both home-canned and commercially-canned goods, IF THE CAN IS BULGING,
LEAKING, SMELLS BAD, OR SPEWS LIQUID WHEN YOU OPEN IT THEN THROW IT OUT!
But, throw it out safely so that children and animals cannot get into
it.


     C.1  BOTULISM 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     *Clostridium botulinum* is one of the oldest life forms found on
the planet.  Like the gangrene bacteria, it is an anaerobic organism
meaning it lives and grows in the absence of free oxygen.  It forms
spores when conditions are not suitable for it to grow and it is
commonly found in the soil.  This means it can be brought into your life
on raw produce, tools, hands or anything else that came into contact
with dirt.  To further complicate matters, botulinum spores are
extremely heat-hardy.  The bacteria itself can be killed by exposing
them for a short time to boiling water (212 deg. F AT SEA LEVEL
PRESSURE), but their spores can not.  To kill them, the food product and
container must be exposed to temperatures of 240 deg. F (AGAIN AT SEA
LEVEL PRESSURE) for a long enough period of time to allow all of the
food in each container to come completely up to the proper temperature.
Only a pressure- canner can reach the necessary temperature.

     It's not the bacteria or its spores which are directly deadly, but
the toxin the bacteria creates when it grows and reproduces.  In its
pure form, botulism toxin is so potent that a mere teaspoon of it would
be enough to provide a fatal dose to hundreds of thousands of people.
It is this lethality that is why every responsible book on canning, food
preservation, food storage, and the like hammers constantly on the need
for care in technique and method and why spoilage must be taken so
seriously.

     C. botulinum, like any other life form, must have suitable
conditions for it to grow and become a danger to you.  One of the
conditions it must have is a suitable pH range in its environment.
pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a substance and is
measured on a scale of 1-14 with anything above 7 being considered
alkaline and everything below 7 being considered acid.  If the pH of
your wet pack food is BELOW 4.6 then botulism is unable to grow.  Keep
in mind pH is not eternal in foods and it is possible for it to change.
If it should change to a lesser acidity than 4.6 pH your previously
botulinum proof food may start allowing the lethal spoiler to grow (see
B.2, molds in canned goods).  This is why it is vital to use proper
technique, even for acid foods like tomatoes.  It has been found that
when this occurs and botulinum becomes active and produces its lethal
toxin it also produces minute amounts of acid which can lower the pH of
the poisoned food back into what should have been the safe zone had the
pH not jumped up and allowed the bacteria to grow.  Again and again --
use good technique and pay attention to what you are doing.

     Botulinum toxin, unlike fungal mycotoxins, can be destroyed by
boiling the food briskly in an open vessel for fifteen minutes.  Because
of this, if your canned food shows any safety problems you should follow
this procedure.  If the food shows even the slightest mold growth, keep
in mind that mycotoxins are not for the most part broken down by heat
and dispose of the food safely.

     I don't intend to go into the hows of home canning here.  For that
I strongly recommend that you read the *r.f.p. FAQ*, the *Ball Blue
Book* and most especially the book *Putting Food By* for in depth
information on this subject.


     C.2 OTHER BACTERIAL SPOILERS OF FOOD
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     This section will be in a future version of this FAQ.


D -- ENZYMATIC ACTION IN FOOD SPOILAGE 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Every living organism uses enzymes of many sorts in its bodily
functions as part of its normal life cycle.  Enzymes are used in
creating life.  After death, enzymes play a role in the decomposition of
once living tissue.  The enzymes in a tomato help it to ripen and
enzymes produced by the tomato and whatever fungal and bacterial
spoilers are on it cause it to decay.

     Fortunately, slowing down or stopping the action of a food's
enzymes is much easier to do than slowing or stopping some of the
bacterial spoilers mentioned above.  Enzymes are most active in a
temperature range between 85-120 deg. F and begin to be destroyed when
the temperature goes above 140 deg.F.  Cold also slows down the action
of enzymes, which is why fresh tomatoes last longer in the refrigerator
than they do on the kitchen table.  Most enzymatic action also requires
moisture to occur.  In foods stored at 10% moisture or less, there is
not enough moisture for most enzymes to be active.


=======================================================================
                                -- IV --
                      SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT QUESTIONS
=======================================================================
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

A -- STORAGE CONTAINERS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     A.1  WHAT IS FOOD GRADE PACKAGING?  

     Q:  OK, I'm ready to start my storage program.  What should I put
         the food in?

     A:  You should use food grade packaging for storing anything you
intend to eat.  A food grade container is one that will not transfer
noxious or toxic substances into the food it is holding.  If you are
uncertain whether a package type is food grade you can contact the
manufacturer.  Ask if that particular container is (US) FDA approved
meaning that it is safe for food use.  When inquiring be sure to specify
the characteristics of the food you are storing; wet, dry, strongly
acidic or alkaline, alcoholic or a high fat content.  A container that
is approved for one of the above types of food may not be approved for
another.

     The major functions of a food storage container are to:

    #1.  Protect its contents from outside environmental influences such
    as moisture, and oxygen, but possibly also heat or cold, light,
    insects and/or rodents as well.

    #2.  Prevent damage during handling and shipping.

    #3.  Establish and/or maintain microbiological stability.  The
    container should not allow microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria
    from outside the container to come into contact with its contents.
    This is of critical importance to wet-pack foods such as canned
    vegetables, fruits and meats.

    #4.  Withstand the temperatures and pressures it will be exposed to.
    This is necessary if the contents are to be pasteurized or
    sterilized, either immediately before or after filling.  It must not
    have any structural failures nor release any noxious or toxic
    breakdown chemicals into the food it contains.  This is the reason
    why purpose built canning jars are recommended for home canning and
    mayonnaise jars aren't.  The former are made heavier to withstand
    high temperatures and handling whereas the latter are not and have
    an increased risk of breakage if used for that purpose.

    Virtually all containers used in home food preservation involving
exposure to high temperatures are made of glass or metal, with the
exception of some specialized "heat & seal" type of plastic bags.  Glass
can be used with any food type providing it is clean and in sound
condition, but metal cans are more specialized.  They must be intended
for food use and must also have a lining or coating of the inside that
is suitable for the pH level of the food it will be in contact with.

    If the foods are not subjected to some form of heat processing just
before or after packaging your selection of container types for home use
is a great deal larger.  Virtually any kind of clean, sound glass jar
can be used and many types of new metal containers.  Several sorts of
plastics have become popular.  These various kinds of plastics are each
suited for different purposes, making selection a more complex task.


     A.1.1  WHERE DO I FIND FOOD GRADE CONTAINERS? 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

    Food grade packaging is everywhere.  Every time you go into the
grocery store you are surrounded by it.  Many well known companies such
as Tupperware and Rubbermaid manufacture and sell empty packaging for
the express purpose of containing repackaged foods.  The kinds of
containers you are interested in and the types of foods you want to put
in those containers will dictate where you need to look for a particular
packaging system.

    For food storage purposes most folks are usually interested in five
and six gallon plastic pails, glass jars from pint to gallon sizes,
metal containers such as the institutional sized #10 cans, and Mylar or
other high barrier property plastic bags.  Those are the containers most
often used, but virtually anything that can protect foods from outside
environmental influences, safely contain something you're going to later
eat and have a volume capacity large enough to be worthwhile may be
used.

    A number of food storage retailers such as those listed in the
Resources section sell plastic buckets, Mylar bags and a few even sell
new #10 cans with lids.  It may also be possible to purchase #10 cans
through the LDS Family Canneries and dealers such as Lehman's Hardware
Cumberland General Store or Home Canning Specialty and Supply.  On the
local scene, plastic five gallon buckets are widely available, but only
if you purchase them through a restaurant or commercial foods supply
house will you likely be able to tell if they're safe to keep food in.
If you can locate a customer service number for the manufacturer you can
call them and ask.  Many times manufacturers will make products that are
FDA approved and sell them as general purpose containers, but you need
to call to be sure.

    Packaging supply houses, such as United States Plastics and others,
have large FDA approved packaging lines.  Several such companies are
listed in the Resources section and a bit of detective work can probably
turn up more.  Some require minimum orders and others don't.  The cost
of shipping the containers will probably play a major role in your
decision making.  If you are going to package a great deal of food all
at once, perhaps for a group of people, some of the companies that
require minimum purchases can sometimes save you a fair amount of money
and supply packaging you might otherwise have a difficult time finding.
Some time spent searching the Thomas Register, available both online
(http://www12.thomasregister.com ) and in library reference sections,
might turn up some valuable leads.

     For glass jars, don't overlook flea markets, yard sales, thrift
shops and similar places.  Canning jars can sometimes be had for very
little.  Delicatessens, sub shops and restaurants of all sorts can be a
source of one gallon glass jars formerly containing pickles, peppers,
etc.  If the lids are still in good condition, they are well suited to
bulk storage and can be reused over and over.

    Metal cans, by and large, are not reusable for good storage, but
some companies might be able to sell you new cans.  The traditional
single use #10 can is only the beginning of what might be available with
a little looking.  Gallon sized or larger cans with double friction lids
(like paint comes in) make excellent storage containers and some
companies make them food safe.  One gallon and larger cans with wide
diameter screw caps are available from some companies as well.  You
might have seen some of these holding edible oils, soy sauce, honey and
other liquid food.  If they come with a cap that will seal air tight
they would be well suited for bulk storage of grains and legumes,
particularly if they come in a four to six gallon size.

     Pick up you local phone book, log on to your favorite search engine
or head to your local public, college or university library and explore
the possibilities.  Make it clear that what you want must be FDA
approved and be up front about how many you need or can deal with.  If
one company won't deal with you, try another. You'll eventually get what
you want.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Denis DeFigueiredo ddefig@newhall.com
Originally posted in: rec.food.preserving

     I called Berlin [eds. note, a plastic container mfgr.] 1-800-
4-BERLIN and spoke to them, plus an outfit called Kirk Container (they
manufactured some 5 gallon paint buckets I saw in the local hardware
store).  Both places said that buckets made from High Density
PolyEthelene (HDPE) are approved for food.  It has to do with the
possibility of interaction between any chemicals in the food and the
plastic.  As it turns out, Kirk manufactures only one kind of bucket,
and then markets it for paint, hardware, food, etc.  The price is right
on the "paint buckets" - much cheaper than the local restaurant supply
house.

     High density polyethelene buckets will have HDPE stamped on them,
or a recycle symbol with a "2" in the middle.

DISCLAIMER:  I'm only passing on information I received from the
manufacturers. I am in no way professing these things to be absolute
fact!


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jenny S. Johanssen" johanssen@matnet.com
Originally posted in:  rec.food.preserving

     Denis - saw your comments on food grade buckets and thought I'd
offer my solution.  My son cooks at a local Mexican restaurant.  They
get all their strawberries (for the strawberry magaritas at the bar) in
3 gallon plastic buckets.  Now you know how many margaritas pass through
a Mexican bar each night - lots.  So I asked my son to save me some
buckets.  They are ideal for storing flour, rice, I made (from my home
grown raspberries) a delicious raspberry cordial in one of the buckets,
another I made Raspberry wine in.  My motto is why buy when you can
recycle!  Thanks for giving me the time and space to add my two-bits
worth. -  Jenny


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From:  Woody Harper lager@primenet.com
Originally posted: rec.food.preserving

     ...I get topping buckets from Dairy Queen and I have to make sure
there is no trace of the strawberry syrup left.  A little detergent and
elbow grease followed by a chlorine solution bath keep everything nice
and clean.--


     A.2  PLASTIC PACKAGING
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Before we can intelligibly discuss plastic packaging it is
necessary to understand what the substance we call "plastic" is.
Plastics are produced from basic polymers called "resins", each of which
have differing physical properties.  Additives may be blended in to
color them or to modify particular properties such as moldability,
structural properties, resistance to light or heat or oxidation.
Additionally, it is common for several different kinds of plastic to be
laminated together each performing a particular desired task.  One might
offer structural rigidity and the other might be more impermeable to the
transfer of gasses and odors.  When bonded together a rigid, gas
impermeable package can be made.
     Whether that package is safe for food use will depend on the exact
nature of the additives blended into the plastic.  Some of them, notably
plasticizers and dyes, can migrate from the packaging material into the
food it's containing.  This may be exacerbated by the nature of the food
it's in contact with especially if it is high fat, strongly acidic or
alcoholic in particular.  Time and temperature may also play a prominent
role in the migration of plastic additives into food.  For this reason,
the (US) FDA assesses the safety of packaging materials for food contact
and conducts toxicological studies to establish safety standards.  Only
plastics that are FDA approved for a particular food type should be used
for direct contact with that food.
     Just being FDA approved, however, may not be all of the story.  It
must still be determined whether the particular plastic in question has
the physical properties that would make it desirable for your purpose.
     As mentioned above each base resin has somewhat differing physical
properties that may be modified with additives or combined by laminating
with another plastic or even completely unrelated materials such as
metal foils.  An example of this is "Mylar", a type of polyester film.
By itself, it has moderate barrier resistance to moisture and oxygen.
When laminated together with aluminum foil it has very high resistance
and makes an excellent material for creating long term food storage
packaging.  One or more other kinds of plastic with low melting points
and good flow characteristics are typically bonded on the opposite side
of the foil to act as a sealant ply so that the aluminized Mylar can be
fashioned into bags or sealed across container openings. The combined
materials have properties that make them useful for long term storage
that each separately do not have.
     Probably the most common plastic that raises suitability questions
is High Density PolyEthylene (HDPE).  It's used in a wide array of
packaging and is the material that most plastic five and six gallon
buckets are made of.  It has a moderate rigidity, a good resistance to
fats, oils, moisture and impacts, a fair resistance to acids, but is a
poor barrier to oxygen.
     Whether it is suitable for your purpose depends on how sensitive to
oxygen exposure your product is and how long you need it to stay in
optimal condition.  Foods such as whole grains are not particularly
delicate in nature and will easily keep for years in nothing more than a
tightly sealed HDPE bucket.  Most legumes are the same way, but those
that have high fat contents such as peanuts and soybeans are more
sensitive to O2.  Other foods such as dry milk powder might only go a
year before deleterious changes are noticed.  If that milk were sealed
in an air-tight aluminized Mylar bag with the oxygen inside removed, the
milk would probably go for two years or more.  Better still would be to
seal the milk in a metal can or glass jar.  HDPE can still be used for
long term storage, but with one or more of the following precautions to
keep a high food quality:  The food should either be put on a shorter
rotation cycle than packaging also using a second gas barrier such as
Mylar; be periodically opened and re-purged or fresh absorbers should be
inserted.
     Some special plastics and plastic laminates have excellent oxygen
and moisture barrier properties and are eminently suited to long term
storage, but for home use they are not easy to find, though some used
containers might be available for reuse..


     A.2.1  HOW DO I GET THE ODOR OUT OF PICKLE BUCKETS?
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     I've had fairly good luck doing it in the following way.  Since
vinegar is the primary smell in pickles and it's acidic, we used a base
to counteract it.  First we scrubbed the bucket well, inside and out,
with Dawn dish detergent.  Most any sort will do.  Then we filled the
buckets with hot water and dissolved a cup of baking soda in each.  Stir
well, get the bucket as full as you can and put the top on.  Put the
bucket in the sun to keep it warm so the plastic pores stay open as much
as possible.  In a couple of days come back and empty the buckets.
Rinse them out, fill with warm water again and add about a cup of bleach
and reseal.  Put back in the sun for another couple of days.  Empty out
and let dry with the tops off.  We completely eliminated the vinegar
smell this way.  It might be possible to cut the time down a lot, but we
haven't experimented that much since we can't get that many pickle
buckets.


     A.3  METAL CANS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Metal cans and glass jars being heat resistant, can both be used
for heat processed, wet-pack foods and for non-heat treated dry pack
canning.  For wet foods, however, metal cans have several disadvantages
for the do-it-yourselfer.  They are hard to come by, and they take
specialized equipment to use that can be difficult to locate.  Probably
the greatest flaw which makes them unpopular for home canning heat
processed wet-pack food is that they can only be used once.  Since the
commercial canning industry is not interested in reusing the containers,
metal cans make great sense for their purposes.  The cans are both
cheaper (for them) and lighter than glass jars.  This adds to the
economy of scale that makes canned foods as cheap as they are in the
grocery store.

     For home canning, wet-pack heat processed foods glass jars are
better because even the smallest of towns will usually have at least one
business that carries pressure and boiling water canners along with
jars, rings and lids.  With metal cans a can sealer is necessary and
this usually has to be ordered from the manufacturer or a mail-order
distributor.  A few of which are listed in the Resources section.

     Metal cans are not really made entirely of tin.  They're actually
steel cans with a tin coating on the inside and outside.  Some kinds of
strongly colored acidic foods will fade in color from long exposure to
tin so a type of enamel liner called "R- enamel" is used to forestall
this.  Certain other kinds of food that are high in sulfur or that are
close to neutral in pH will also discolor from prolonged contact with
tin.  For those foods, cans with "C-enamel" are used.

     The excellent food preservation book, *Putting Food By* Chapter 6
(see reference list) has a section on the use of metal cans for wet
packed foods.

     It is in dry-pack canning that metal cans for home use begin to
come into their own.  Because microbiological sterilization isn't
necessary, foods that are dry packed into containers do not have to be
subjected to heat processing nor does the safety of their seals depend
upon the vacuum that the cooling contents create.  This means that other
packaging methods and container types may be used.

     Probably the most common use of metal containers is the #10 cans
such as are used by the LDS family canneries discussed below. This is
not the only way they may be used though.  It will probably take a bit
of searching, but there are various food grade metal containers
available of sufficient volume to make them useful for food storage.
They usually have double friction lids similar to paint cans or screw
caps like jars that can achieve an air-tight seal.  If you can find them
in a large enough volume capacity they can be of real use for storing
bulky foods such as grains, legumes and sugar.  Smaller cans of a gallon
or less would be useful for storing items like dry milks.  If properly
sealed, metal cans have a far higher barrier resistance to gasses such
as oxygen, CO2, and nitrogen than any plastic.

     Although they can hardly be considered portable the use of metal
drums (not garbage or trash cans), either themselves food grade or used
with food grade liners, is also a possibility.  A fifty five gallon drum
full of grain will weigh several hundred pounds, but may make for a much
easier storage solution than multiple buckets.  The advantage of using
such a large container is that a great amount of a single product can be
kept in a smaller amount of space and fumigating or purging the storage
atmosphere would be simpler.  The disadvantages are the difficulties of
moving it and rotating the stock in the drum.  If using oxygen absorbers
make sure the drum you want to use is capable of making an air-tight
seal, otherwise you should stick with carbon dioxide fumigation.


     A.3.1  POOLING RESOURCES:  THE CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF
     LATTER DAY SAINTS -- THE MORMONS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Although the purchase of a can sealer and metal cans for home use
is not economically feasible for most people there is one way that it
can be.  This is by pooling community resources to purchase the
equipment and supplies.  It may even, in fact, not be necessary to form
your own community to do this.  If you live in the right area your local
Latter Day Saints church may have facilities they will allow you to use.
They may even have suitable food products to sell you.  This is an
offshoot of the church's welfare programs and it is done in their family
canneries.  Rather than using plastic buckets they have gone over to
using metal cans church-wide for dry-pack canning.  By sharing the cost
of the equipment and purchasing the cans in bulk quantities, they are
able to enjoy the advantages of metal cans over plastic containers while
minimizing the disadvantages of cost.  As we approach the end of the
Millennium, other groups, both religious and secular, are purchasing can
sealers in order to facilitate their own food storage programs as well.

    *Please see VI.F.1 Organizations.  The Church of Jesus Christ of
Latter Day Saints -- LDS Family Canneries for more detailed information
about where LDS Family Canneries may be found and how best to approach
using them.*

     Any food products you want to have sealed in cans will need to fall
within the LDS cannery guidelines of suitability for that type of
packaging.  This is for reasons of spoilage control since many types of
foods just aren't suitable for just sealing in a container without
further processing.  If you purchase food products from them, they will
already be within those guidelines. *A brief treatment of these
guidelines may be found in VI.F.1 LDS Family Canneries Guidelines.*

     Once you have your foodstuffs on hand, either supplying your own or
by purchasing them from the cannery you're ready to package them.  It is
here that using some forethought concerning your packaging system can
save you much time and aggravation.  With the Millennium coming upon us
the traffic load of the canneries is really beginning to pick up.  This
means that access time to the can sealers and other equipment may be
limited.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    Please do keep in mind that the individuals
                   responsible for the family canneries are all
*volunteers* with demands on their time from many areas.  Be courteous
when speaking with them and, if there are facilities for use, flexible
in making arrangements to use them.  You will, of course, have to pay
for the supplies that you use, cans and lids at the least, and any food
products you get from them.  With the onset of the millennium the LDS
family cannery volunteers are becoming quite busy so be prepared to have
to work with their available scheduling.  As a general rule they cannot
put your food in storage for you.  Be ready to pay for your purchases in
advance, if necessary.  They do not take credit cards and probably
cannot make change so take a check along with you.

     The following is a list of suggestions to make the most efficient
use of your access time:

    #1 - Make your appointment well in advance.  Many people are
         beginning to make use of the canneries so making advanced
         reservations is a must.

    #2 - Have enough people to set up an assembly line type operation.
         Make sure each of your people knows what they need to do and
         how to do it.  At least four people for any serious amount of
         food is a good number.  Ask the cannery volunteer to go over
         the process with you and your crew.

    #3 - Make sure you have enough muscular helpers to do the heavy
         lifting so you don't wear yourself out or hurt your back.  Some
         of the supplies you will be working with, such as wheat, come
         in fifty pound bags and a box of #10 cans full of sugar or
         other weighty items are heavy.

    #4 - Make labels for the foods you are going to pack in advance.
         This will save time after the cans are filled.

    #5 - Take out only as many as oxygen absorbers as you can seal up in
         a half hour.  They use up most of their capacity within two to
         three hours depending on temperature and humidity.  You don't
         want them to waste any by soaking up the oxygen in the room.
         The ones you don't use up right away should be tightly sealed
         in a gas proof container.

    #6 - Save powdery food items such as dry milk powder, pudding mixes
         and grain flours and meals till last.  They can be messy to can
         and this will keep them out of your other foods.

    #7 - Leave time to clean up after yourself.  They are doing you the
         courtesy of using their equipment and selling you the supplies
         at cost.  You should return the favor by leaving the place at
         least as clean as you found it.

    #8 - Always keep in the back of your mind just how much volume and
         weight your vehicle can carry.  You'd hate to find you canned
         more than you could carry home.


     *See also IV.C.2 Preventing Corrosion of Canned Goods.*


     A.4  GLASS JARS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Compared to metal cans, glass jars are very stable, although they
obviously don't take being banged around very well.  The cardboard boxes
most jars come in are well designed to cushion them from shocks.  The
box also has the added bonus of keeping damaging light away from food.

     The major advantage of glass jars is that they are reusable. For
wet-pack canning the lids must be replaced, but the rings don't.  For
dry pack canning even the lids may be reused probably indefinitely.

     When you get right down to the bottom line, it is seldom practical
strictly in terms of dollars and cents to wet-pack your own food in
jars.  When you count the cost of your equipment, including the jars,
rings, lids and all the rest, along with a not inconsiderable amount of
your personal time, the cost of purchasing or growing your produce,
you'll almost always come out ahead to buy food canned for you by the
commercial canning industry.  That said, forget about the strict bottom
line and examine more closely why you want to put up your own food.  For
many, gardening is a pleasure and they have to have something to do with
the food they've grown!  There's also the fact that for many, you simply
cannot buy the quality of the food you can put up for yourself.  The
canning industry tries to appeal to a broad spectrum of the general
public while you can put up food to your own family's specific tastes.
Home canning is not so much about saving money as it is about
satisfaction.  You get what you pay for.

     If home canning appeals to you, please allow me to point you toward
the *rec.food.preserving FAQ* where much very good information about
methods and techniques may be found.

     Dry-pack canning using glass jars, on the other hand, may well make
a great deal of economic sense.  It is usually far cheaper per pound to
purchase food in bulk quantities, but often unsuitable to store it that
way.  Breaking the food down into smaller units allows for easier
handling and exposes a smaller quantity of food to oxygen and moisture
before it can be used up.  Of course, packaging used for doing this can
be made of many different materials, but glass is often the easiest and
most convenient to acquire and use.  Used containers are frequently
suitable and are often free or of little cost.  One source of gallon
sized glass jars are sandwich shops and restaurants that use pickles,
peppers and other sandwich condiments.  I have a Subway sandwich shop
that saves its pepper jars for me and receive several per week.  There
are also half-gallon canning jars, though they are sometimes difficult
to find.  The brand I buy is made by Kerr.


     A.5   MYLAR BAGS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     The word "Mylar" is a trademark of the DuPont corporation for a
special type of polyester film.  Typically made in thin sheets, it has a
high tensile strength and is used in a wide variety of industrial
settings.

     In food storage, particularly for the long term, it is commonly
found as a laminate with Mylar as the top layer, a very thin aluminum
foil in the middle and one or more other types of plastic films on the
bottom acting as sealant plies.  This laminate combination possesses a
high resistance to the passage of oxygen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen,
other gasses and water vapor and is what makes it valuable for our
purposes.  Unfortunately, it has a poor puncture resistance so it must
be used as an interior liner for more puncture resistant containers
rather than as a stand- alone package.

     Food grade aluminized Mylar complies with US FDA requirements and
is safe to be in contact with all food types except alcoholic.

     For food use, Mylar is most commonly available as pre-made bags of
various sizes.  Flat sheets or rolls of the material might also be found
from which bags could be fashioned as well.

     When Mylar bags are used by the storage food industry they are
generally for products sealed in plastic buckets.  The reason for doing
this is that the High Density PolyEthylene (HDPE) from which the pails
are made is somewhat porous to gasses.  This means that small molecules,
such as oxygen (O2), can slowly pass through the plastic and come into
contact with the food inside.  The problem is further compounded if
oxygen absorbers are used, as the result of their absorbing action is to
lower the air pressure inside the container unless it has first been
carefully flushed with an inert gas such as nitrogen.  How fast this
migration activity will occur is a function of the specific plastic
formulation, its wall thickness and the air pressure inside the
container.  In order to gain the maximum possible shelf life a second
gas barrier, the Mylar bag, is used inside the pail.

     Whether the use of these bags is necessary for your home packaged
storage foods depends on how oxygen sensitive the food item is and how
long you want it to stay fresh.  If the container is made of a gas
impervious material such as metal or glass then a second gas barrier
inside is not needed.  If it is HDPE or a plastic with similar
properties and you want to get the very longest possible storage life
(say 10+ yrs for grain) then Mylar is a good idea.  If you're going to
rotate that grain in four to five years or less then it is not needed.
Provided the oxygen has been purged from the container in the first
place, either with a proper flushing technique, or by absorption, there
will not have been sufficient O2 infiltration to seriously impact the
food.  Particularly oxygen sensitive foods such as dry milk powders that
are to be kept in plastic containers for more than two years would
benefit from the use of Mylar.  Naturally, storage temperature and
moisture content is going to play a major role as well.

     There is also the question of the seal integrity of the outer
container.  If you are using thin walled plastic buckets in conjunction
with oxygen absorbers the resulting drop in air pressure inside the pail
may cause the walls to buckle.  If this should occur, there would be a
risk of losing seal integrity, particularly if the buckets are stacked
two or more deep.  If the food was packed in Mylar bags with the
absorbers inside this would keep the vacuum from seriously stressing the
container walls.  Better still would be not to have the problem at all
by either using containers of sufficient wall thickness or flushing with
inert gas before sealing.  Wall thickness is one reason why the six
gallon SuperPails have become so widespread.  It should be noted that
Mylar is not strongly resistant to insect penetration and not resistant
at all to rodents.  If mice chew through your buckets, they'll go right
through the bags.

     A number of retail dealers carry Mylar bags.  Contact information
may be found in the suppliers section.


     A.5.1  HOW DO I USE MYLAR BAGS? 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Sealing food in Mylar bags is a straight-forward affair, but it may
take a bit of practice to get it right, so purchase one or two more bags
than you think you'll need in case you don't immediately get the hang of
it.

    #1 - The bags typically sold by storage food dealers look rather
         large when you compare them to the five or six gallons buckets
         they are commonly used in.  That extra material is very
         necessary if you are to have enough bag left over after filling
         to be able to work with it.  Unless you are very sure of what
         you are doing, don't trim off any material.

    #2 - Place the bag inside the outer container and fill with the food
         product.  Resist filling it all the way to the top.  You need
         at least an inch or so below the bucket rim left open to get
         the lid to seat completely.

    #3 - When it seems to be full, gently thump the pail on the floor a
         few times to pack the product in and reduce air pockets. Add
         any makeup food necessary to bring level back to where it
         should be.

    #4 - Take the bag by the corners and pull out any slack in the
         material so that all sides can be pulled together evenly.
         Place your oxygen absorbers inside if you are going to use
         them.  Now place a board over the top of the bucket and fold
         the bag end down over it keeping it straight and even.  Place a
         piece of thin cotton fabric such as sheet or t-shirt material
         over the edge of the bag mouth.  Using a clothes iron set on
         the cotton, wool or high setting run it over the cloth-covered
         Mylar about a half-inch from the edge for about twenty seconds
         or so until it seals.  You'll probably have to do the bag in
         sections.  Experimenting on a left-over strip to find the right
         temperature setting is a good idea.

    #5 - When you've done the entire mouth of the bag allow it to cool.
         Once cool try to pull the mouth of the bag open.  If it doesn't
         come open, fold the bag down into the pail until you feel the
         trapped air pillowing up firmly against the material and wait
         to see if it deflates.  If it doesn't, then your seal is good.
         You can seal on the bucket lid at this point or take the
         further step to vacuum or gas flush the bag.


     Once a seal has been obtained the bags can be left as-is, vacuum
sealed or gas flushed.  To obtain the most efficient oxygen removal the
bags can be first drawn down with a vacuum pump and then purged using an
inert gas.


     VACUUM SEALING MYLAR BAGS

     Once you have obtained a good seal on the bag, pulling a vacuum on
the contents is also pretty straight forward.

     First you'll need something to make a vacuum with.  This can be
either a regular vacuum pump, a vacuum sealer such as the Tilia Food
Saver or even the suction end of your household vacuum cleaner.  The end
that is to be inserted into the bag will need to be of fairly small
diameter in order to keep the hole in the Mylar from being any larger
than necessary.  This means that if you use a vacuum cleaner you'll need
to fashion some form of reduction fitting.

     Cut a hole into the Mylar bag on a corner, making the opening only
just large enough to admit the vacuum probe.  Insert the nozzle and
using a sponge, or something similar, push down on the material over the
probe to make a seal.  Now draw down a vacuum on the bag.  It will
probably only take a second or two.  When it's drawn down as much as
possible, run a hot iron diagonally across the cut corner resealing the
bag.


     GAS FLUSHING MYLAR BAGS.

     Flushing with inert gas works essentially just like vacuum sealing
except that you're putting more gas into the bag rather than taking it
out.  You'll want to keep the entry hole small, but don't make a seal
around it as above.  Beyond that, follow the directions as given in
Section IV.B.2 - CO2 and Nitrogen.  When you feel that the bag has been
sufficiently flushed, run the iron across the corner just as above to
seal.

     Flushing with dry ice can also be done, but it is important to wait
until the frozen carbon dioxide has completely sublimated into gas
before making the final seal otherwise the bag will burst like an
overfilled balloon.
                  

     A.6  REUSING OR RECYCLING PACKAGING  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     In an effort to save money or because new packaging may be hard to
come by, it is common for many people to want to re-use previously used
containers.  There is nothing wrong with this, but it is sometimes more
complicated than just using new containers would be.  Here are some
general "rules of thumb" that can be used if you have an interest in
doing this.

     #1.  Do not use containers that have previously contained
     products other than food.  There are two risks this can
     expose you to.  The first is that the particular package type
     may not have been tested for food use and may allow the
     transfer of chemicals from the packaging into your food.  The
     second is that all plastics are porous to some degree.  Small
     amounts of the previous contents may have been absorbed by
     the packaging material only to be released into your food,
     particularly if it is wet, oily or alcoholic.

     #2.  Previously used containers should only be used with
     foods of a similar nature and exposed to similar processes.
     This means that if a container previously held a material
     high in fat, such as cooking oil, then it should not be used
     to store a strong acid such as vinegar.  Nor should a
     container be exposed to extreme conditions, such as heat, if
     the original use of the package did not subject it to that
     treatment.  An exception to this is glass which is covered
     below.  Generally speaking, dry, non-oily, non-acidic or
     alkaline, non-alcoholic foods may be safely contained in any
     food safe container.  An example of this is keeping grains
     and legumes in HDPE buckets formerly containing pickles.

     #3.  Glass may be used to store any food provided it is in
     sound condition and has only been used to store food
     previously.  The lid or cap, however, that seals the jar is
     subject to the cautions given above.  Glass jars not
     specifically made for home canning, either boiling water bath
     or pressure canning, have a significant risk of breakage if
     used for that purpose.

     #4.  Porous packaging materials such as paper, cardboard and
     Styrofoam should not be reused.  Their open texture can trap
     food particles and are very difficult to adequately clean.
     Packaging formerly holding raw meats or shelled egg products
     are particularly at risk.

     #5.  Containers previously holding odorous foods may trap
     those odors and transfer them to foods later stored.  Trust
     me, pickle flavored milk leaves a lot to be desired.  Foods
     such as dry milk powders, fats and oils, flours and meals
     will absorb any odors seeping from your container material.
     Be sure to get the smell out before you fill them.


B -- CO2 AND NITROGEN
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Carbon dioxide (CO2) and nitrogen (N2) are commonly used in
packaging both fresh and shelf-stable foods, in order to extend their
usable shelf lives.  Fresh foods are outside the scope of this work so
attention shall be focused only on those foods suitable for use in
storage programs.

     The most common use of these gasses is for excluding oxygen (O2)
from the atmosphere contained inside of a storage container (called head
gas).  When oxygen levels can be dropped below 2% the amount of
deleterious oxidation reactions in stored foods can be greatly decreased
resulting in longer palatability and nutritional shelf lives.  Actually
achieving this low oxygen content is not a simple matter when limited to
the equipment and facilities typically available in the home.  With
careful technique and proper packaging materials it is possible to
achieve useful results though.

     In order for either gas to be used most effectively to gain the
longest possible shelf life it is recommended that it be contained
inside of packaging with high barrier properties to prevent it from
diffusing out over time or allowing oxygen to infuse in.  Examples of
this kind of packaging are Mylar and other high barrier property
plastics, metal cans and glass jars.  Buckets made of HDPE plastic are
poor gas barriers and will, over time, allow oxygen to infuse into the
container.  In order for foods to be kept for their maximum shelf lives
the containers would need to be re-purged every three to four years.
Foods that are particularly oxygen sensitive, such as dry milk powders,
should not be stored in HDPE without a secondary gas barrier.  It is
possible to use HDPE buckets alone when gas purging if a shorter
rotation period is used.  An example would be using wheat in four to
five years instead of the eight to ten that would be achievable if a
high barrier container were used.

     Purging efficiency can be greatly improved when used with a vacuum
device.  By first drawing down the head gas of the container and then
flooding with the purging gas much more oxygen can be removed from the
container.  Repeating the process once more will improve removal
efficiency even more.  If a true vacuum pump is not available, the
suction end of a home vacuum-cleaner can be made to serve and still
achieve useful results.  With careful technique, oxygen levels can be
dropped to be 0.5-2%.  Finely textured materials such as grain flours
and meals, dry milk powders and similar textured foods will purge poorly
and are better packaged with oxygen absorbers.  Instructions for vacuum
usage are given in *A.5.1 Using Mylar Bags.*  Instructions for gas
purging are given below in *B.1 Dry Ice and B.2 Compressed Nitrogen*.

     A less common, but important use for carbon dioxide is fumigation.
This is the killing or retarding of insect life contained in a product.
Many chemical fumigants are available to do this but are not thought
desirable by many who have foodstuffs they want to put into storage.
CO2 is not as certain as the more toxic fumigants, but it can be made to
work and will not leave potentially harmful residues behind.  It is
possible for nitrogen to work in a similar manner, but it must be in a
head gas concentration of 99%+ whereas carbon dioxide can be effective
over time at levels as low as 3%.  The precise amount of time necessary
for the gas to do its work will vary according to the specific species
and growth stage of the insect along with the temperature and humidity
level of the product being fumigated.  In general, the more active the
growth stage and the warmer the temperature the more effective CO2 is in
killing weevil infestations.  The gas also exhibits bacterial and fungal
inhibiting properties, but for our purposes this will be of little
moment since all foods should be too dry to support such growth in the
first place.

     The procedure for fumigating foodstuffs with carbon dioxide is
precisely the same as the one used in purging oxygen from storage
containers mentioned below.  The only change is that for the fastest
effectiveness the sealed container should be left in a warm place for a
week or so before moving it into its final storage location.  The gas is
still effective at cooler temperatures, but because insect life is
slowed by lower temperatures the carbon dioxide takes longer to complete
its mission.

NOTE:    Both Mitsubishi Gas-Chemical, maker of the Ageless line of
         oxygen absorbers, and Multisorb, manufacturer of the FreshPax D
750 absorbers, state the their products should not be used in a high
carbon dioxide head gas environment.


     B.1  DRY ICE 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Using dry ice to displace oxygen from food storage containers is a
very straightforward affair.  To get the best purging results it is
recommended that all foodstuffs and packaging materials be put in a warm
location for a few hours before beginning the purging process.  The
reason for this is that the cold CO2 sublimating from the dry ice will
be denser than the warmer, lighter oxygen containing air.  The cold gas
will tend to stay on the bottom, gradually filling the container and
pushing the warm air out of the top.

     When you first pick your dry ice up from the supplier, put it in a
moisture proof container so that water vapor will be less able to
condense and freeze on it.  The sublimating gas will prevent you from
being able to tightly seal it, but you can slow down any water ice
accumulation.

     Assemble the container and any interior packaging materials.  Break
off a piece of dry ice of sufficient size for the volume to be purged.
One pound of dry ice will produce about 8.3 cubic feet of carbon dioxide
gas so approximately four ounces per five gallon bucket will do.  Wipe
off any accumulated water frost which should look whiter than the
somewhat bluish frozen gas.  Wrap in a paper towel to keep foodstuffs
out of direct contact.  Place in the bottom of the container that will
actually contain the food, i.e. the bag.  Fill the package with the food
product, shaking and vibrating while doing so to achieve the maximum
packing density.

     If a vacuum process is not to be used then place the lid on the
container, but do not fully seal.  If a liner bag is being used then
gather the top together or heat seal and cut off a small corner.  This
is to allow the air being purged to escape as it is pushed upward by the
expanding gas from the dry ice.  Do not move or shake the container
while the ice is sublimating so as to minimize turbulence and mixing.
After approximately two hours complete the seal.  Check the container
every fifteen minutes or so to be sure that a pressure build up is not
occurring.  A small amount of positive pressure is OK, but do not allow
to bulge.

     If a vacuum process is used then cut off a corner of the bag and
insert the probe or place the container in the vacuum chamber.  Draw a
vacuum and when it has reached the desired point shut it off, but do not
allow air to get back inside.  When the dry ice has finished sublimating
seal the container.  If a slightly larger piece of dry ice is used this
process may be repeated once more to improve oxygen removal.  Watch for
pressure signs as above.

NOTE:    It is natural for some grains and legumes to adsorb carbon
         dioxide when stored in a atmosphere with high levels of the
gas.  This will result in a drop in head space air pressure much like
using oxygen absorbers will cause as they absorb oxygen.  Precautions
should be taken in thin walled containers against buckling and possible
loss of seal integrity.  When the food products are removed from the
container they will release the adsorbed CO2 and suffer no harm.

WARNING: Dry ice (frozen carbon dioxide) is extremely cold and can cause
         burns to the skin by merely touching it.  Because of this you
should wear gloves whenever handling it.  Also, dry ice evaporates into
carbon dioxide gas, which is why we want it.  CO2 is not inherently
dangerous, we breath it out with every breath we take, but you should
make sure the area you are packing your storage containers in is
adequately ventilated so the escaping gas will not build to a level
dangerous enough to asphyxiate you.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    Because dry ice is very cold, if there is much
                   moisture in the air trapped in the container with it,
and your food, it will condense.  Try to pack your containers on a day
when the relative humidity is low or in an area with low humidity, such
as in an air-conditioned house.  Use of a desiccant package when using
dry ice to purge storage containers may be a good idea.


     B.1.1  DRY ICE SUPPLIERS

     Dry ice may be found at ice houses, welding supply shops, some ice
cream stores, meat packers or you could look in your local phone book
under the headings "dry ice" or "gasses".


     B.2  COMPRESSED NITROGEN 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     B.2.1  TYPES OF AVAILABILITY

     Both nitrogen (N2) and carbon dioxide (CO2) are commonly available
in the form of compressed gas in cylinders.  In food storage, CO2 is
mainly used in the form of dry ice (see above) which is often easier to
acquire with much less equipment needed to use it.  Because of this,
I'll be limiting this section to the use of compressed nitrogen.  If for
some reason you prefer to use compressed CO2 the information given below
will work for it as well, though cylinder sizes may differ.

     In the U.S. there are about eight principal suppliers of compressed
gasses:  Air Liquide, Airco, Linde, Air Products, Matheson, Liquid
Carbonic, MG Industries, and Scott.  One or more of these producers
should have compressed gasses available in virtually every area of the
United States and Canada.

     Locating a source of compressed nitrogen is probably as easy as
looking in your local phone book under the headings "compressed gas
suppliers", "gasses", or "welding supplies".  Other sources might be
automotive supply houses, university or college research departments,
vo-tech schools, and medical supply houses.

     Nitrogen is generally available in a number of forms ranging from
gas intended for welding, to various purity assured types, to gas
mixtures where N2 would be one of the components.

     Unless you are very knowledgeable about compressed gasses and the
equipment needed to use them it is strongly recommended that you not use
any gas mixtures in your food storage, but rather to stay with pure
nitrogen gas.  Use of compressed gas mixtures requires knowledge and
equipment beyond the scope of this FAQ.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    Welding nitrogen is essentially a pure gas, but it
                   has one important caveat.  When a cylinder of welding
gas is used there is an unknown possibility that some form of
contaminant may have backfed into the cylinder from a previous user.
Possibly this could happen if the tank was being used in an application
where the cylinder's internal pressure fell low enough for pressure from
whatever the tank had been feeding to backflush into the cylinder.
Alternatively, the tank pressure may have become depleted and was
repressurized using ordinary compressed service air.  The most likely
contaminants will be moisture, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, oxygen
and hydrocarbons, but there is the remote possibility of something even
more exotic or toxic getting into your cylinder.  Welding gas cylinders
may not be checked by the gas supplier before being refilled and sent
back out for use.  It is this remote, but unknown possibility of
contamination that causes me to recommend against the use of welding
grade nitrogen in food storage.  If your supplier is willing to certify
that welding gas cylinders are checked before refilling then they would
be OK to use.


     The varying types of purity assured nitrogen gas are slightly more
difficult to find and slightly more expensive in cost, but I believe
this is more than made up for by the fact you know exactly what you're
getting.  Air Liquide, as an example, offers seven types of purity
assured nitrogen ranging from 99.995% to 99.9995% pure with none having
a water vapor content over 1 part per million (ppm) or an oxygen content
over 3 ppm.  Any of them are eminently suited to the task so the most
inexpensive form is all you need buy.

     As you might expect, compressed gas cylinders come in a number of
different sizes.  For the sake of simplicity I will address only the
most common cylinder sizes since they will almost certainly be the most
inexpensive as well.

     Again using Air Liquide as an example, it is their size 44 and 49
cylinders that are the most common.  There are other cylinder sizes of
smaller physical dimensions and capacities.  However, the logistics of
compressed gas production and transport being what they are, they
frequently will cost as much or even more than the larger, more common
sizes.  The actual gas inside the cylinder is fairly cheap.  Filling and
moving the heavy cylinders around is not.

    ---------------------------------------------------
    Table 1.    Air Liquide most common cylinder sizes.

    Cyl       Capy      Filled         Wt   Ht   Dia
    Size      Cu Ft      PSIG          Lbs  In   In
    --------------------------------------------------
    44HH      445       6000           339  51    10
    44H       332       3500           225  51    10
    49        304       2640           165  55     9.25
    44        234       2265           149  51     9
    16          77      2000            71  32.5   7

Legend:

The "H" suffix means high pressure.

PSIG = Pounds per Square Inch on the Gauge, this does not reflect
atmospheric pressure which would be Pounds per Square Inch Absolute
(PSIA).  PSIA is the absolute pressure of atmospheric and internal
cylinder pressure combined.

     Although it is not a very common size, I left the #16 cylinder in
the above table in case someone really wants or needs to use a smaller
cylinder.


..................................................................

    Table 2.  Cylinder Size Comparison.  Abbreviated table.
                   (Alphagaz in Column 1)

Cyl          Air           Liq           MG
Size Airco   Prod  Linde   Carb  Math    Ind   Scott
[1]   [2]    [3]    [4]    [5]    [6]    [7]    [8]
------------------------------------------------------


49    300     A      T      J     1L     300    K

44L   200     -      K      H     1A     200    A

44    200     B      -      -     -       -     -

44H    -     BY     3K      -     1H     2HP    -

44HH  500    BX     6K      -     1U     3HP    -

16     80     C      Q      M     2      80     B


Legend:

[1] Alphagaz (Air Liquide)
[2] Airco
[3] Air Products
[4] Linde
[5] Liquid Carbonic
[6] Matheson
[7] MG Industries
[8] Scott

Reference: High Purity Specialty Gases and Equipment Catalog; copyright
1995, Air Liquide America Corporation, Houston TX USA; pages 6 and 7.
.......................................................................
                                            
     As you can see, the size 49 cylinder from Air Liquide has an
equivalent from all eight manufacturers.  This size is the one commonly
seen being used to fill helium balloons at county fairs and ball games.


     B.2.2  OBTAINING THE GAS AND NECESSARY EQUIPMENT

     Although you can purchase your own cylinder the most inexpensive
way to use nitrogen is to rent a cylinder from your gas supplier.  This
may require filling out an application, paying a refundable cylinder
deposit and buying the gas contained in the cylinder.  Tank rental
periods can vary, but the most common is for thirty days.

     Having rented or purchased the cylinder you must now get it home.
Delivery by the supplier can often be arranged or they may assist you in
getting the cylinder into your vehicle.  The preferred method of
transportation is for the cylinder to be chained, clamped or otherwise
solidly secured in a vertical position in the transporting vehicle with
the cylinder cap in place.  Transportation requirements vary from nation
to nation, state to state and even city to city so your best bet is to
inquire of your gas supplier to find a safe and legal means of moving
the tank.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    The major expense in using compressed gas is not the
                   cost of obtaining the gas itself, but in the
equipment needed to safely handle and control it.  Unless you can borrow
the appropriate mechanisms they will have to be purchased, new or used,
and even the cheapest regulator and gauge are not inexpensive.  There is
a temptation to forgo the expense and not use a regulator, but I must
caution strongly against this.  As table 1 above shows, a full cylinder
of compressed gas will have an internal pressure of 2000+ PSIG.  Normal
atmospheric pressure is about 15 PSIA.  If the cylinder valve was opened
only slightly too far a great deal of very high pressure gas will flow
through the delivery hose and metal wand and the potential for serious
injury when it began to whip around would be very great.   For your
safety, get the necessary equipment.  If you purchase your own
regulator/gauge cluster and/or your own cylinder, there is necessity for
periodic maintenance.  Regulators and gauges need to be calibrated
(using a water deadweight calibrator) and cylinders need to be
hydrostatically tested, typically every ten years for both.  Your gas
supplier can provide you with more detailed information.

     The only equipment that will come with your cylinder is the
cylinder cap.  "Don't leave home without it" and they mean it.  All of
the common cylinder sizes will use the CGA-580 (Compressed Gas Assembly)
cylinder fitting.  The downstream side of this fitting can be obtained
with different threads, but a 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread) nipple is
normally needed to mate with the regulator body.  The nipple is really
nothing more than just a short length of high pressure pipe.  The CGA
fittings come in a variety of metal compositions such as carbon steel,
stainless steel and brass.  The best choice is one which matches the
composition of the regulator body.  If the CGA fitting and regulator are
to be used only with dry, non-oxygen gasses, in a dry environment then
galvanic corrosion can be disregarded so the most inexpensive metal
composition can be used even if it is not the same as the regulator.  If
it is to be used in a wet area, or with oxygen containing gasses then
matching metal composition becomes very important.

     When the tank is to be returned there must be some residual
pressure still in the cylinder or the renter might have to pay a
surcharge or lose their deposit.  This is particularly true of purity
assured gasses because the residual gas composition will be analyzed.
This is done for the safety of all cylinder users.

     The regulator/gauge cluster should be carefully removed using the
same procedure that is described below to put it all together. Care
should be taken not to damage the cylinder valve threads. Replace the
cylinder cap and transport in the same manner as you brought it home.


     B.2.3  PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

     If the fitting and regulator are bought separately then some 1/2"
wide Teflon tape is recommended for assembly since it is a clean and
inexpensive way of sealing pipe joints.  Looking into the open end of
nipple wrap the tape clockwise around the threaded end for 1.5 to 2
turns, working from the open end backwards.  If you want to do a neat
looking job, the tape may be slit lengthways to make it 1/4" wide, but
this is not a requirement.  A brass nipple may shrink somewhat during
tightening and need a bit more tape than a harder metal like stainless
steel would.  The Teflon tape should only be used on the end of the
nipple that attaches to the regulator body, NOT to any part of the
cylinder end.

     The regulator end has tapered threads and uses them directly for
sealing.  The cylinder end has straight threads and depends upon the
precision mating of machined metal surfaces to seal.  The cylinder end
threads simply apply the clamping force.

     Before attaching the CGA fitting to the cylinder the user should
put on safety glasses and good hearing protection.  The cylinder valve
can then be cracked very slightly to blow out any dust or debris.  After
closing the valve, inspect the cylinder valve and nipple for any
abrasions, nicks, gouges, embedded particles, etc., before attachment is
made.

     You will need two wrenches (not adjustable pliers) to equalize the
torque, particularly on the cylinder valve where it should be minimized.
Put one wrench on the fitting and the other wrench on the cylinder valve
and make the join.

     Once the regulator/gauge cluster has been mated to the cylinder,
the delivery hose can now fitted to the regulator and the metal wand to
the other end of the hose.  The wand is nothing more than a short length
of metal tubing at least six inches greater in length than the depth of
the buckets to be filled.  Copper water line works well.

     When the joins have been made, a mixture of a short squirt of dish
washing detergent and water can be used to check for leaks.  Be certain
the detergent does not contain ammonia.  Pour some on each fitting
working from the cylinder end outward, opening each valve and
pressurizing as you go.  Once the leak check is finished rinse off and
wipe down all surfaces to minimize the chance of accidents in the
future.

     If the gas is not to be used at that time then the cylinder valve
should be closed and all pressure should be drained to zero in the
regulator and gauge.  This should be done any time that the tank is not
in actual use.  If you have purchased your own cylinder then it is a
good idea to also acquire one of the plastic valve plugs, similar to
those seen with propane cylinders, in order to protect the cylinder
valve threads and keep dust, debris and insects out of the valve.

WARNING: Care should be taken that the cylinder is used and stored in
         such a way as to minimize the risk of the tank falling over.
With the regulator and gauge attached there is an increased likelihood
of damage occurring to the cylinder valve should the tank fall.
Catastrophic failure of the cylinder valve will turn the tank into a
high-energy, unguided rocket with the capability of doing great damage
and/or serious injury.


     B.2.4  PUTTING IT INTO USE.

     Having assembled and tested your gas system, you are now ready to
begin the work of packaging your food.  You'll need containers, and food
grade plastic or Mylar bags that are a bit larger in internal volume
than the container.  Next is the dry food you intend to package and a
pack of matches or a cigarette.  You'll also need to wear the safety
glasses and hearing protection you wore when you put the gas system
together.

     Take the containers you are going to use to store your food in, the
bags that will line them and the food you are putting up and place them
in some warm (not hot) area long enough for them all to equalize to that
temperature.  This will mean that the air contained inside them will
also be at a warm temperature and make it more likely that it will stay
on top when the cool gas from the nitrogen cylinder begins to flow in.
The warm gas being on top will be the first to purge from the container,
taking a good deal of the oxygen with it.

     Line the interior of the container with a plastic bag or Mylar bag.
Fill the container with the food product shaking to get it as full as
possible.  Don't forget to add your desiccant package if you're going to
use one.  You don't want any pockets left between the plastic bag and
the container.  Once you have gotten it full to just short of not being
able to fully put on the lid, gather the top of the plastic bag together
or heat seal the edges.  If you have sealed it, cut a small corner off
of the bag just large enough to allow a probe to enter.

     At this point you can either simply flush the bag as described
below or draw a vacuum on it first and then flush.  If using a vacuum
the suction probe should be kept at the top of the bag, just inside of
the opening.  The gas wand should be inserted to the bottom of the
container, taking care not to poke any holes in the liner bag.  Once
both instruments are inserted, draw the vacuum.  When it has reached a
satisfactory level, shut of the suction, maintain the seal and turn on
the gas.

     Open the cylinder valve and set the regulator to a very slow gas
flow and begin to fill the bag with gas.  You want the container to fill
slowly so you can minimize turbulence and mixing as much as you can.
It'll take a little while to fill each container, a few minutes per
bucket.  Just as with dry ice, the idea here is for the cool gas to
displace the warmer atmosphere from the container.  The bag should puff
just a bit.  When I think it's full I'll hold a lit match just above the
bag in the air that is escaping from it.  If it snuffs right out then I
let it run for about several minutes longer to flush out more of any
remaining oxygen and remove the wand.

     For the most efficient oxygen removal, repeat the suction/gas
flushing procedure one more time.  When satisfied, tie or heat seal the
bag off and seal the bucket.  Again, you want to have the bucket as full
as possible so that there'll be only minimal air space.  You should
monitor the containers for an hour or two after filling to check for any
signs of bulging or other pressure build up as the cool gas inside
gradually warms up and expands.  A slight positive pressure is OK, but
serious bulging needs some of the pressure released.

NOTE:    Although the procedure for flushing a container with nitrogen
         is straightforward enough, actually getting a good purge of the
container is not.  Nitrogen flushing works best when the contents of the
container are fairly coarse in size so that the gas flow around and
through the food is free and unrestricted.  Foods such as the larger
sized grains (corn, wheat, barley, long grain rice, etc.), legumes and
non-powdered dehydrated foods are best suited to this technique.  Foods
with small particle sizes such as flours, meals, and dry milks will
flush with mediocre results.

     Because of the difficulties in purging sufficient oxygen from a
container to lengthen the shelf life of the food it contains many
commercial suppliers have dropped this technique in favor of using
oxygen absorbers.  There is no reason that inert gas flushing and oxygen
absorbers cannot be used together and one good reason that they should.
If you are using five gallon plastic buckets as your storage containers,
it has been observed that absorbers used in unlined pails can cause the
air pressure inside the bucket to drop enough for the walls to buckle,
possibly leading to a seal breach or a stack collapsing.  For this
reason, flushing with inert gas (nitrogen or CO2) might be a good idea,
in order to purge as much oxygen as possible so that the pressure drop
caused by the absorber removing the remaining oxygen will not cause the
bucket to buckle.  Liner bags can ameliorate the vacuum problems.



C -- OXYGEN ABSORBERS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     C.1  WHAT IS AN OXYGEN ABSORBER?

     If all of this messing about with gasses sounds like too much
trouble, you can try using oxygen absorption packets.  I don't know
exactly when they first showed up on the market, but they are a
relatively recent food storage tool.  The packets absorb free oxygen
from the air around them and chemically bind it by oxidizing finely
divided iron into iron oxide.  This removes it from being available for
other purposes such as oxidative rancidity and respiration by insects,
fungi or aerobic bacteria.  The practical upshot of all this is that by
removing the free oxygen from your storage containers, you can greatly
extend the storage life of the foods in the containers.

     The absorbers themselves have only a relatively short life span,
roughly about six months from the time they were manufactured for the
types that do not need external moisture.

     Finding any information about these absorbers has been difficult,
but, thanks to Al Durtschi, I was able to find a study of their
effectiveness from Brigham Young University.

     The study tested the absorption capacity of the Ageless Z300E
packets made by Mitsubishi Gas-Chemical.  It found they were even more
effective than their rated absorption capacity of 300 milliliters of
oxygen (O2 at sea level pressure).  A single packet sealed into an empty
#10 can (80% of one gallon) reduced the oxygen in the canned air to less
than 1/2%.


     The following is the verbatim text of the conclusions section of
the Brigham Young study.  See V.B Pamphlets for the complete citation of
this study.

Conclusions:

     "Oxygen absorbing packets are effective in reducing oxygen
     contents in sealed cans.  The ageless Z300 packet has a
     greater than claimed capacity for absorbing oxygen.  Packets
     abused by 4 hour-exposure-to-air still exceed claimed
     capacity.  It may be economical to use smaller packets based
     on the dead air volume instead of can volume.  Smaller
     packets would have less tolerance for abuse and personnel
     would need to be more diligent in protecting the packets."

     "The level of oxygen remaining in the presence of the
     absorber packets is sufficiently low to greatly retard
     development of rancidity.  The biological consequences are
     not so easy to predict.  Microorganisms range from aerobic to
     anaerobic, thus no unqualified statement can be made.  The
     energy requirements of anaerobic bacteria are met by
     reactions between oxygen and more than one other molecule.
     This makes bacterial energy a higher order of reaction than
     rancidity.  Thus, the rate of bacterial aerobic reaction
     would be more seriously retarded than rancidity.  These
     matters are not of practical importance because the products
     to be canned should be too dry to support microbial growth.
     Insects are aerobic and would like-wise suffer retardation of
     activity.  No comprehensive statement can be made about
     irreversible inactivation or death of insects.  As long as
     the oxygen level remains low, insect activity will be lower
     by at least the square root of oxygen content.  In a
     practical sense, these packets are effective in stopping
     insect activity.  USDA does not recognize any method except
     disintegration as effective for completely killing insect
     eggs."

               Use of Oxygen Absorbers in Dry Pack Canning


     C.2  WHERE CAN I FIND OXYGEN ABSORBERS?

     Because they are a relatively new tool on the food preservation and
storage market, oxygen absorbers have not yet achieved a widespread
dissemination amongst the various storage food dealers and suppliers.
They are available, but you may have to do a bit of searching to find
them.

     The following short list are the suppliers I've located, thus
     far, who sell them:

     WALTON FEED
     BEST PRICES STORABLE FOODS
     DOUBLE SPRINGS HOMEBREW SUPPLY
     NITRO-PAK PREPAREDNESS CENTER
     SHERRY'S STOREHOUSE
     CSIN
     WWW.GLITCHPROOF.COM
     COUNTRYSIDE GRANARY

     In addition to the above suppliers it may be possible to acquire
oxygen absorbers through a LDS family cannery if you have one locally
available.  *Please see section IV.A.2 for information on how to explore
this possibility.*


     C.3  HOW ARE OXYGEN ABSORBERS USED?

     Even though the Z300E type will apparently absorb a great deal more
than the 300 ml of O2 they are rated for, the following instructions for
use are based on their listed rating.  So, when using the Mitsubishi
Ageless Z300E oxygen absorption packets, you should allow one packet for
every quart and a half (1430 ml) of remaining air volume in your filled
storage containers.  The FreshPax D750 from the Multisorb Corporation
work with just over 3 quarts (2860ml) of remaining air volume.

     Now determining the volume of air remaining in a filled container
is no easy thing.  In the study, #10 cans filled with either elbow
macaroni or powdered milk were used and their respective air volumes
were determined.  A can full of elbow macaroni was found to contain 22%
remaining air volume and a can full of powdered milk was found to
contain 10.5%.  With these as guides, you should then be able to roughly
figure the remaining air volume of the foods you have in your
containers.  You'll have to decide whether the food you are working is
closer to the macaroni or the dry milk in its packing density.
Obviously, this is a rather rule of thumb and this is why I kept my
instructions to the listed ratings rather than on what they will
apparently really do.  The excess capacity will thus serve to cover the
shortcomings of your reckonings.  These absorption packets should be
used only in dry foodstuffs and not with any product that will make them
wet or oily.

     Your absorbers begin their removal mission the second they come
into contact with oxygen, whether it be in your storage container or in
the open air waiting to be used.  Try to arrange things in such a way as
to have your container packed and ready to go before exposing the
packets.  Take out only those you are going to be able to use up in no
more than about fifteen minutes or so else you are losing valuable
absorption capacity.  When you take them out of their package, spread
them out on a tray so they do not contact each other.  The oxidation
reaction that absorbs the oxygen releases small amounts of heat.  The
warmer the packet becomes the faster the reaction occurs so you do not
want the packets warming each other.  Handle each one with tongs, gloved
hands or by the edges of the envelope to keep body moisture and skin
oils off.  Seal the lid or seam of the container as soon as the packets
have been inserted.

NOTES:

     #1 -- Both Multisorb and Mitsubishi corporations advise that their
oxygen absorbers should not be used in a high carbon dioxide
environment.  I haven't yet been able to determine if this is for
reasons of chemical interaction between the CO2 and the oxidation
reaction occurring in the absorber.

     #2 -- If you do choose to use oxygen absorbers in packing your food
storage containers you should give some consideration to the container
you're using.  The absorber is going be removing the 20% of the
atmosphere that oxygen constitutes.  Since nothing is replacing it this
will leave the interior of the storage container with a lower
atmospheric pressure than the outside.  If the container is sufficiently
sturdy this pressure differential will be of little consequence.  For
containers with thinner walls or more flexible material the pressure
drop could cause them partially collapse or buckle, particularly if
other containers are stacked upon them.  This could make them more
likely to lose seal integrity.  Metal cans and glass jars should have no
problems.  Plastic buckets made of HDPE are poor gas barriers and should
have a liner bag of Mylar or other high gas barrier plastic when used
with absorbers.  Seal the absorbers inside of the liner bag so that the
pressure drop with not stress the walls of the container.  Other
containers should probably be tested or first flushed with an inert gas
(N2) before the absorber is sealed in.

     #3 -- If the pack of absorbers you need to open contains more than
you are going to use up in fifteen minutes or so, you should minimize
exposure of the remaining packets.  This can be done by heat sealing the
bag they came in with an iron after expelling as much air as possible or
better yet by vacuum sealing the bag.  You can also put the remaining
absorbers in as small a jar or metal can as they will fit in and closing
with an air tight lid.

     #4 -- If absorbers are sealed in a package with desiccants some
thought should be given to just how low the relative humidity will be
dropped.  Silica gel will reduce humidity to approximately 40% which
should not interfere with the absorbers oxidation reaction.  Other
desiccants, however, are capable of reducing relative humidity to very
low levels.  This might adversely affect your absorber's ability to
carry out its mission by removing moisture from the absorber package
that is necessary to sustain the oxidation reaction.
               

D -- DESICCANTS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     D.1  WHAT IS A DESICCANT?

     Moisture in inappropriate amounts and places is very damaging to
the useful life of food.  Because of this, much effort is put into
reducing the water content of dry foods in order to prolong their shelf
lives.  Once it is reduced to the desired level the product can then be
packaged for storage.  Unfortunately, merely reducing moisture content
is not always sufficient.  Environmental conditions can play a role as
well.

     There are four mechanisms by which environmental conditions may
cause a moisture problem in your food storage:

    1. - The air trapped in the container with the food may have held
    sufficient humidity to raise the moisture content of the food to
    undesirable levels.

    2. - Even if the water vapor content wasn't too high, a falling
    temperature level may cause the trapped humidity to reach its dew
    point causing water to be squeezed out of the air to condense on
    your food much the same way as dew forms on your lawn on cool
    mornings after a warm, humid night.

    3. - The seal of the container may not be sufficiently tight enough
    to prevent moisture from leaking in.

    4. - The packaging material itself may be porous to one degree or
    another to water vapor.  All paper, wood and cardboard has this
    fault.  Depending upon their particular physical properties many
    plastics do as well.  Metal and glass containers have excellent
    barrier properties though their seals may not.

     The solution for moisture problems is multi-faceted.  First, make
sure the product to be stored is at an appropriate water content for
that particular foodstuff.  Beans and grains store quite well at a 10%
moisture level, but milk powders, dried eggs and dehydrated or freeze
dried foods should be lower for best results.

     Secondly, try to package your goods in a cool, dry atmosphere and
do not allow extreme temperature swings in storage areas.  Warm
temperatures and high relative humidities when a container is sealed
means the air trapped inside the container will have a high dew point.
This will lead to condensation should storage temperatures fall below
that dew point.  An example of this would be a container sealed on a day
that was 70 deg. F and 40% relative humidity.  At that temperature the
relative humidity would be quite reasonable for all but the most
moisture sensitive food.  However, should the temperature fall to 44
deg. F the capacity of the air to hold water vapor would have dropped to
the point that it could not contain what was sealed in at 77 deg. and
the excess would be squeezed out to condense on the food, i.e. - it will
get wet.  Possibly the food will be able to adsorb this moisture without
harm and then again, it may not.

     Thirdly, use appropriate packaging materials and make certain it is
sealed correctly.  If you are going to consume them in four to five
years, storing grains, beans and peas in unlined HDPE buckets at normal
humidities is fine.  If you want to keep them at their best for ten
years or more, the plastic the pail is made of is too porous to water
vapor for best results and should have an interior liner of a material
with better barrier properties.  Dry milk powders should not be kept for
more than a year in unlined HDPE, but can be kept for much longer in #10
metal cans, glass jars or Mylar bags.  Naturally, even the most highly
resistant packaging material is useless if its seal isn't good so be
sure you use good technique when making closures.

     Lastly, you may wish to consider using a desiccant if good humidity
control at the time of packing is difficult or if you are not confident
of the foods' moisture content or if the storage area is in a high
humidity environment or if the packaging material does not have
sufficiently high barrier properties.

     A desiccant is a substance with very "hygroscopic" properties,
meaning it will soak up water vapor from the air surrounding it.  A
number of different substances are capable of doing this, but only a
relative few of them are of practical use and fewer still are going to
be readily available to the average person.  Before elaborating on the
different types that might be useful for our purposes it's necessary to
explain how to choose a desiccant.

     The U.S. military has done much of the best research on the use of
desiccants in packaging and have largely set the standards by which they
are judged.  Each type of desiccant has temperature and humidity ranges
where it performs best and particular physical and chemical
characteristics that may need to be considered in relation to what you
propose to do with them.

     The standard most applicable for what can be done in home food
storage defines a unit of desiccant as *the amount of desiccant that
will adsorb at least 6 grams of water vapor at 40% relative humidity at
77 deg. F (25 deg. C).*

     The following table gives the amount of desiccant necessary per
square area for flexible containers such as Mylar bags or per volume of
area for rigid containers such five gallon pails or #10 metal cans.  The
actual weight of a particular desiccant to use will depend upon the
adsorbency per unit of desiccant mass.


 FLEXIBLE CONTAINERS                      RIGID CONTAINERS
  (Mylar and other                   (Buckets, cans, jars, etc.)
    plastic bags)
                            Units of        Volume in:
Area sq ft   Area sq in    Desiccant   Gallons   Cu/FT     Cu/In
                            Required
_________________________________________________________________

   0.1          30            1/6        1.1      0.14      237
   0.3          45            1/3        2.1      0.28      476
   0.6          90            1/2        3.2      0.42      714
   1.3         180             1         6.2      0.83    1,428
   1.9         270             2        12.5      1.67    2,856
   2.5         360             3        18.7      2.50    4,284
   3.1         450             4        25.0      3.33    5,712

[Table adapted from "Moisture In Packaging:  Selecting the Right
Desiccant" (c), Multisorb Corp.  http://www.multisorb.com ]
                                                         
     In order to maximize surface area to obtain optimal adsorption,
desiccants are manufactured in granular or powder forms.  This presents
a problem of keeping the desiccant, which may not be safe for direct
contact with food, out of the product while still allowing sufficient
air flow for it to carry out its task.  Manufacturers call this
"dusting" and deal with it by packaging the adsorbent in materials such
as uncoated Tyvek, a spunbonded high-density polyethylene material
produced by the Dupont corporation.  Unfortunately, I have not yet been
able to locate a retail source of uncoated Tyvek, just the coated
variety such as is used in postal envelopes.  Second best, and what I
use, is one or more layers of coffee filter paper securely sealed over
the mouth of the container holding the desiccant.  I've also made
"cartridges" of filter paper for use in narrow necked containers such as
two-liter bottles.  For this I used ordinary white glue, but getting a
good seal all the way around without sealing too much surface area
requires some care in execution.

     For coarse granular materials tightly woven fabrics might serve the
purpose providing the seams were adequate.


     D.2  TYPES OF DESICCANTS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

          D.2.1  SILICA GEL

     The most commonly known and used desiccant is silica gel which is a
form of silica dioxide (SiO2), a naturally occurring mineral.  It will
work from below freezing to past the boiling point of water, but
performs best at room temperatures (70-90 deg. F) and high humidity
(60-90%). Its performance begins to drop off over 100 deg. F, but will
continue to work until approximately 220 deg. F.  It will drop the
relative humidity in a container down to around 40% at any temperature
in its range until it is saturated.  Silica gel will absorb up to 40% of
its weight in moisture.  It is the only desiccant that is approved by
the FDA for direct food use.  It recharges easily and does not swell in
size as it adsorbs moisture.

     In the retail trade, the most commonly found form of silica gel is
*indicating silica gel* which are small white crystals looking much like
granulated sugar with small pink or blue colored crystals scattered
throughout.  This is ordinary silica gel with the colored specks being
coated with cobalt chloride, a heavy metal salt.  When the gel has
absorbed approximately eight percent of its weight in water the colored
crystals will turn from blue to pink making an easy visual indicator of
whether the gel has become saturated with moisture.  Because cobalt is a
heavy metal, indicating silica gel is not food safe and should be kept
from spilling into anything edible.

     When saturated, silica gel can be dried out and used again. This is
accomplished by heating the crystals in an oven at a temperature of no
more than 300 deg. F for approximately three hours or until the crystals
turn blue.  Dehydrating the desiccant may also be accomplished by
heating in a microwave oven.  Using a 900 watt oven heat the crystals
for three minute intervals until the color change occurs.  The exact
amount of time necessary will depend upon the oven wattage.  Spreading
the desiccant in a broad pan in a shallow layer will speed the process
Heating to 325 deg. F or more, or by using a microwave oven over 900
watts can damage the gel.

     Although I've never found anything that mentions this, apparently
it is possible for silica gel to break down over time, or at least the
colored crystals can.  I had a five pound can stored in an outside shed
here in Florida for several years before I opened it again to use some
of it.  Nearly all of the colored indicator specks had broken down and
disappeared.  I don't know if the gel itself was still good and with no
way to reliably determine whether it was saturated or not, I discarded
it.  The can the gel was in was just cardboard and it gets very humid
here in Florida so it really was very poorly stored.  Under decent
conditions it may not break down at all.  (I've never heard of this
occurring, anyway.)


          D.2.2 CLAY DESICCANT

     Although not typically found for sale on the retail market, clay
desiccant is fairly common in commercial and industrial use. The primary
reason for this seems to be that it is inexpensive compared to any other
form of desiccant.

     The material is *Montmorillonite clay*, composed primarily of
magnesium aluminum silicate, a naturally occurring mineral.  After
mining it is purified, reduced to granules and subjected to a controlled
dehydration process to increase its sorbent porosity.  It recharges
easily and does not swell as it adsorbs water vapor.  It works well at
low and room temperatures, but has a rather low ceiling temperature. At
120 deg. F it will begin to desorb or shed the moisture it has adsorbed.
This is an important consideration for storage in hot areas.

     Subject to a degree of variability for being a natural material,
clay desiccant will adsorb approximately 25% of its weight in water
vapor at 77 deg. F and 40% relative humidity.


          D.2.3  CALCIUM OXIDE

     Also known as "quicklime" or "unslaked lime", calcium oxide is a
slow, but strong adsorbent.  It is efficient at low humidities and can
drop moisture vapor to below 10% relative humidity.  Qucklime is
*caustic* and must be carefully handled, particularly with regards to
dust inhalation and exposure to skin and eyes.  It expands as it soaks
up water vapor and this must be taken into account when packaging it.
It will adsorb up to about 28% of its weight in moisture, but does it
slowly over a period of several days rather than a matter of hours like
other desiccants.  It is most effective when used in high humidity
environment where a very low level is desired.  It will release a great
deal of heat if exposed to direct (liquid) moisture or extreme
humidities.

     It can be recharged, but I do not have any details on how to go
about this other than roasting at fire temperatures.

     For expedient use, quicklime can be manufactured from clean, pure
lime stone or pickling lime available in the canning sections of many
grocery and hardware stores.


          D.2.4  CALCIUM SULFATE

     Also known as the mineral gypsum and commercially as Drierite,
calcium sulfate is another naturally occurring mineral. It is produced
by the controlled dehydration of gypsum (CaSO4). It is chemically stable
and does not readily release its adsorbed moisture.  It has a low
adsorbency capacity, only approximately 10% of it weight.  It can be
regenerated, but apparently not easily so.

     For expedient use, gypsum is commonly used in household drywall and
Kearny mentions using this source in his Nuclear War Survival Skills.


          D.2.5  OTHER DESICCANTS

------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pyotr Filipivich pyotr@coho.halcyon.com

     Simple trick is to dry a piece of wood in the oven and once it is
bone dry (more than usual) then put it in your container and seal it.
The wood will suck up any available moisture.

     Editors note:  Wood can soak up to 14% of its weight in moisture,
depending on species.  Woods with coarse, open grains work the best.
I'm not aware at what temperature it will begin to "desorb" or shed its
stored water and it might be fairly low.  Some empirical experimentation
would be in order before relying heavily on it.


     D.3  WHERE DO I FIND DESICCANTS?
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     I buy indicating silica gel at Wal-Mart in their dry flower section
where it is sold in one and five pound cans for flower drying.  I've
seen it sold the same way in crafts stores and other department type
stores that carry flower-arranging supplies.  You can also buy it from
many other businesses already prepackaged in one form or another to be
used as an adsorbent.  All of the desiccant that I've found packaged
this way has been rather expensive (to me) so shop carefully.

     Businesses carrying packaging supplies sometimes also sell
desiccants.  Some businesses commonly receive packets or bags of
desiccants packaged along with the products they receive.  I've seen
Montmorillonite clay in bags as large as a pound shipped with pianos
coming in from Japan.  Small packets of silica gel seem to be packed in
nearly everything.  Naturally, any salvaged or recycled desiccant should
be of a type appropriate for use with the product you want to package.

     It is possible to make your own desiccants using gypsum from
drywall and maybe Plaster of Paris.  Calcium oxide can also be produced
from limestone (calcium carbonate) or slaked or pickling lime (calcium
hydroxide) by roasting to drive off the adsorbed water and carbon
dioxide.  I don't have any clear instructions, as of yet, on how to go
about this.  Please do keep in mind that calcium oxide (quicklime) is
caustic in nature and is hazardous if handled incorrectly.


     D.4  HOW DO I USE DESICCANTS? 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Ideally, the dry foodstuffs you have on hand will have no more than
a 10% moisture content.  If they do not then you will need to reduce
moisture to a level appropriate for the kind of food you are storing.

     One of the following methods might be of use in lowering moisture
content.  The least involved is to wait until the driest time of year
for your location making sure there is plenty of free air circulation
around the food product.  If this doesn't suit, then turn your air
conditioning on a little high.  Bring in your buckets, lids, and the
storage food.  Let everything sit in a well-ventilated place where it's
going to get plenty of cool, dry air from the A/C (avoid anywhere near
the kitchen or bathroom areas, as they put out a lot of moisture).  Stir
the food frequently to maximize moisture loss.  About three days of
cool, constant air flow and low humidity ought to dry things out a bit.
Due to its highly odor absorptive nature, I would not do this with any
dried milk products or other powdered foods, flours or meals .  This
method works best with coarse particles such as grain, legumes and dried
foods.

     Warm, dry air can also be used to accomplish this and works well if
you have large quantities of grains and legumes.  It is very similar to
what is used on farms for drying harvested grain. You'll need a source
of forced, warm, *not hot*, air.  Place the grain in a drum or barrel
and blow the heat from the bottom so that the warm and the moisture it
will carry can exit from the top.  It's important to not let the bottom
product get too hot.  You should also monitor the top, center of the
drum to be certain that the product there is not getting too damp from
the moisture escaping from other areas.  Stirring occasionally may be
necessary.  I've seen this done with an old, drum style vacuum cleaner
that put off fairly warm exhaust air and it worked pretty well.  Do be
sure to clean the vacuum so you don't blow the grain full of dust.

     If the above methods won't do or you have powdery foods to dry, you
can place a large quantity of desiccant in a storage container.  Fill
the remaining space with your food product and seal on the lid.  After
about a week, unseal and check the desiccant.  If it's saturated, change
it out with dry desiccant and reseal.  Continue to do this until the
contents are sufficiently dry.  Calcium oxide will work particularly
well for this.  If it doesn't become saturated the first time, change it
anyway before sealing the bucket permanently.  You'd hate to find later
it saturated in storage.

     If your food products are sufficiently dry you can pack them in
storage containers using the packaging method of your choice and have a
reasonable expectation of your food staying in good condition.  Whether
you will need to use a desiccant will be dependent upon the conditions
discussed above.

     I use indicating silica gel for practically everything.  My usual
procedure is to save or scrounge clear plastic pill bottles, such as
500ct aspirin bottles or small plastic jars, such as the smaller sizes
of peanut butter comes in.  Fill the bottle with the desiccant (remember
to dry the gel first) and then use a double thickness of coffee filter
paper carefully and securely tied around the neck of the bottle to keep
any of it from leaking out.  The paper is very permeable to moisture so
the gel can do its adsorbing, but it's tight enough not to let the
crystals out.  This way moisture can be safely adsorbed.  It won't dry
out a lot of moisture -- you still need to take steps to get everything
as dry as possible before you pack it -- but it will take care of what
little is left.

     The above method will also work for the other desiccants, subject
to whatever precautions the individual type may have.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    The indicating form of silica gel (has small blue or
                   pink specks in it) is not edible so you want to use
care when putting together your desiccant package to insure that is does
not spill into your food.
                             
                                        
E -- DIATOMACEOUS EARTH  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]
                             
     E.1  WHAT IS DIATOMACEOUS EARTH?

     Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring substance comprised of
the fossilized remains of marine diatoms.  These diatoms are microscopic
in size and are covered in sharp spines that make them dangerous to
exoskeletal insects, but not to animals with internal skeletons.  The
spines of the diatom skeletons pierce the soft body tissues of insects
between their hard exoskeletal plates and it is through these numerous
microscopic wounds that the insect loses bodily moisture to the point of
desiccating and dying.  Creatures with internal skeletons such as
humans, cattle and pets have means of resisting such damage and are not
harmed.  Thus, it is possible to mix a small amount of DE into your
stored grains and beans to control insects without having to remove the
dust again before you consume them.
                             

     E.2  WHERE DO I FIND D.E. AND WHAT TYPE SHOULD I BUY?


IMPORTANT NOTE:    There are actually two kinds of diatomaceous earth to
                   be found on the market and only one of them is
suitable for use as an insecticide to use in your stored grains.  The
kind that you DO NOT WANT FOR FOOD USE is the type sold by swimming pool
suppliers as a filtering agent.  It has been subjected to a heat
treatment that dramatically increases it's silicate content and makes it
unsuitable for use with your foodstuffs.  The type that you want is sold
by a number of suppliers as a garden insecticide.  Many organic garden
suppliers will carry it.  Read the label carefully to be certain no
deleterious substances such as chemical pesticides have been added.  An
appendix with the names and addresses of some DE suppliers may be found
in the food and equipment suppliers section.
                          
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: higgins10@aol.com (Higgins10)
Originally posted in: rec.gardens

     Good afternoon all.  Diatomaceous earth is approved by the USDA as
an animal feed additive, however I have found out that there are vast
differences between various forms of diatomaceous earth.  Some DE
products may not be effective in controlling insects, while others may
be harmful to humans and pets.  The most important differences between
individual forms of DE is the shape of the diatom, content of
Crystalline Silica, and the purity of the Silica Dioxide.  The World
Health Organization cautions that DE with a crystalline silica content
of three percent or higher is dangerous to humans, (and probably pets
and birds as well).  Diatomaceous Earth used in swimming pool filters
has close to a 60% crystalline silica content.  I know of a product
called Organic Solutions (insecticide) which is approved by both the EPA
and USDA and has a crystalline silica content ranging between 0.36% to
1.12% according to its labels etc.  It is classified as Amorphous Fresh
Water Diatomaceous Earth (whatever that means).  However, all literature
I have read assures it is safe for both humans and animals and seems to
be very effective at killing insects.  I stumbled across all this info.
while shopping in the mall.  If you're interested in reading it too, go
to the Organic Solutions website at http://www.BuyOrgs.com.  Hope this
helps answer the question and always use environmentally safe products!
Higgins10
                                       
------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:  kahless@ns.waymark.net
Date: Sat Aug 24 14:08:48 1996
To: Dunross (A.T. Hagan) Private e-mail

[previous text deleted]

     I have always purchased DE at the local feed store.  It's cheaper
there than at the garden and hardware stores.  The feed store I buy at
has DE available in bulk, but they'll package up a smaller amount if
that's what you want.  My package in the garage doesn't have a brand
name but says "Nitron Industries" at the bottom.  The label recommends 7
pounds of DE for each ton of grain.  Ha! As if I had "tons" of grain in
storage 8-D

     I've been using DE for grain storage for about 15 years now but
flea control only for the past 6 years.  The only fleas we've seen in
that period of time is the ones that hitch a ride in with friends pets.
A very light dusting afterward takes care of that problem.  Miracle
stuff as far as I'm concerned since we'd had an awful time with fleas
before we started using DE.  Much much much cheaper and as far as I'm
concerned the advantages FAR outweigh the risks.

Sam
(hope that was helpful)


     E.3  HOW DO I USE D.E. IN FOOD STORAGE?

     To use, you should mix thoroughly one cup of DE to every forty
pounds of grain, grain products or legumes.  You need to make certain
that every kernel is coated so it is better to do the mixing in small
batches where you can insure more even coating.

WARNING: DE is a very powdery kind of dust, so you need to take steps to
         keep it out of your lungs and eyes. Even whole wheat flour dust
         can cause lung irritation if you breath enough of it.

     DE does not kill the insect eggs or pupae, but it will kill adults
and larvae and any eggs or pupae that hatch into adults will die after
coming into contact with it.
         

=======================================================================
                                -- V --
                              SHELF LIVES
=======================================================================
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]
         
     "How long will this keep?"  This is the defining question of food
storage.  Everything you will read in this work evolves from this
central question.  The length of time a particular food will remain
palatable and nutritious in storage determines its usefulness for our
purposes.  The fact of the matter is that there are few hard and clear
answers.  As a result it is not uncommon to find two or more sources who
purport to know, but that give conflicting data.  The following will
hopefully cut through some of the fog.


     A. "BEST USED", "USE BY" AND OTHER FOOD PRODUCT DATES 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     Although there are some twenty States in the U.S. that have food
product dating laws the Federal government has little regulation
concerning food product dating except for infant formulas and some baby
foods.  It does, however, require that if a manufacturer puts a calendar
date on a food product it must also put wording to the effect of "use
by" or "best before" next to it to explain what the date means.  This is
called "open dating" which is to say that it is a plain, easy to read
calendar date rather than "closed or coded dating" that must be
deciphered.  Another date also commonly seen is the "sell by" date.
While not as useful for food storage, it does have importance for
day-to-day fresh food purchases.

     Because the Federal government has so few food product dating
standards manufacturers use their own to determine acceptable shelf
lives.  For the most part, they are based upon changes in texture,
appearance, taste and cooking qualities.  When a food item begins to
exhibit signs of aging that would make it unappealing to customers then
it is considered to be at the end of its marketable shelf life.  Look
for statements such as "use by", "best if used by", "best if used
before" or similar wording to find this date.  For shelf stable and
frozen products it must include both the month, day and year.  These
dates are useful for determining how long a product can be retained in
the storage program before it should be rotated out.  When a food begins
to undergo taste and appearance degradation the nutrient content will
have begun to seriously fade and the time will have come to use it up so
it can be replaced with fresh stock.  If the product was properly
preserved and not subjected to extreme storage conditions it is not
unsafe to use after this date.  If there is nothing to replace it with
it may be kept, but its palatability and nutritive content will just
continue to degrade.

     Fresh food items such as meat, milk and eggs use a "sell by" date
which simply means that the item should not be purchased beyond that
date.  Products using this date type are only required to use the day
and month.  Provided that it was properly transported and stored, an
item kept past this date is not unsafe to use, but will begin to exhibit
signs of aging that will make it unappealing and should be frozen or
consumed shortly thereafter.

NOTE:    The shelf life of any food, whether indicated with a "use by"
         or "sell by" date or found on some chart, is predicated upon
assumed storage conditions.  If the actual storage conditions are
different from the assumed storage conditions then the shelf life will
naturally vary. As is explained in *Section I:  Time, Temperature,
Moisture, Oxygen and Light*, environmental storage conditions have a
major impact on the length of time any foodstuff will remain palatable,
nutritious and even whether it will remain safe.

     As a general rule, when a shelf life is given, it is for conditions
of 70 deg. F in a dark, dry location unless stated otherwise.  Be sure
to read the fine print on any shelf life chart you may come across to
see what its values are predicated upon.  There are some floating around
giving shelf lives of foods in storage temperatures as low as 40 deg. F.
At that temperature you would expect to keep your fresh butter, eggs and
milk, but very few have the ability to keep any significant amount of
canned goods in so cool a storage area.

     Regardless of what the date or chart may indicate, if storage
conditions have been very poor then a food will become non-nutritious,
unpalatable, perhaps even unsafe to eat even if its listed time is not
yet up.  An example of this would be keeping egg salad at room
temperature for several hours at a picnic.  The eggs may have been laid
yesterday, but you are taking your chances if you eat it.  Never put
blind faith in any date.  Always keep in mind that they are predicated
on unspoken assumptions.  IF THE CONTAINER IS BULGING, MOLDED, FOUL
SMELLING OR SPEWS LIQUID WHEN OPENED, THROW IT OUT!  But throw it out
safely so that children and animals cannot get into it.

*Please see Section III: Spoilage for further information*


     B. CLOSED DATING CODES USED BY SOME FOOD MANUFACTURERS.
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     In spite of the fact that increasing numbers of food processing
companies are moving to open dating it is not yet universal.  For those
products that do not come with a plain "best used by" date it is still
possible, albeit with much more difficulty, to determine the rotation
period for that specific product.

     For a processor to move their product in interstate commerce it
must exhibit a packing code.  This allows them to easily track their
product for purposes of stock rotation and in the event of a recall.
These packing codes are usually a series of letters and numbers that
indicate dates, times, and sometimes places of manufacture.  These dates
are not "use by" dates, but the time the container was actually filled.
As they are not really intended for general public knowledge these codes
are frequently unique to a particular processor and are not commonly
published by them.

     It is possible to get the keys to these codes by contacting the
processor and asking how to decipher the dating code for specific
product lines.  Over time, readers have been doing this and the code
keys below are the ones that have been sent to me.  Obviously, they are
only a few of the many, many products that use closed dating and I hope
that future readers will continue to send these codes in as they are
gleaned from the processors.

     Frankly, when it comes to the potential dozens of products that
would require deciphering their packing codes the entire process is a
major nuisance.  While it is better to have an encoded date than not to
have one at all, it would be far better if processors would just use
clear open dating and (best used by) so we wouldn't have to carry a book
of code keys like covert agents every time we go to the grocery.

     Before I list specific manufacturers there is one fairly widely
used code key that may be useful.  Some processors use a system where
all the days of the year are listed 1-365 (366 for leap year) as the
first three digits in the code.  This number is then followed by a
single letter such as "B" and then by a single digit that represents the
year.


     Some examples of this might be:

     Packing code        Date packed

     045B97              February 14, 1997
     101H98              May 1, 1998
     134K96              July 4, 1996
     252U98              October 31, 1998


     There may be other widely used coding systems yet to be discovered
and as they become available I will include them in this work.
                                                   
     SPECIFIC PRODUCT LINES:

IMPORTANT NOTE:    I have not personally verified all of these code
                   keys.  Also, closed date coding schemes may change
over time.  For this reason, the code keys given below may not be
correct.  Be sure to check a number of containers in a product line to
verify that a particular code key will work with the product line you
are interested in.
                                                   

     ARMOUR STAR CANNED MEAT PRODUCTS

     Vienna Sausage, Stew, Chili, Deviled Ham, Potted Meat, Slice Dried
Beef, Soups, etc. but does NOT include Armour Star Roast Beef or Corned
Beef.

     The code is on the bottom of the container.  The first letter is
the month of production; A=January, B=February, C=March and so on.  The
following two numbers represent the day of the month it was processed
and the third number indicates the year.

     Example:  A code of B148C23 would be B=Feb, 14 = the fourteenth
day, 8=1998.  B148C23=February 14, 1998 and the last three characters
would be plant or processing line locations.

     Armour Star Microwaveable Meals have a two line production code on
the container lid.  The second line is the is date and uses the same
code as above.


     BERTOLLI OLIVE OIL

     Packed two years prior to the use by date on the bottle or can.


     BUSH BROTHERS & CO.

     Baked beans, chili, etc.

     A five digit code on the bottom of the can.  The first digit is the
month, the next two digits is the day of the month, the next number is
the year and the last digit is ignored.

     Example:  A code of 50173 deciphers to be:

     5  = the fifth month or May
     01 = the first day of May
     7  = 1997
     3  = last number is discarded.

     Thus 50173 is May 1st, 1997.


     CAMPBELL SOUPS:

    Best by date on cans.  Filled exactly two years prior to that date.


     DEL MONTE

    Canned fruits, vegetables, etc.  I'm not sure if it applies to
*all* product lines.

    A five character packing code, usually on the bottom.  The first
character is a digit representing the year.  The next three characters
are digits representing the day of the year the product was packed.  The
last character is a letter and may be ignored.

    Example:  A packing code of  8045B deciphers to be:

     8   = 1998
     045 = The 45th day of the year or February 14th.
     B   = A plant code.

    Thus 8045B is February 14th, 1998.


     GENERAL MILLS:

    The manufacturing date is coded to their fiscal year that begins on
    June 1st and ends on May 31st.

    Interpret the code as follows:

    The first character of the code is a letter and represents the
    month the product was made.

    The second character in the code is a number which represents the
    year the product was made.

    The following two characters are numbers that represent the day of
    the month the product was made.

    The remaining characters following identify plant location and
    shift information.

     Example:  A packing code of  E731B would translate as follows:

     E  = October
     7  = 1997
     31 = 31st day of the month
     B  = A plant location

    The following is their 12 month cycle.  The letter "I" is not used
    because it can be confused with the number "1".

     A = June       E = October         J = February
     B = July       F = November        K = March
     C = August     G = December        L = April
     D = September  H = January         M = May


     HANOVER FOODS CORP.

     Small whole potatoes, green beans, corn, etc.

     A five digit code on the bottom of the can.  Omit the first digit.
The next digit is the year.  The remaining three digits are the day of
the year the product was packed.

     Example:  A code of 28304 deciphers to be:

     2   - discard this number
     8   = 1998
     304 = the 304th day of the year or October 31st

     Thus 28304 is October 31st, 1998


     HEALTHY CHOICE:

     First character is a number, second is a letter with the remaining
characters being a lot ID.  The number is the year it was packed with
the letter being the month,  October = A, November = B, December = C,
January = D, and so on through the year.  The recommended shelf life is
2 years.


     HORMEL PRODUCTS

     Their packing code is a letter followed by five numbers.  The
letter is their plant location and the numbers are the dating code in a
MM-DD-Y format.

     Example:  A code of G07048 decodes to mean:

     G  = plant location
     07 = July
     04 = The fourth day of the month
     8  = 1998

     The can was packed July 4, 1998 at plant location G.


     JELL-O BRAND PUDDINGS & GELATINS

     The first four digits are the date coding.  The first digit is the
year and the following three digits is the day of the year.

     Example:  A packing code of 804522 10:38 deciphers as:

     8     = 1998
     045   = the 45th day of the year or February 14th
     22    = discard the last two digits.
     10:38 = the time it was packed.

     Thus 804522 10:38 means that box of pudding mix was packed on
February 14th, 1998 at 10:38 a.m.


     McCORMICK HERBS & SPICES:
(See also http://www.mccormick.com/info/oftenasked.html  )

     There should be a four digit number of the bottom of the spice
package or extract bottle.  On foil packages, it will be around the
outside edge.  This code is more complicated than other manufacturers so
read closely.

     Example:  Using a number 3604 as the packing code:

     To derive the year, take the first number and add 5 (3 + 5 = 8) so
1998 is the year of manufacture.

     To derive the month and day, divide the last three digits by 50
(604 ÷ 50 = 6 with 4 remaining).  The six indicates the last whole or
complete month before the month of production, January, February, March,
April, May, and then June.  The next month, July, is the production
month.  The 4 remaining is the day it was produced.

     Therefore a packing code of 3604 means that product was packed July
4, 1998.

     While not as precise, you can save considerable time by just
finding the year.  The last three digits representing the day and month
will increase as the year grows.


     PROGRESSO FOODS

     Canned soups, beans, etc.

     Two lines of code on top of the can.  The top line, the first two
characters are the date portion.  The first character is a letter
indicating the month and the second character is a digit indicating the
year.

     Example:  A packing code of L7N18 1211 (this is the first line)
would be:

     L   = 12th month or December
     7   = 1997
     N18 = ignored
     1211= ignored.

     Thus a packing code of L7N18 1211 indicates the can was packed in
December of 1997.


     C. SHELF LIVES OF SOME COMMON STORAGE FOODS. 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     The chart given below has been adapted from a number of different
shelf-life charts published by the cooperative extension services of
several states.  It presupposes no special packagings other than the way
the food comes from the store.  The general assumption is that when a
given foods' taste, appearance or texture begin to take on noticeable
changes it has reached the end of its best marketable shelf life and
should be rotated out.  This is not to say the food is no longer edible,
but it is losing nutritional content at the same time so no purpose is
served by keeping it for longer than is necessary to replace it with
fresher stock.  For what it's worth, I'm not fully in agreement with it
myself, but it's a good working hypothesis and I modify it by my
personal experience which may vary from yours.  If it is a dry food then
only dry utensils should be used to remove it from its container.  The
less light, moisture, heat and oxygen it comes into contact with, the
longer the food will keep.


         All of the below are for new, unopened containers.

                         RECOMMENDED
                         STORAGE TIME
FOOD                     AT 70 deg. F.                 STORAGE
TIPS                                               Keep the product:
=======================================================================

Baking powder.................Till can date......Sealed & bone dry
Baking soda.....................2 years..........Sealed & bone dry
Biscuit, brownie, muffin mix....9 months.........Sealed, cool and dry
Bouillon, cubes or granules.....2 years..........Sealed, cool and dry
Cake mixes, regular.............9 months.........Sealed, cool and dry
            angel food..........1 year...........Sealed, cool and dry
Canned  metal can, non-acidic...2 years..........Cool
 food,  metal can, acidic.....12-18 months.......Cool
        glass jars.............2-3 years.........Dark and cool
Chocolate, semi-sweet
   or  unsweetened.............18 months.........Cool and dark
Chocolate syrup.................2 years..........Cool & tightly sealed
Cocoa, powder or mixes..........8 months.........Sealed and cool
Coffee, regular.................2 years..........Cool, dry and sealed
        instant................1-2 years.........Sealed
Coffee creamers, powdered.......9 months.........Sealed and cool
Cornmeal........................1 year...........Guard against weevils
Cornstarch.....................18 months.........Dry
Crackers........................3 months.........Dry
Flour, white...................8-12 months.......Guard against weevils
       whole wheat.............6-8 months........Cool and weevil proof
Frostings, canned...............3 months.........Cool
           mix..................8 months.........Dry and cool
Fruits, dried..................6-12 months.......Cool & sealed
Gelatin, all types.............18 months.........Protect from moisture
Grains, whole...................2 years..........Dry and weevil proof
Hominy & hominy grits...........1 year...........Guard against weevils
Honey...........................1 year...........Sealed
Jellies, jams, preserves........1 year...........Refrigerate after use
Molasses & syrups...............1 year...........Sealed
Mayonnaise......................6 months.........Refrigerate after use
Milk, condensed or
      evaporated................1 year...........Turn over every 2 mos
      Non-fat dry...............6 months.........Bone dry and cool
Nuts, vacuum canned.............1 year...........Cool and dark
      other packaging...........3 months.........Cool and dark
      in shell..................4 months.........Cool, dry and dark
Pancake mix....................6-9 months........Dry and weevil proof
Pastas
 (macaroni, noodles, etc).......2 years..........Guard against weevils
Peanut butter..................6-9 months........Sealed, cool, dark
Peas and beans, dry
 (not soybeans).................2 years..........Dry and weevil proof
Potatoes, instant..............6-12 months.......Dry and weevil proof
Pudding mixes...................1 year...........Cool and very dry
Rice, white.....................2+ years.........Guard against weevils
     brown.....................3-6 months........Cool and weevil proof
     flavored or herb...........6 months.........Sealed & weevil proof
Salad dressings...............10-12 months.......Refrigerate after use
Salad oils......................6 months.........Sealed, dark and cool
Sauce and gravy mixes..........6-12 months.......Cool and dry
Shortening, solid...............1 year...........Dark
Soup mixes......................1 year...........Cool and dry
Sugar, brown....................6 months.........Airtight container
       confectioners...........18 months.........Dry and sealed
       granulated...............2+years..........Dry
Syrups (corn syrup based)......8-12 months.......Sealed and cool
Tea, bags......................18 months.........Sealed and dry
     instant....................3 years..........Sealed
     loose......................2 years..........Sealed and dry
Vegetables, dried...............1 year...........Cool and sealed
Vinegar.........................2+ years.........Sealed
Yeast (dry)...............Pkg expiration date....Cool and dry

    
=======================================================================
                               -- VI --
                               RESOURCES
=======================================================================
    [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]
    
    [This FAQ does not tell me what I need to know!]

    Please put the question to the *rec.food.preserving*,
*rec.food.cooking*,*misc.survivalism*, *alt.survival* or *misc.rural*
Usenet newsgroups.  You could even resort to the tried and true method,
a book.

     The following is a list of books that I have found to have useful
information.  It is by no means an exhaustive list on the subject.  If
you have books you would like to suggest, please feel free to e-mail me
with the particulars.  If you can please include the same kind of
information about the book in question as you see below, particularly
the ISBN #, if it has one.


A.  BOOKS:      
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

A YEAR'S SUPPLY;  Barry G. & Lynette B. Crockett;  1988;  ISBN#
0-915131-88-9;  Available form the author at P.O. Box 1601, Orem, Utah
84057 and available in some stores.  Publisher's Press.

BOOK OF TOFU, THE;  William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi;  1975;
ISBN#0-345-35181-9;  Ballantine Books.

BUILD YOUR ARK!  Book 1: Food Self-Sufficiency;  Geri Guidetti; 1996;
ISBN# 0-938928-01-5;  Published by the author; The Ark Institute, P.O.
Box 142, Oxford, Ohio 45056; http://www.arkinstitute.com;  E-mail to
arkinst@concentric.net

COOKIN' WITH POWDERED MILK and COOKIN' WITH POWDERED EGGS;  Peggy
Layton;  Both 1994;  No ISBN;  Available from the author P.O. Box 44,
Manti, Utah, 84682.

COOKIN' WITH HOME STORAGE;  Vicki Tate; 1993;  ISBN# none; Published by
the author; Address: 302 East 200 North, Manti, Utah, 84642; Tel # (801)
835-8283

COUNTRY BEANS;  Rita Bingham;  1996;  ISBN 1-882314-10-7; Published by
Natural Meals In Minutes  30500 SE Jackson Rd, Gresham, OR 97080.

CREATING THE COMPLETE FOOD STORAGE PROGRAM;  Skipper Clark;  1996; No
ISBN;  Available from the author, Sierra Sun Publishing, P.O. Box 6209,
Oroville, CA 95966

HOME FOOD SYSTEMS;  Edited by Roger B. Yepsen, Jr.;  1981; ISBN#
0-87857-325-9;  Rodale Press.

HOW TO DEVELOP A LOW-COST FAMILY FOOD-STORAGE SYSTEM;  Anita
Evangelista;  1995;  ISBN 1-55950-130-8;  Loompanics Unlimited.

HOW TO DRY FOODS;  Deanna DeLong;  1992;  ISBN 1-55788-050-6;  HP Books

KEEPING FOOD FRESH;  Janet Bailey;  1985;  ISBN# 0-385-27675-3;
Doubleday & Co.

KEEPING THE HARVEST;  Chioffi and Mead;  1991;  ISBN# 0-88266-650-9;
Storey Communications.

LIVING WELL ON WHEAT;  Geri Guidetti;  1997;  ISBN 0-938928-02-3;
Published by the author;  The Ark Institute, P.O. Box 142, Oxford, Ohio
45056; http://www.arkinstitute.com ;  E-mail arkinst@concentric.net

MAKING THE BEST OF BASICS - FAMILY PREPAREDNESS HANDBOOK; James T.
Stevens; 1996; ISBN #1-882723-25-2; Gold Leaf Press  or from the author:
15123 Little Wren Lane, San Antonio, TX 78255; E-mail
jstevens@iamerica.net

MARLENE'S MAGIC WITH FOOD STORAGE;  Marlene Petersen; 1991; No ISBN;
Published by the author;  Marlene's Magic,  4958 Alpine Circle Highland,
Utah 84003

NUTRIENT CONTENT OF THE U.S. FOOD SUPPLY, 1909-1988;  1992; Nutrient
Education Division;  Human Nutrition Information Service of the USDA.

NUTRITIVE VALUE OF AMERICAN FOODS;  Catherine S. Adams; 1975; No ISBN;
USDA Handbook No. 456

PERMACULTURE BOOK OF FERMENT & HUMAN NUTRITION, THE;  Bill Mollison;
1993;  ISBN 0-908228-06-6;  Tagari Publications

PUTTING FOOD BY;  Greene, Hertzberg and Vaughn; 1982 (14th edition);
ISBN# 0-525-93342-5; Penguin Group.

RECOMMENDED DIETARY ALLOWANCES (The RDA Book);  National Research
Council;  1989(10th edition);  ISBN 0-309-046335 (paper); National
Academy Press

ROOT CELLARING (1994);  Mike and Nancy Bubel;  ISBN 0-88266-703-3.

TOFU & SOYFOODS COOKERY;  Peter Golbitz;  1998;  ISBN 1-57067-050-1;
Book Publishing Company;  P.O. Box 99, Summertown, TN   38483

WHOLE GRAINS;  Sara Pitzer;  1981; ISBN #0-88266-251-1; Garden Way Books


B.  PAMPHLETS:  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

Consumer Information Center, Department EE, Pueblo CO 81009.  Ask for
the Consumer Mailing List Catalog.  You can order those nifty USDA
pamphlets from this catalog.

Check your extension service office for pamphlets, which can usually be
bought for a dollar or so.  Especially important for high altitude
canning, getting recipes specific for locale, even information on U-Pick
sites and local farmers' markets.

Controlling Indianmeal Moths in Stored Shelled Corn and Soybeans; Phil
Harein and Bh. Subramanyam; FS-0996-A-GO Revised 1990 Minnesota
Extension Service, University of Minnesota

FOOD STOCKPILING FOR EMERGENCY SHELTERS;  Food and Materials Division,
Commodity Stabilization Service, USDA, April 1961]

Food Storage In The Home FN502;  Utah State University Cooperative
Extension Service Bulletin

Frequently Asked Food Questions FN 250;  1993 Utah State University
Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin

Molds And Mycotoxins In Feeds; C.M. Christensen, C.J. Mirocha, R.A.
Meronuck; FO-3538-C-GO 1988; Minnesota Extension Service, University of
Minnesota

Molds In Grain Storage; Richard A. Meronuck;  FO-0564-C-GO; Revised
1987;  Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota

Nonfat Dry Milk FN142;  Utah State University Cooperative Extension
Service Bulletin

Use of Oxygen Absorbers in Dry Pack Canning; Albert E. Purcell, Theodore
C. Barber, John Hal Johnson;  Benson Quality Assurance Laboratory
Department of Food Science, Brigham Young University


C.  MAGAZINES: 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

American Survival Guide
P.O. Box 68033
Anaheim, CA   92817-0833
(714) 693-1866

Backwoods Home Magazine.  Dave Duffy, publisher.
P.O. Box 712
Gold Beach, OR  97444
(541) 247-8900
http://www.backwoodshome.com

Countryside & Small Stock Journal
N2601 Winter Sports Rd,
Withee, Wisconsin 54498
(800) 551-5691

Mother Earth News
P.O. Box 56302
Boulder, CO   80322-6302
(303) 678-0439


D.  PHONE:   (non-modem) 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

Your local cooperative extension service--check your local university
directory, especially if its a Land Grant College; look under Government
Services, under Dept. of Agriculture. Master Preservers--similar to
Master Gardeners or Master Composters.


E.  ELECTRONIC: 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     E.1  INFORMATION SOURCES

ftp://ftp.ucdavis.edu/pub/extension/4h-youth/fp001.zip-fp008.zip

    Files are compressed, written in Word Perfect 5.1 or Post Script
    format. Files are eight lessons in food preservation.

ftp://ftp.michvhf.com/pub/rec.food.baking/FAQ

    The FAQ for the *rec.food.baking* news group.  Good stuff.

http://waltonfeed.com/self/default.htm

    The Walton Feed information area on food production, preservation,
    and storage, water storage and purification, nutrition, planning,
    culture and a great deal of other useful information.  One area also
    has the labels showing contents, nutritional breakdowns and other
    information of most of the products produced and/or sold by Walton
    Feed. Also listed are head gas analyses of their packaged products.
    He has a good section on do it yourself food storage packaging as
    well.

http://www.idos.com

    This is the home of The International Dutch Oven Society.  There's
    more here about how to use Dutch ovens to cook more foods than you
    ever thought about.  Also a lot of good links, including Macscouter,
    a Boy Scout site with a lot of open fire cooking information.

http://www.nyx.net/~dgreenw/sourdoughfaqs.html

    A truly vast collection of information, recipes and tips on
    sourdough breads of every sort and some really interesting links.
    The *rec.food.sourdough FAQs* may be found here as well.

http://sunsite.unc.edu/hermed

    A collection of FAQs and other assorted information and pictures of
    culinary and medicinal herbs.

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/1962/rffl.html

    The *rec.food.preserving* FAQ.  This work and mine are yin and yang
    to each other.  What I don't cover, Leslie does and vice-versa.
    Unfortunately, there isn't a good way to get a plain ASCII text
    version and it hasn't been updated in a while, but it's still chock
    full of solid, useful information.

http://www.disasterrelief.org/library/prepare

    The library of the Disaster Relief Organization.  Some really good
    preparedness information.

http://www.fema.gov/library/emfdwtr.htm  Emergency Food & Water
                   /famplan.htm         Your Family Disaster Plan
                   /diskit.htm          Your Family Disaster Supplies
                                        Kit

    Three of the many files available on the Federal Emergency
    Management Agency web site.  There's also correspondence classes on a
    wide range of subjects available, most of them for free.  You should
    also check out the Community Emergency Response Team materials
    available.  There's a tremendous amount of resources and knowledge
    available here and you've already paid for it, *so use it*.

http://cypress.idir.net/~medintz/surv_faq/surv_faq_index.html

    Mike Medintz's web site and it contains the FAQs native to the
    misc.survivalism newsgroup.  Particularly look for the *Threat
    Assessment FAQ* by Richard DeCastro and the *Water Treatment FAQ* by
    Patton Turner.

http://www.millennium-ark.net/News_Files/Hollys.html
http://www.ballarat.net.au/~standeyo/News_Files/Hollys.html

    These two sites in the States and Australia mirror each other.
    Created by Holly and Stan Deyo, they offer a great deal of useful
    food storage information, software, water purification and storage
    and more. Well worth a look.

http://www.flashnet/~bhphiker/BHP/

    The Back Country homepage. All sorts of knowledge relating to the
    back country.  Click on the "distilled wisdom" link to get to the
    *rec.backcountry* newsgroup FAQs.  One of the most important ones
    there is the *water treatment FAQ*.  It makes a fine complement to
    Pat Turner's water treatment FAQ.

http://www.homecanning.com

    The Bernardin (Altrista) web site. Wet-pack pressure and
    boiling-water bath canning information.

http://www.danonenewsletter.fr/indexangl.html

    This is not Dannon, but Danone, the French yogurt maker.  The site
    has a great deal of information on fermented milk products.  It's in
    English, but French is available as well.

http://countrylife.net

    A village of high quality food information about edible wild plants,
    herbs, grain, milling, baking, fermented milk products and more.

http://www.managingdesire.org/Hesperian/Hesperian.html

    Nothing to do with food at all, but a page for ordering the various
    publications of the Hesperian Foundation, such as *Where There Is No
    Doctor*, *Where There Is No Dentist* and *A Handbook For Midwives*.
    In many situations where you might have to seriously rely upon your
    food storage program these books could surpass the value of their
    weight in gold.  Think seriously about getting them.

http://www.hollowtop.com/finl_html/finl.html

    The Food Insects Newsletter site.  Just in case you think you'll
    ever have to.


     E.2  SOFTWARE SOURCES

[I have not used any of these programs myself, but I'm listing them for
those who might be interested - editor]

http://www.waltonfeed.com/grain/calc.html

    There are two Excel spreadsheets here that can also be imported into
    Lotus 123, Quattropro or Works For Windows.  The first spreadsheet
    is a nutritional calculator showing the breakdown of 65 nutrients
    for 167 foods with more being importable.  The second spread sheet
    is a yearly supply calculator.

http://waltonfeed.com/self/plan.html

    A nutritional calculator that allows you to enter your food supply
    and it gives you a daily nutritional printout.  This is a smaller,
    less versatile version of the one from Revelar below, but is less
    resource intensive and will run on a DOS only machine.

http://www.revelar.com/fsp.html

    A more extensive, versatile version of the above program, makes it
    much easier to modify for personal use.  It also requires at least a
    486, Windows and 8mb of Ram.  A version for the Mac is available as
    well.

http://www.beprepared.com (click on free software area)

    Offered on the Emergency Essentials web site.  The first program is
    a food planner demo for creating shopping lists and planning recipes
    for any length of time.  The second is a 72 hour preparedness
    program that will take you through various disasters and how to
    prepare for them.

http://www.millennium-ark.net/News_Files/Hollys.html
http://www.ballarat.net.au/~standeyo/News_Files/Hollys.html

    The U.S. and Australian web sites for Holly and Stan Deyo.  They
    offer food storage calculators similar to the one from Revelar, but
    with more food items already built in.


F.  ORGANIZATIONS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     F.1  THE CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF LATTER DAY SAINTS 

     The LDS church, commonly known as the Mormon Church, has long had a
welfare program for the benefit of its members in need.  Believing that
the best way to deal with the problem of needy members is not to have
any, the church also strongly encourages its membership to be as
self-reliant and self-dependent as possible.  To further this end it
provides access to church owned cannery facilities and makes large,
economical bulk purchases of storage foods to sell at cost to any member
with an interest in starting a personal food storage program.  Believing
that the more self-dependent people there are in general the fewer there
will be needy in times of hardship the LDS church also makes those same
facilities and supplies accessible to non-church members, or "gentiles",
as well.

     Most facilities will be located at one of the LDS Bishop's
Storehouses located in various places around the country, but some
churches will also have their own local facilities.  The easiest means
of finding out is simply to ask the LDS church member you know.  If they
don't themselves know, or you don't know any Mormons then a little phone
book research will be necessary.  Find your nearest local Mormon church
and ask about speaking with the local Bishop of the Ward or Relief
Society president.  Either one of those two individuals will be able to
give you the information you seek.  Failing any of the above, you can
also call the LDS church headquarters in Salt Lake City at
1-800-453-3860 extension 4164.

    Or you can write to:

                   The Church of Jesus Christ
                   of Latter-Day Saints
                   Welfare Services
                   Seventh Floor
                   50 East North Temple Street
                   Salt Lake City, Utah   84150

     If you find that you have a cannery within striking distance then
give them a call.  Inquire about available times, what you need to
provide and what is not suitable for canning.  Be up front and honest
with them, they're sincere about allowing non-church members to use
their facilities.  You'll hardly be the first one to want to talk to
them about food storage.  Ask for a copy of the cannery guidelines and a
price list of what is available.  There may also be classes or seminars
available.  There is a certain degree of variability between the
canneries so what is available at one may not be at another.

     I've corresponded with many LDS members and have even contacted the
LDS headquarters in Salt Lake City to get the official word.  Keeping in
mind that not every area may have facilities for use and that the family
canneries are run by volunteers, they are quite earnest about allowing
non-church members to use their facilities.  It's worth investigating.

IMPORTANT NOTE:    Please do keep in mind that the individuals
                   responsible for the family canneries are all
*volunteers* with demands on their time from many areas.  Be courteous
when speaking with them and, if there are facilities for use, flexible
in making arrangements to use them.  You will, of course, have to pay
for the supplies that you use, cans and lids at the least, and any food
products you get from them.  With the onset of the millennium the LDS
family cannery volunteers are becoming quite busy so be prepared to have
to work with their available scheduling.  As a general rule they cannot
put your food in storage for you.  Be ready to pay for your purchases in
advance, if necessary.  They do not take credit cards and probably
cannot make change so take a check along.

     Any food products you want to have sealed in cans will need to fall
within their guidelines of suitability for that type of packaging.  This
is for reasons of spoilage control since many types of foods just aren't
suitable for just sealing in a container without further processing.  If
you purchase food products from them, they will already be within those
guidelines.  A brief treatment of these guidelines may be found below.


     F.1.1 LDS FAMILY CANNERY GUIDELINES

     Subject to some variability, the following foods are generally
available at the canneries:

Apple slices, dried          Macaroni                 Rice, white
Beans, pinto, pink,          Milk, non-fat dry        Soup mix
       great Northern        Oats, quick rolled       Spaghetti
Carrots, dry                 Onions, dry              Sugar, white
Cocoa, hot mix               Pudding mix              Wheat berries
Flour, white                 (chocolate & vanilla)    (hard red winter)
Fruit drink mix

     You will be able to purchase the necessary cans, oxygen absorbers,
boxes and plastic lids for what you want to can.

     The following food items are not thought to store well when dry
pack canned and generally cannot be put up at the cannery:

Baked goods                  Egg noodles              Peanut butter
Baking powder                Flour, whole wheat       Rice, brown
     or soda                 Granolas                 Spices
Barley, pearled              Honey                    Sugar, brown
Cereal, milled grain         Mixes, if they contain   Yeast
Coconut                       leavening agents
Cornmeal                     Nuts, roasted or raw
Dried meats                  Oils or fats

     Although I am not in complete agreement with the above list, it is
workable and will get the job done.  Make sure that the food you want to
pack has little fat content and strive to make sure it has a low
moisture content and you should be OK.  For grains, legumes, flours,
meals and dried fruits and vegetables do make sure to use the oxygen
absorbers.  You should not assume the food is insect free.  When the
packets remove the available oxygen any insect life in the can will
either die or at least go into stasis.


G.  FOOD AND EQUIPMENT SUPPLIERS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

     G.1  MAIL ORDERING STORAGE FOODS --  
           WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW

     When it comes to building a food storage program, sooner or later
you may want to seriously consider mail ordering at least a part of the
foods you want.  Even for those of us who try do as much as we can
locally there are some things which are not going to be easily available
in our areas.  To help with this I have included below a list of food
and equipment suppliers where just about anything can be found.

     Because many do find it necessary or desirable to purchase through
mail order I am including a few points which should be considered before
shelling out the cash.

     1.-- Find out how much the shipping costs are going to be. Grains
and legumes are relatively cheap, but weigh a lot when bought by the
five or six gallon-bucket.  Because of this, shipping charges can
sometimes as much as double the actual cost of the product by the time
you get it to your door.  Adding insult to injury is the $2.00 per round
bucket fee UPS is charging.  Compare carefully each company's list price
and their shipping charges, combined, when deciding who to order from.
Saving up for a larger order, or trying to find someone to combine
orders with might enable you to make a large enough order to get a price
break on shipping.  You could also take a vacation in the area of the
company's location or swing through the area on the way back from one.
If you choose to do this, be certain to call ahead and let them know so
they'll have your order ready and waiting for you.  The company in the
next state may be higher on the list price, but end up being cheaper
than having it shipped in from six states away.

     2.-- Ask the supplier when your order is going to ship.  Some
suppliers are way behind in order filling and you could be waiting and
waiting.  Slowness in shipping is not necessarily a sign of bad
business.  Some suppliers may drag their feet, but others may be
genuinely swamped by the volume of business they are receiving because
they have a good product at a fair price.  The closer we come to the
millennium the worse this problem is going to become.

     3.-- How fresh is the product you are ordering?  Freshness is what
it's all about when it comes to storage foods.  If a food has a five
year shelf life in its container then you want as much of those five
years to be on your shelf, not the supplier's.

     4.-- Be very clear as to how the product you are ordering is
packed.  Many suppliers offer identical foods packed in several
different ways.  Be certain the product number you are giving the
salesperson is for the product packed in the manner in which you want
it.

     5.-- What is the head gas analysis?  If you are ordering foods
packed in a nitrogen flushed oxygen free container (with or without an
oxygen absorber packet added) then ask about the laboratory test results
that measure the oxygen content of the head gasses in the container.
This is of great importance if you are counting on the extra storage
life such packaging will give you.  There are but a few companies such
as Perma Pak, Ready Reserve, and Walton Feed that actually produce
packaged storage foods and most dealers only distribute and retail their
products.  If the dealer can not produce the manufacturer's test data
measuring the head gasses of the products they are selling then keep
looking.

     6.-- If you are purchasing wheat and intend to use it primarily for
bread making then be sure to ask about its protein content.  The best
breads need at least 12% protein and the higher the better.  Also take a
close look at the weight of the product.  One company's five or six
gallon bucket of wheat may not weigh the same as another's.  The same
applies to dehydrated foods such as fruits, vegetables, TVP, etc.  Ask
about the moisture content of bulk foods which are not already packaged
for long term storage.  10% moisture is where you want to be for grains,
legumes and most everything else.

     7.-- What is the company's damage and return policy?  If your
carefully packed SuperPails and #10 cans get dented or cracked in
shipping you'll need to have them replaced.  Most mail order companies
will require you to contact the shipper (such as UPS) for a claim
number.  The shipper may or may not require an inspection so don't
destroy any packaging or containers until you know for sure.

     Does anyone else know of anything else a person should look out for
or ask about when mail ordering storage food?


     G.2  ADDRESSES OF SUPPLIERS  
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

DISCLAIMER:   The addresses listed below were either found by me or sent
              to me by the business owners or interested readers.  I
make *NO* representation as to their worthiness to do business with.
Most of these merchants or manufacturers have been in their field for
many years and will be around for many more and are honorable in their
dealings.  However, there are some businesses that spring up and then
disappear and with every update of this work there is at least one or
two that I cannot locate from the previous update.  The advent of the
World Wide Web has only exacerbated this problem.  In addition to the
precautions mentioned in G.1 above you should take all of the usual
precautions in mail or phone ordering.

     I have accumulated the following list of names and addresses of
various suppliers of one thing or another relating to food preservation
and storage.  They are roughly categorized by type:

STORAGE FOOD MANUFACTURERS:  The actual producers or packagers of
storage foods.  Some also do retail sales of their products, but most do
not.

FOOD PRESERVATION DEALERS AND SUPPLIERS:  These are businesses dealing
with the aspects of food preservation as opposed to storage.  Canning,
meat curing, fermented milks, pickling, spices, soybean products,
brewing, vintning, etc.

FOOD STORAGE AND PRESERVATION EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURERS:  The actual
manufacturers of equipment.  Some will do retail sales and some do not.

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS:  Self-explanatory.

STORAGE FOOD RETAIL DEALERS:  Retail sales of all of the above.

     Naturally, addresses, phone numbers, web sites, etc change over
time so if you have more current information than I'm giving here,
please be so kind as to let me know.  Additionally, I'm always looking
for new companies so if you have some that I don't have I'd like to see
those too.  Thanks - ed.


          G.2.1.  STORAGE FOODS MANUFACTURERS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

ALPINEAIRE FOODS
Post Office Box 926
Nevada City, California 95959
(800) 322-6325
(916) 272-2624 fax
http://www.alpineairefoods.com/
E-mail:  sales@alpineairefoods.com

Storage food manufacturer.  Shelf stable foods with a long storage life.
Many foods that require no cooking.  Also backpacking meals.  No retail
sales.  See suppliers list for retail dealers.

FREEZE DRY FOODS, LIMITED
579 Speer Rd
Oakville, Ontario L6K 264 Canada
(905) 844-1471
(905) 844-8140 fax
http://www.freeze-dry.com
E-mail:  info@freeze-dry.com

A Canadian freeze-dried foods manufacturer.  Produces Hardee Camping
Foods.  List of dealers on site.  No retail sales.

HARVEST FOODWORKS
445 HWY 29
RR#1
Toledo, Ontario KOE 1YO, Canada
(800) 268-4268
(613) 275-2218
(613) 275-1359 (fax)
http://www.harvest.on.ca
e-mail:  thefolks@harvest.on.ca

A Canadian producer of primarily vegetarian (some have meats) dehydrated
and freeze dried foods.  No retail sales, but a links page gives
location of dealers.  Ingredients and nutrition information on site.

OREGON FREEZE DRY, INC (Mountain House)
P.O. Box 1048
Albany, OR   97321
(800) 547-0244
(541) 967-6527 fax
(541) 926-6001 international
http://www.ofd.com/mh/index.html
E-mail: mtnhouse@ofd.com

Manufacturer of Mountain House freeze dried foods in pouches and larger
cans.  Does not sell direct, but through distributors.  A list of
dealers and stocking stores on site.

PERMA-PAK
3999 S. Main St., Suite #S-2
Salt Lake City, UT   84107
(800) 594-8974
(801) 268-3913
(801) 268-4376 fax
http://permapak.com

A major producer of storage foods.  No retail sales.  See retail
suppliers list for dealers.

READY RESERVE FOODS
Post Office Box 697
1442 S. Gage
Beaumont, California 92408
(800) 453-2202

Over 100 different dry food products for long term storage.  No retail
sales.  Contact company for a list of dealers.

SOPAKCO
P.O. Box 1129
215 South Mullins St
Mullins, South Carolina   29574
(800) 276-9678
(888) 276-9678
(803) 464-0121
(803) 464-2178 fax
http://www.sopakco.com

Manufacturer of military MRE's, their civilian MRE equivalent brand
*Camp & Trail* and humanitarian pouch meals.  Some product info on site.
No retail sales, but does have dealer contact info.

STAR FOOD PROCESSING, INC.
3444 East Commerce Street
San Antonio, Texas 78220
(800) 882-MEAL

RETAIL SALES.  Fully cooked heat & eat serving trays. Each tray contains
106 ounces of fully cooked, ready to eat products.  Thirty minutes time
required to prepare a meal from pantry to the table.  This product is
shelf stable and requires no refrigeration or freezing for storage.
Normal shelf life is two years.

WALTON FEED,INC
135 North 10th
P.O. Box 307
Montpelier, ID   83254
(800) 269-8563
http://www.waltonfeed.com

RETAIL SALES.  Major manufacturer and supplier of storage foods.  Bulk &
N2 packed dehydrated foods, grains/legumes bulk and N2 packed, oxygen
absorbers.  Free food storage planning software.  Can labels and head
gas analyses of most products available for viewing on site.  Very
informative web site.

WORNICK COMPANY, THE (formerly Right Away Foods and Shelf Stable Foods)
200 North First Street
McAllen, TX  78501
(800) 565-4147 (Mil-Spec orders)
(210) 687-9401
(210) 687-7028 fax
http://www.wornick.com

Manufacturer of military MRE's, their civilian MRE equivalent brand
*Mil-Spec* and humanitarian pouch meals.  Good information on military
and civilian MRE's on their site.  No retail sales.


          G.2.2  FOOD PRESERVATION DEALERS AND SUPPLIERS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

Canning, meat curing, food drying, spices, pickling, cultured milk
products, soybean products, etc.

ALLIED-KENCO SALES
26 Lyerly St.
Houston, Texas   77022
(800) 356-5189
(713) 691-2935
(713) 691-3250 fax
http://www.alliedkenco.com
E-mail: alliedkenco@msn.com

A butcher supply house specializing in sausage and jerky making supplies
and equipment.  Seasoning, sausage casings, meat grinders, sausage
stuffers, commercial vacuum sealing machines and more.

CON YEAGER SPICE COMPANY
144 Magill Rd
Zelienople, PA   16063
(800) 222-2460
(412) 452-6171
http://www.nauticom.net/w-pa/yeager.htm
E-mail:  bkrever@fyi.net

Meat curing, smoking, herbs and spices.  Bulk sales.

COOKBOOK SHOPPE, THE
Vickie Tate
302 East 200 North
Manti, Utah 84642
(801) 835-8283

Home Storage & Preparedness Books including Cooking With Home Storage.

CUMBERLAND GENERAL STORE
#1 Highway 68
Crossville, TN   38555
(800) 334-4640
(931) 456-1211 fax
http://www.cumberlandgeneral.com

The rival to Lehman's Hardware.  A good deal of food preservation and
storage equipment with the emphasis on non-modern gear.  Can sealers,
grain mills, water pumps and a great deal of other non-electrically
powered equipment.

DOUBLE SPRINGS HOMEBREW SUPPLY
4697 Double Springs Rd.
Valley Springs, CA  95252
(888) 499-2739
(209) 754-4888
http://www.doublesprings.com/
E-mail:  homebrew@GOLDRUSH.com

Home brewing and vintning supplies of all sorts.  May have oxygen
absorbers.  Preservative chemicals.  Many books, including vinegar
making.  Vinegar mothers.  A lot of equipment.

GEM CULTURES
30301 Sherwood Rd.
Ft Bragg, CA  95437
(707) 964-2922 (mornings are best time to call, Pacific time)

Fermented food starter cultures such as natto, tempeh, amazake, miso,
shoyu, tamari, koji, miso, sourdough and other bread leavens (barm,
etc.), fil mjolk, viili, and kefir grains.  Also natural nigari
(bitterns) and calcium sulfate (gypsum) as well as a form box for tofu
making.

HOME CANNING SUPPLY & SPECIALTIES
P. O. Box 1158
(1815 LaBraya St.)
Ramona, CA 92065
(619) 788-0520 (phone)
(619) 789-4745 (fax)
(800) 354-4070 (orders only)

Home canning and food preservation supplies such as bulk pectin. They
offer regular pectin, low-methoxyl pectin without preservatives, and
low-meth pectin with preservatives.

KOCH SUPPLIES
1411 West 29th St
Kansas City, Missouri   64108
(800) 456-5624
(816) 753-2150
(816) 561-3286 fax
http://www.kochsupplies.com
E-mail:  koch@kochsupplies.com

Primarily wholesale dealer in meat curing, smoking and sausage making
supplies.

LEHMAN'S HARDWARE
P.O. Box 41
Kidron, OH   44636
(330) 857-5757
http://lehmans.com
E-mail:  getinfo@lehmans.com

Not a great deal of food, but a lot of food related equipment, grain
mills, can sealers, water pumps, butchering, cheese making, dehydrators,
pitters, peelers, etc.  Most of it non-electric. Many books.  Free
shipping on many orders.

PENZEYS, LTD. SPICE HOUSE
P.O.Box 933
Muskego,  WI  53150-0933
(414) 679-7207 voice
(414) 679-7878 fax
http://www.penzeys.com/
E-mail:  info@penzeys.com

Herb and spice supply house.  Excellent prices on bulk quantities of
herbs and spices.  Good quality and variety.

SAUSAGE MAKER, THE
1500 Clinton St
Building 123
Buffalo, NY 14207-2875
(716) 824-6510 voice

Mail order sausage making, meat curing and smoking supplies, training
videos, equipment, etc

STUFFERS SUPPLY COMPANY
22958 Fraser Highway
Langley, B.C.  V2Z 2T9
(604) 534 7374
(604) 534 3089 fax
http://www.harb.net/stuffers
E-mail: bleathem@stuffers.com

A Canadian source of sausage making and meat curing supplies.


          G.2.3.  FOOD STORAGE AND PRESERVATION EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURERS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

BERLIN PACKAGING
National Customer Service Center
435 East Algonquin Rd
Arlington Heights, IL  60055
(also regional sites, addresses on web site)
(800) 423-7546
http://www.berlinpackaging.com
E-mail:  info@berlinpackaging.com

Food grade packaging and containers, primarily plastic, but also metal
and glass.  They claim no order is too small.

CONSOLIDATED PLASTICS
8181 Darrow Rd
Twinsburg, OH   44087
(800) 362-1000
(216) 425-3900
(216) 425-3333 fax

FDA approved plastic food storage containers, food grade plastic bags,
screw off bucket lids and more.  Ask for their Rubbermaid,
laboratory/industrial catalogs and bags/packaging/shipping catalogs.

COUNTRY LIVING PRODUCTS
14727 56th Avenue NW
Stanwood, Washington 98292
                            
Manufacturer of the Country Living grain mill.

DESICCARE, INC
East coast facility           West coast facility
211 Industrial Dr             10600 Shoemaker Ave, Bldg C
Richland, MS   39218          Santa Fe Springs, CA   90670-4026
(888) 932-0405                (800) 446-6650
(601) 932-0442 fax            (562) 903-2272
http://dessicare.com/homeprod.htm
E-mail: desiccant@desiccare.com

Retail sales of pre-packaged and bulk desiccants.

DRYING PANTRY, THE
9756 South Kristin Drive
Sandy, Utah 84070
(801) 571-9115

A non-electric kitchen food dryer.  Uses naturally occurring heat,
either from the sun or your homes heating system.  Hangs from a hook to
save counter space.  It can also serves as a sprouter.

FREUND CAN COMPANY
155 West 84th St
Chicago, IL   60620-1298
(773) 224-4230 ext 179
(773) 224-8812 fax
http://www.freundcan.com

Metal, glass and plastic containers.  Can sealers of several sorts.
Claims will sell any quantity.

GLITCHPROOF.COM
3171 Green Valley Rd #11
Birmingham, AL 35243
(205) 302-0706
(205) 969-9356
http://www.glitchproof.com
E-mail:  info@glitchproof.com

No food, but carries kits and products for do-it-yourself food storage.
Buckets, lids, oxygen absorbers, Mylar and poly liner bags, 55 gallon
food-safe drum liners, and other packaging items.

LIFE SPROUTS
Post Office Box 150
Paradise, Utah 84328-0150
(800) 241-1516

Manufactures the Sprout Master Sprouter and carries organic sprouting
seeds.  Also markets recipe books, food storage.

UNITED STATES PLASTICS
1390 Neubrecht Rd
Lima, OH   45801
(800) 537-9724
(419) 228-5034 fax
http://www.usplastic.com
E-mail:  usp@usplastics.com

FDA approved plastic food storage containers, food grade plastic bags,
screw off bucket lids and more.

WELLS CAN COMPANY, LTD.
8705 Government St
Burnaby, British Columbia V3N 4G9 Canada
(604) 420-0959
(604) 420-0975 fax
http://www.cobra-net/wellscan/canning.html
E-mail: wellscan@lightspeed.bc.ca

A Canadian manufacturer of pressure canners & cookers, can sealers,
metal cans, canning jars, plastic and metal buckets and vacuum sealers.
Retail sales.


          G.2.4  DIATOMACEOUS EARTH MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

ALL GONE!
Phone: 800-373-3423
E-mail allgone1@vero.com

Diatomaceous earth

DIATECT CORPORATION
c/o Gordon Dill 410 E. 48th St Holland, MI 49423

Diatomaceous earth

FOSSIL SHELL SUPPLY COMPANY
P.O. Box 50225 Amarillo TX 79159
(800) 370-9920
(806) 355-4236 voice
(806) 351-0777 fax
http://www.webtex.com/webtex/com/fssc /
E-mail jandj@arn.net

Diatomaceous earth

NECESSARY ORGANICS, INC
One Nature's Way
New Castle, VA   24127-0305

Concern brand diatomaceous earth.  This is the brand I've been buying.

PLANET NATURAL
1612 Gold Ave
P.O. Box 3146
Bozeman, MT   59772
(800) 289-6656
(406) 587-0223 fax
http://www.webcom/ecostore/index.html
E-mail:  ecostore@webcom.com

A very green dealer.  The DE is in the Soaps, Oils and More directory.


          G.2.5  STORAGE FOOD RETAIL DEALERS 
     [Back to beginning of Table of Contents]

AMERICAN FREEDOM NETWORK, THE
P.O. Box 1750
Johnstown, CO   80534
(800) 205-6245 orders
http://www.amerifree.com/index.htm
E-mail: comments@amerifree.com

Mainstay Emergency Ration bars, Country Living grain mill, Katadyn water
filters.  Pre-packaged storage foods, including organic.

B&A PRODUCTS
Rt 1 Box 100
Bunch, OK  74931-9705
(918) 696-5998
(918) 696-5999 fax
http://www.baproducts.com
E-mail:  Byron@baproducts.com

Water filters, Ready Reserve, Alpineaire foods and Heater Meals.

BACK TO BASICS (KATHLEEN LAMONT)
P.O. Box 1138
Waynesville, NC   28786
(704) 452-2866
http://www.dnet.net/~basics
E-mail:  basics@dnet.net

Many good books, food dehydrator, Tilia vacuum sealer, video taped food
storage courses.  Lamont lectures at some preparedness expos.

BEST PRICES STORABLE FOODS by Bruce Hopkins
1737 Cascade St
Mesquite (Dallas) Texas   75149
(972) 288-0262 in the p.m.
(972) 288-4610
(214) 742-7777 weekdays in the a.m.
http://web2.airmail.net/foodstr2/
E-mail:  foodstr2@airmail.net

Pre-packaged dehydrated foods, bulk foods, grains, legumes, and grain
mills.  Mylar bags, oxygen absorbers, containers and DE. Mountain House
freeze dried foods.  Organic foods.

COUNTRYSIDE GRANARY
P.O. Box 701
Hull, Iowa   51239
(888) 435-3948
(712) 439-1861
Web site & E-mail coming.

Grains, lequmes, dry milk and other bulk foods in bags and 6 gallon
SuperPails.  Sprouting seeds.  Diatomaceous earth, oxygen absorbers and
food-grade 55 gallon drums.

CSIN
P.O. Box 538
Libby, MT   59923
(406) 293-8121 9a.m.-9p.m. MST
http://www.kootenet.net/csin/index.htm
E-mail:  CSIN@kootenet.net

Grain mills, bulk and nitrogen packed (buckets & cans) grains, legumes,
dehydrated and freeze dried foods, sprouting seeds. Oxygen absorbers and
Mylar bags.  $100 minimum order.

EMERGENCY ESSENTIALS
National Catalog Sales Office
165 S. Mountain Way Drive
Orem, Utah 84058-5119
(801) 222-9596
(800) 999-1863 Toll Free Order Line
http://www.beprepared.com
E-mail: webmaster@beprepared.com

A major preparedness retailer.  Storage foods of all types, MRE's, water
purifiers, storage containers, grain mills and other food equipment.
Excellent costs on shipping.  Free preparedness software.

EMERGENCY FOOD STORAGE
322 Buckingham
Prescott, AZ   86303
(800) 414-9324
http://www.northlink.com/~gwiatt
E-mail:  permapak@usa.net

A PermaPak foods distributor, pre-packaged food plans.

EPICENTER, THE (EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS INFORMATION CENTER)
6523 California Ave SW, #161
Seattle, WA 98136
(206) 937-5658 voice/fax
http://TheEpicenter.com
e-mail: bjnelson@TheEpicenter.com

Heater Meals, Datrex ration bars and MREs.  Water filters.

FC SURPLUS
1712 Dundas St. E.
London, Ontario   N5W 3E1 Canada
(519) 451-0246 voice & fax
(519) 451-9341 fax, if above line is busy.
http://www.fcsurplus.com/mltryfd.htm
E-mail:  question@fcsurplus.com

Canadian "Freddy Chef" MREs and other surplus related items, primarily
Canadian or British.

HAPPY HOVEL FOODS
P.O. Box 781
Yelm, WA 98597
(800) 637-7772
(360) 458-4445
(360) 458-7977 fax
http://www.wwmagic.com/haphov
e-mail: haphov@seanet.com

Pre-packaged foods, bulk grains, legumes and dehydrated foods. MRE's,
freeze dried foods, grain mills.

HOMESTEAD PRODUCTS
Contact via phone or e-mail for postal address
(541) 688-9263
(541) 688-9775 fax
http://www.teleport.com/~dany/mill
E-mail:  dany@teleport.com

Several grain mills, Katadyn water filters and Aladdin lamps.

J&K ENTERPRISES
519 Griffith Ave
Terrell, TX  75160
http://www.hischaracter.com/foods.htm
E-mail:  jseitz@hischaracter.com

Pre-packaged storage foods, bulk grains, legumes, dehydrated foods
organics, Alpineaire, sprouting seeds.  Oxygen absorbers, grain mills.

JOSEPH PROJECT, THE
P.O. Box 6701
Lubbock, TX   7493-6701
No phone listed.
http://corporate.odyssey1.net/josephproject/
E-mail:  JosephProject@odsy.net

Bulk dehydrated foods.

LAKERIDGE FOOD STORAGE
896 E. 640 N.
Orem, Utah   84097
(801) 221-8207 fax
(800) 336-7127
http://www.shopsite.com/lfs
E-mail: lfsfood@ix.netcom.com

Pre-packaged long term storage foods, bulk grains, legumes, organic
foods, sprouting seeds, dehydrated foods and some freeze-dried.  Grain
mills.

LIVE OAK FARMS
(877) 878-4867
(405) 794-7365
The site did not list a postal address
http://www.universalweb.com/food/index.htm
E-mail: ron@universalweb.com

Pre-packaged foods, bulk foods, MRE's, sprouting seeds.  Grain mills and
other equipment.

MAJOR SURPLUS
435 W. Alondra Boulevard
Gardena, California 90248
(800) 441-8855
(310) 324-6909 fax
http://majorsurplusnsurival.com
E-mail:  info@majorsurplusnsurvival.com

MRE's and some food/water storage containers.

MEYERS CUSTOM SUPPLY
P.O.Box 212
Cassel, CA   96016
(800) 451-6105
(530) 335-4320
http://www.C-zone.net/meyerscs/mcs
E-mail:  mcs@C-zone.net

Alpineaire foods, civilian MREs.

MILLENNIUM FOOD STORES
726 North 1890 West #34
P.O. Box 50597
Provo, UT   84605
(800) 500-9893
(801) 375-2264
(801) 356-1523 fax
E-Mail:  food@itsnet.com
http://www.millenniumfoods.com

Dehydrated & freeze-dried foods in #10 cans, and Mylar lined buckets.
Some bulk foods.

NITRO-PAK PREPAREDNESS CENTER
151 N. Main Street
Heber City, Utah 84032
(800) 866-4876
(888) 648-7672 toll free fax
http://www.nitro-pak.com (It's been under construction for a long while)
E-mail:  nitropak@shadowlink.net

Pre-packaged and bulk dehydrated, freeze-dried, storage foods. Datrex
and Mainstay ration bars.  Mountain House and Alpineaire foods and
civilian MREs.  Water storage containers and filters. Grain mills, #10
can sealer.  Oxygen absorbers and Mylar bags..

PONDEROSA SPORTS & MERCANTILE, INC.
6854 Highway 55
Horseshoe Bend, Idaho   83629
(208) 793-3121
(208) 793-3133 fax
E-mail:  ponder@micron.net

Preparedness food, equipment and supplies. MRE's, Mountain House freeze
dried foods, Heatermeals, BFM (Balanced Food Mix),  26 page catalog,
send $2.

PRODUCT SOURCE INTERNATIONAL
255 East 400 South, Ste 150
Salt Lake City, Utah   84111
(801) 531-8996 voice
(801) 328-1243 fax
http://www.downtown-web.com/psi
E-mail: psiusa@aros.net

Pre-packaged and bulk long term storage foods, books, grain mills,
containers (empty #10 cans for home use).  Oxygen absorbers (in
emergency preparedness section).

PROVISIONS 2000, INC
2271 W 12th Lane
Yuma, AZ   85364
(520) 329-7158
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/prov2000/main.htm
E-mail: prov2000@sprynet.com

Alpineaire gourmet reserves & Canadian military MREs.

SAFE TREK
90 Safe Trek Place
Bozeman, MT   59718
(406) 587-5571
(406) 586-4842 fax
(800) 424-7870
http://www.safetrek.com
E-mail: Sales@avicom.net

Alpineaire pre-packaged foods, their own cannery line as well. Grain
mills, books,  Oxygen absorbers.

SECURE FUTURE
640 Bailey Rd, #128
Pittsburgh, CA   94565
http://www.securefuture.com
E-mail: questions@securefuture.com

N2 packed dehydrated foods (Ready Reserve), Pre-packaged food plans,
grain mills.

SHERRY'S STOREHOUSE
P.O. Box 1507
Merlin, OR 97532
(541) 471-7859 days
(541) 660-8267 evenings
(800) 662-0137 fax
http://www.homezen.com/sherstor/sherstor.html
E-mail:  none listed.

Grains, legumes, dehydrated, freeze dried, organic bulk and nitrogen
packed foods (buckets and cans), sprouting seeds, Mainstay ration bars.
Oxygen absorbers, Mylar bags, #10 cans and grain mills.

SOUTH SUMMIT CORPORATION
P.O. Box 851293
Richardson, TX   75085
(972) 495-5270 voice
(972) 495-9579 fax
http://www.southsummit.com
E-mail: southsummit@topher.net

Provident Pantry long term storage foods, MRE's, water storage, filters
and containers, ration bars, freeze dried foods (multiple
manufacturer's), plastic food storage buckets.

STOREHOUSE PRODUCTS
Post Office Box 690021
San Antonio Texas 78269
(210) 690-7632
http://www.dcci.com/DCCI/storehouse.html
E-mail:  deyer@dcci.com

A Texas distributor providing a complete line of dehydrated foods, grain
mills, water purification systems. Call or write for a free catalogue.

SURVIVAL CENTER, THE
19223 Cook Road
P.O. Box 234
McKenna, Washington 98558
(360) 458-6778 voice
(360) 458-6868 fax
(800) 321-2900 orders only
http://www.zyz.com/survivalcenter
E-mail: sales@survivalcenter.com

A lot of books, not all of them useful.  Pre-packaged food plans.
Mountains House freeze dried foods in pouches and cans.  MRE's. Grain
mills. For catalog send $2.00.

WHEAT MONTANA FARMS & BAKERY
10778 Hwy 287
Three Forks, MT   59752
(406) 285-3614
(406) 285-3749 fax
(800) 535-2798 (small quantity UPS orders)
http://www.wheatmt.com

Hard red wheat, hard white wheat, organic wheat, other bulk and packaged
grains, pinto beans.  Empty buckets and lids.  Small qty and bulk flours
as well.

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Please direct orders, comments, questions, contributions and criticisms
to:  athagan@sprintmail.com

                          Postal mail address:
                               A.T. Hagan
                            P.O. Box 140008
                      Gainesville, Fl   32614-0008